MilesFox

i have seen one in a brat that had an obious weld mark in the middle as if it had been narrowed. but i couldnt tell you what it came from

if i remember right a colder plug is called colder because it will dissipate its heat to the head, wheras a hot plug will not. its has to do with heat conductivity, not the spark...... otherwise a plug that is not of the "cold" variety may act as a 'hot spot' for preignition. what is your gap at now? you would want to stay oe spec if you have no ignition mods, but if you got the coil and all that you could go up to .050 would your timing need to be advanced, rather than retarded? if you retard the ignition it will make the motor lug, and advancing will make it idle up........

the float on the cap may be stuck, or the plug might be loose enough to break the circuit......its like the float in the back of the toilet how it works, but with wires.................

the cracks end at the valve guide. at least the seat is still in place. the only soob heads i have seen that were ACTUALLY bad, the valve seat had come out and wedged the valve open. i was told that little cracks bt the spark plug hole are expected, and there is a tiny one at the webbing of the exhaust port. OH WELL.....i put the heads on anyway, well at least if they work then we wont need to throw out heads with odd cracks! we'll see if it works........................................................ what does anyone else know? OH YEAH, i forgot to mention these are ea82 heads

i wonder if anyone can dig up the "You Know You're Obsessed wit Subarus" thread from the old board a while back?. i think someone cut and paste it to a webpage? it had some 300 wone-liners, kind of like Miles FoxWorthy!

of course it wont show up at napa if they look up soobs. so does anyone know of the coldest thermostat that will fit in a soob, what make/year of another car to order for, or part number its for my turbo

did you have the battery cable off? maybe the positive terminal is loose. power will restore with a jiggle, but will loose power as soon as you try to start, uless, of cours, you tighten it up all the yellow wires to the coil are on the negative terminal, and the balck wire with the white stripe, and anything with a red contact is the positive side. and the little capacitor radio noise supressor goes to the positive coil terminal

have you ever had the center console apart, the lead from the switch plugs in down there, might as well take a look....

from what i saw was the xt had some odd cable driven window syste, wheras all the other soob windows were of the "scissor" type. the plastic cable retainers broke off, so the cable just flexes around rather than pull anything.

the one extra fuel line on the driver side(actually its a vent line) will connect to the little dooker that comes up off the framerail from under the master cylinder. there will be a little skinny fyosser off the passenger strut tower that controls your heater controls and cruise. there will be 2 lines off near of the turbo, loop those together, those were for the boost gauge and fuel cut off. hope that helps. o got a spfi with carb motor down in my turbo wagon, those hosed just hang there, so if the turbo motor is in an spfi, the other ends of the same hose would just hang there! hope that helps, i will pe putting my turbo motor together this weekend with PORTED heads! are there any specific lines on the intake doing loop-de-loops, or is that all left alone? if i have to i can bring my spare manifold with me to the library! my motor is an 87 gl-10, i helped to rebuild an 87 gl-10, and pulled the motor from an 86 xt and put it back in. if that will help.....

i got the valves out of my turbo heads. i know its normal to have cracks between the valves, bu thow far down? the cracks go down to the valve guides. i dont think there are any oil passaged there. i think there is a small one towards the bottom of the exhaust pfr, but it is onlt about a half inch long and ends. there is a tiny 1/8 inch crack near the spark plug hole on one of the cc's there are no cracks on top the head or the sides. i took the time to port them, i'm gonna use them anyway, i just want to know what to expect! the motor has both gaskets blown when i got it, only one cyl was sealed up. hopefully it lost too much compression and quit running before it let the heads get too hot

i would have had the brakes done on the xt, but jim drove the turbo wagon to work, with the rotors in the back. but hey, nothing like a 3-day weekend full of soobs! now ALL of jim's soobs RUN AND DRIVE. only thing left is carb issues on the brat, and the title to the XT

