SUBARU3

Who would be interested in sharing ownership, credit, the building and maintaining of my existing website "Vintage Subaru Restoration"?? I also own www.vintagesubaru.com. I have had a site, (below), since 1997, but it needs freshened up. That site has multiple pages. I don't have the time or the "site-building" expertise to make what I want. I can work with it, but I'm in a learning curve. If I could share the work with someone, that would be cool! I feel that Gen 1s NEED a better presence on the web. So if any webmasters with interest's in Gen 1s, care to join me in making a GREAT site.....contact me. Todd

Actually, 1980 was NOT the EA81 with dual range. That was only offered in 1981. There is a 1981 project one here in Dallas for sale. Contact: Calebz on the board. I get 28-32 in mixed driving and 35 on the highway with my 80 BRAT. Completely STOCK with stock electronic ignition and all kept WELL maintained. Mobil 1 added 2 miles per gallon. Todd

I'll take a 1600 set too. Let me know! Thanks! Todd

Count on it being as favorible as the EJ 22. It's a great engine! Todd

Gosh, will the BRAT just go to the salvage yard? I'll bet someone could use parts and provide you with some $$ for the RX!! I could use a few things myself! Todd

Gosh, I'm so glad she is OK. The BRAT can be replaced , she cannot! That impact looks like alot of speed was involved.....I hope the other driver was OK too. At any rate, she can salvage alot of parts. If she want's to look at another gen 1, I'm close in TX and may have some options for her. Todd

I have a late 95 Impreza 2.2 AWD L that is OBD2. Has the plug in the dash and have pulled codes. I also have a 95 Impreza 1.8 L that is OBD1. (No plug) Guess some had it and some didn't Todd

Keep me posted!!! Thanks! Todd

Wow!! I'm impressed. Let me know if I can help out! I have quite a few parts, so send me your list. There are NEW exhausts available: $50 email Fgansettauto@aol.com GREAT guy to deal with too. I'm in agreement with Paul though....restore this, dont modify, unless it's simple things. An EA71 would be a better and easier engine swap. (No head gasket issues)

I'm interested in parts too.... GL/4 spoke steering wheel, interior door handle plastic cups, (if not all cracked) Tach instrument cluster. More too...I just have to think! The interior looks rough on them , but I sure there are tons of useful parts!!! Todd

The EJ18 and the EJ22 are essentially the same engine. I would see no reason why one would be "more reliable" than the other. I have both and both are comparable. Todd

Everybody, this post has got a little too inflamed. Please stop the anger. Loyale91: I edited your post to remove that last statement. It was a bit overboard and I think you conveyed your thoughts adequately in what is remaining. LuckyPistol also did not say "negro", he said "nego". One letter can make a big difference. The spirit of his statement was not racial. LuckyPistol: I spelled out the word "nego" in your post. I am sorry about your situation with your car. This board is full of experienced Subaru owners, but you are in the "drivers seat" with respect to your car. Weigh and measure all advice and use accordingly. Regards, Todd

The EJ-18 was not just in base models. I have a 95 "L" 5 speed with this engine. Todd

The exhausts we are looking at are NOS. They almost look like SUBARU parts. They are complete with heat shields and the proper hangers. The 78 went from the Y into a "premuffler/resonator" and then the muffler /tailpipe. It is an odd configuration with a top entering muffler and a side outlet. I also will be able to get Gen 1 4WD wagon/2WDwagon/2WD coupe and sedan. Paul and I will be discussing this. Hang tight. Here is a sample of what we will be acquiring in multiple #s Todd

All of the below are Total synthetic. I have used it in all of the Gen ones I have had for 20 years. Never an issue, just better protection and performance. Like I said in a previous post....Why do you think FAA regs require only the use of a full synthetic in aviation engines???????????? Todd

Mobil1 exclusively here too. (Including the lawnmower) Synthetics are the ONLY type of oil allowed by the FAA in aviation engines too. Reason: ....conventional oils fail and at 35000 feet, you can't just pull off the road! That speaks pretty loudly. Todd

I have a few in TX to do too. Todd

Thanks Shawn. I know the Gen 2s are easier to find than Gen 1s. (New that is) Todd

If anybody out there has a loose heater core from a Gen 2 BRAT/car, I need the measurements of the Length/Hight/width. I'm curious if I can utilize the Gen 2 in a Gen 1??? Thanks Todd

Thats my feeling too. I'm getting it!

