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Everything posted by SUBARU3
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Help wiring a Tach in a 78 Brat
SUBARU3 replied to subieman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There should be a short yellow lead on the gauge cluster. It is screwd onto the cluster. You can add one if needed. It's in the upper right rear of the cluster, as you look at the cluster from the front Todd -
Help wiring a Tach in a 78 Brat
SUBARU3 replied to subieman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There should be a yellow wire taped in the gauge wiring harness. (You may have to look for it) 75% of all Gen 1s have it. You may be in the 25% that don't. That wire, if found, fits on the loose lead on the back of the cluster. If not present, just run a wire to the + terminal of the coil, from that lead on the back of the cluster. Todd -
I'd take the left tail-light. Be sure metal divider, that fits between the turn and brake light is under the lens. I'd also be interested in the metal/rubber divider, between the rear bumper and the body. Also, the passenger side tin, splash shield, under the radiator. It fastens to the radiator support and the wheel apron with just a few bolts. Todd
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81 brat- fuses and wires get hot!
SUBARU3 replied to snowstormer's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
This was a problem on all Gen 1/ Stage 2 cars. There was a recall back then to address this. They added in a new heavier fuse. If you look at most Gen 1's fuse block wiring, you will find the plastic to be either melted somewhat, or REALLY melted. Try pinching together the small cips that hold the fuse and reinsert it. Remember, resistance generates heat. Todd -
Stage 2 Gen 1 wagon rear, hatch, glass rubber update
SUBARU3 replied to SUBARU3's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thought I'd bump this up for those looking for front glass rubber. Todd -
ANOTHER Stage 1 question
SUBARU3 replied to bajavwnsoobnut's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Anybody else know of applications from other vehicles for older Subis? Todd -
ANOTHER Stage 1 question
SUBARU3 replied to bajavwnsoobnut's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
The rubber for the back glass is the VW beetle, 72-77. I think 78 and 79 were all convertibles. The later beetles had bigger back glass. All the newer Mexican beetles have the same bigger glass too. Like I said, I have that rubber on my 78 wagon rear hatch glass and it works fine! Get the CAL look. Also, the front SUBARU hood emblem is available NEW, the same size and the same "font", in CHROME! This emblem was on a certain early Legacy wagon tailgate. I once stubled upon one in a salvage yard and said, "hey that looks exactly like the ornament on my Gen 1s!" (I ordered 5!!) They look nice on all my cars! New is wonderful!! Subaru # 93060AA010 I have some decent original ones too if anyone is interested. OH, the VW windshield washer sprayer, that fit's in the hood, also work for Gen1s. Todd -
ANOTHER Stage 1 question
SUBARU3 replied to bajavwnsoobnut's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
The rear hatch glass is the same on Gen1, Stage 1 AND 2. The 1972-1977 VW rear glass rubber will fit. Use the "CAL look" and then you don't need the reveal molding. West Coast Metric has them. http://www.westcoastmetric.com/bug.php?Section=Window%20Rubber&stat=1 I have it in my 78 and it works fine! Looks fine too! Todd -
what paint matches valve covers?
SUBARU3 replied to subiemech85's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
"pontiac blue" engine paint for the blue color. Todd -
Equivalents for obsolete parts.
SUBARU3 replied to Scoobywagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Outstanding idea!! Todd -
I agree and side with the EA 81 too. I have 4 cars with EA 71s, essentially the same engine and they are literally indestructable! Todd
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PAG oil is not compatible with R12, however POE oil is compatable with both. I have been told the POE, (Poly ester), oil is a better choice for conversions. Todd
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I have found on EVERY Gen 1 I have, that a high idle is related to a "too tight" accelerator cable. If you loosen the screw holding the cable while the car is running, the throttle will fall forward and the idel will decrease. When tightening the screw for the accel cable, keep FIRM downward/closed position pressure on the throttle. Otherwise the cable will pull it up just enough to cause a high idle with a completely backed off idle screw. Todd
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The 1997 2.2 IS interference. This is quoted from the 1997 official SUBARU new model introduction/ Techical training manual: With photos of the new style 1997 piston it states that, " The shape of the new piston has eliminated the clearance that WAS available between the piston at TDC and a fully opened valve." This would imply to me interference. Todd
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Looks like a typical daily "winter driver" tailgate! Todd
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He wants $100...what would YOU do?
SUBARU3 replied to Scoobywagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
FE was for "fuel efficiency". It had the higher compression engine and higher ratio 5 speed. It was rated at 50 mpg on the highway. (Moose....that might be your blue dash!!) I say get it! I see tons of good stuff and you would have fun playing with it! How many miles on the FE? I thought cars in the NW didn't rust so bad! Todd -
Will dual port 1400 heads bolt onto a EA71?
SUBARU3 replied to Kostamojen's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm almost positive they won't work. The 1400 had shims and floating liners, there is a head variation from the 1600 with "cast liners". I maybe wrong. Anybody else? Todd -
Let me know what you may need too. I have quite a bit of GEN 1 BRAT and car stuff. Moosens and I are 2 of the earlier model guys. Todd http://m2.aol.com/subaru3
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He wants $100...what would YOU do?
SUBARU3 replied to Scoobywagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have to agree. One only has 2 hands and 24 hours in a day. (8 is sleeping!) I know I get diluted in my projects and then nothing gets completed. I feel like I'm just treading water! Todd -
He wants $100...what would YOU do?
SUBARU3 replied to Scoobywagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Essentially, $100 is giving them away. I 'd pay it just to get them home and see what I REALLY had! The parts are worth way more than $100, if you have the cars that can use them. Are they restorable? Todd -
Tips on passing SMOG? (78 wagon, with issues)
SUBARU3 replied to Kostamojen's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Rebuild the carb...cheap and easy. Flush the motor with gunk motor flush USE Mobil #1 15W15 Synthetic oil will not produce as high of emissions if burned. New spark plugs/wires and new coil Replace ALL vac hoses, although they can appear good, they leak from being hard. Replace the PVC valve Adjust the valves. I have never failed an emissions here and usually the cars run nearly as clean as my Imprezas!! Oh the Gen1s did not have a CATs till the 80/81 BRAT. Original CA cars "may" have had a CAT, but I'm unsure. You should be fine! Generally, EA-71s are very clean running when maintained, even with high mileage. Work from the cheapest/easiest, to the more expensive, more complex repairs. Regards, Todd -
Stage 2 Gen 1 wagon rear, hatch, glass rubber update
SUBARU3 replied to SUBARU3's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The front windshield rubber for 77-81 BRAT 76-79 wagons and sedans, (except GF) is available at www.prp.com They only had about 30 remaining, They are VERY high quality and new. The factory SUBARU ones, (when they were available), had been on the shelves for 20 years! I HIGHLY suggest gen 1 owners get one while they can!!! (And don't linger in this.) Leaks will cause rust. AND you might never be able to find one again! Todd