why would you replace your driveshaft? if you are swapping in another 5spd, or dual range, it will fit. remove the turbo shroud and unbolt the downpipe from the back of the motor, the side of the tranny, and the rear of the tranny, and from the rest of the exhaust. if you have i ahoist you can pull the motor out first, do seals and belts or whatever, and lower the tranny into the car from under the hood...... drop the tranny with its crossmember, just unbolt the crossmember from the car, still attatched to the tranny. you can pull the tranny with all the shift linkage still attatched jack the car up on its side, it will give you more room to mess with the driveshaft, exhaust, and of course the tranny. that way the tranny bellhousing will clear the underside of the car. you may have to swing the rump roast end of the tranny around to the side ogf the car, and lift up on it so the bell housing will come out from under the framerail. remove the 3 bolts that hold the pitch bar mount before you drop the trans, and remove the starter so it will clear the firewall drain all the gear oil out before pulling the driveshaft, as the rear seal will leak out all over the floor, and you dont want to lay in a mess! when you go back tohether, put the starter in last--that way you can tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter! when pulling the axles off the trans, or putting them back on, simmply move the tranny over to one side to do each axle, but this is if the motor is out. i highly recommend pulling the motor first, it will make the job WAY easier, and you can service at least the rear crank seal while youre at it! if you undo the motor mounts and jack up the tranny, you can get to the bottom stud's nuts better. if you are going to leave the motor in the car, unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack the motor up a few inches, so the tranny will slide off the back without hanging up on the crossmember. you will want to leave the motor up to put it back on

an idea i had in mind would be ti use the turbo pistons, and then make up a twin turbo system using stock ea82 turbos. so if 1 turbo can run 4 cylinders, then a turbo for 3 cylinders each would act as a boost without mods! and then use the xt6 stock fuel system, and tweak the timing a but....................................................

the 2wd and 4wd use the same strut cap, but its oriented one way or the other depending on 2wd or 4wd

if you happen to roll through indiana, give me a hollar! i assume you would take interstate 65 south from chicago. i live on the other side of indiana, but you can take interstate 69 south to kentucky. butler is on us6 just 3 miles from ohio line email me if you are going that way.

if its the vented rotor you are trying to replace a solid rotor, yes, it will fit, BUT, you will have to use the calipers from the 83-84(vented rotor) but solid rotors will fit ina vented rotor's caliper with no conversion. if your car is already vented rotors you will have no problems

i'll pull some revs up to 5000 rpms for all the highschool kids at the basketball court at the library. then this one dude in a 3.1 grand am revs his motor, thinking his factory dual exhaust is the dook. then i take the rpms up to 7000 rpms and hold it there! then the kid looks at me like he is confused, revs his motor a few times trying to match me---allthewhile i am purring at 7000. and then he drives off with a rod knock

i got it all put back togeter, i had jim's wife pat take me to autozone in it, and the speedo was reading like it always have. the ecs never came on, even tough i havent reset it. i cleaned up the interior and polished all the plastic. jim will be a very happy man when he gets home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah, subarus are like legos. i know from what i have tried. you can use the mid pipe of ANY 2wd soob, stick or auto, wagon,sedan, or 3door! you can also use a ANY 4wd pipe on a 2wd, but not the other way around

your battery may be shot. i ahve seen cars that will run with a jump start, run for an hour, and if you turn it off for a few minutes, it will not crank. i would check out or replace the battery to start with. if the alt is reading 14 volts then its good. take your ride to autozone, they have charging system diagnostics for free. if anything is bad, they will tell you, in hopes that they can sell you a replacement!

if the 4wd light doesnt come on, check the electrical connections on the top of the tranny.... also, its possible the bulb in the dash may be burnt out. my 87gl-10 turbo is a 5spd, and someties the 4wd indicator doesnt come on or go off right away. but mine is a stick, not an auto. my 2 cents

thanx for the info, Skip! I believe i found the problem....I pulled the instrument cluster to find the speedo dome 6 inches behind it. i got under the hood and found a heater hose ran under the speedo; Jim installed a coolant flush kit, and had a little trouble removing one of the hoses. so in his efforts he must have tugged on the speedo cable causing it to come off the back of the instrument cluster. i know it just didnt fall off, and if work was done to the hose, then there you go! I'll get it put together and report my findings!!! i feel i must be extra careful on jim's ride, it is his pride and joy, but i am glad he trusts me to work on it while he is at work. he'll be happy to see it working by the time he gets home!!!

worry about just the cost of cigarettes! i smoke, but sometimes i get tired of it to the point i dont want to smoke anymore.

it can still be done, using the ea82t or any other motor with turbo heads and intake, wiring harness. firs off you will have to set upt he brat for an ea82 motor. then you will have to get the whole wiring harness, mount the airbox (it should fit in the same manner as an ea81t's box) its very important that you know all that's involved and know what to expect, and have everything you need before you get involvrd. if you get all the stuff you need, here is what i suggest: install your turbo wiring harness and leave your existing motor alone until the wiring hrness is in. that way you can still drive it like it is, intil it is finally ready to drop-in the turbo motor!!! you should be able to round up a few board members in your locale to coach you through the process.