Paul: Congrats.... Now go to bed, I see you are still up at 0100!! Todd

Ok, I'm buying this trans from a wrecking yard. (It's being shipped). They say the "FE 5 speed" from 78, is different than the 78 "regular 5 speed"?? I know the gear ratios were a bit steeper, but the case is the same....right?? I swear I have installed those in wagons before, but I forgot. HELP!! Thanks, Todd

Are you are talking Gen 1s?? The white plastic thing on the drivers dise of the heater box? This piece always breaks when the heater control valve seizes up, from continued movement of the temp selector. I have NEVER found a good one in a junkyard and I have picked at many , many, many gen 1s! It's: Subaru # 674031810 $13.03 at Subaruparts.com You will need a heater valve too I bet. Todd

The heater stopcock on the heater control unit may be frozen in the "off" or "near off" position. (The stopcock is near the gas pedal.) If the heater hoses are not hot, then I would suspect this. Almost always, the heater valve jams, but the driver keeps using the temp control on the dash. This in turn, breaks the white, plastic control lever, that connects to the heater valve and you then have more problems. Check the heater valve operation,as you slide the temp lever left to right and back again. If it doesn't move, try to lube up the pivot points and move it with your fingers. If it doesn't, its either the plastic lever on the side of the heater box is broken, your valve is bad, or most likely BOTH are bad. Remove the hoses from the valve and connect directly to the core. You might need some new hoses, one being a 45* angled hose, maybe two. Connect a shut off valve inline in the "in" heater hose. This can be manually shut off , as needed, till you repair your valve inside the car. (Here's some options) HEATER SHUT OFF VALVE SCANT 20500/ FACTORY AIR PRODUCTS 84706/ FACTORY AIR # 74627 ( SLIDE BAR TYPE) for 68-74 ford truck (570-210/570-215) The heater valve oftens pops up on eBay. The lever you WILL need I bet. It's Subaru # 674031810 $13.03 at Subaruparts.com Mary; Feel free to call me, as I see you have a lot of concerns. I can address many issues quickly on the phone. Todd

Mary: You can easily convert your wheel to black: Gen one steering wheel refurbishment. Remove wheel and pad. Get one can of Red Oxide primer. Get one can of clear, "satin" top coat. (High gloss if you are careful) Get 1 can Mar-hyde or like brand, high quality, black vinyl paint. Remove "horn" and "Subaru" emblem from steering wheel. Remove oil from pad by washing with hot, soappy water, followed by wiping mulitiple times with alcohol. Allow to dry WELL!! Paint pad with VERY light, mulitple coats of vinyl paint. Allow to dry in between coats. Do not top coat with clear!! Replace horn emblems with a drop of glue and use emblem, double faced tape for the Subaru emblem. Put aside till the end. Wet sand the back and all areas to be painted on the steering wheel with 320, followed by 400 grit wet paper. Don't sand the wheel itself, or any area that has a "texture". (Usually the very front, near the rim.) Use lot's of hot H2O. Do it at the sink. Smooth all imperfections. Prep and clean WELL with soap and water, followed by alcohol, using a clean lint free towel. Allow to dry well!! Spray wheel with a few coats of red oxide. Allow to dry WELL!! (Overnight) Paint wheel with VERY light, mulitple coats of vinyl paint. Allow to dry in between coats. Allow to dry WELL, (overnight) Top coat with protective clear. (2 coats.) You do not have to paint the rim, just get all the areas where the rim connects to the wheel. After a day or 2 of drying. The final task................ You wrap the wheel with a "LACE ON","SEW ON", high quality, leather steering cover. This gives the wheel a new grip, fanstatic look and covers's any cracks or wear areas. If you have big crack, wrap it tightly with string, to fill the crack. I have done this to a few wheel and they are GREAT! Look new!! Any black wheel you find from the 70s, is going to need refurbished anyway. I do this to wheel, even if I'm keeping the same color. This is not hard, just the sewing of the cover!!!! Todd