SUBARU3

He got the lighted overlay and them placed a brushed aluminum plate over that. I remember he had it all apart in the kitchen to do it. It does look sharp and works well too. Pretty cheap to do to. Todd (I think eBay has both of these).

I'm going to give it a shot. I'll soon have (4) 1995 15" Impreza alloys for-sale. The 91 rubbed on the rear struts. The spacers fixed that pretty quick. Actually, the 91 is my roomates airport car. (He also has an Acura TL). Here is a link to pics of his car. http://www.pbase.com/txguy/subaru_legacy Todd

Will the stock WRX 16" tires and wheels fit, without spacers, on a 95 Impreza? I know I needed the spacers on a 91 Legacy Lsi with the same wheels. Thanks!! Todd

Hey Billy...glad to see you back. Thanks for being upfront with the guys. Did you have much 70's stuff? I remember you had some stuff and we were talking, but then you stopped responding. Let me know when you get a minute. Regards, Todd http://m2.aol.com/subaru3

If you have the Calsonic compressor, it might be the bearing in the clutch. I had to replace mine. (95 Impreza) The clutch can be removed from the compressor and replaced fairly easy. I'm told the compresors will outlast 2 clutches! I would first look at the idler pulley bearing though. They fail too and get noisy. Todd

FYI As per the "official" Subaru 1997 Introduction Technical Training manual. It states this: " The new shape of the piston in the 2.2 has eliminated the clearance that was available between the piston at TDC and a fully opened valve". This increased the compression to 9.7 : 1 This fully implys that the 2.2 engine from 97 forward is also interference. Todd

Brad: The plastic ones are really cheap and available at AutoZone, Pepboys and most big auto parts stores. Be SURE to get the one for 77-81 BRAT or 77-79 Subaru cars. The one for the 80 and up cars or the 82 snd up BRATs is different. I find so many screwed up databases around anymore. Heck, I asked for a part for a 78 wagon recently and the computer asked if I had a 2.2 or a 2.5!!!! I said 2.5 for the heck of it! The part was correct though. Todd

Yes, I'm thrilled to have this automatic! I have always had standard Gen 1s.....(I have 3 others). This is a refreshing change! I'm adding a cooler and "frequently" changing fluid. Has anyone adjusted the bands? Todd

Ok..I have done many brake jobs on Gen1's, but I am stumped on this one. I have so many NEW parts, I figured I better start to use some of them! I REPLACED these items: calipers/rotors/pads/mastercylinder/rear wheel wheel cylinders/adjusters/shoes/drums. I blead at least 1 gal of fluid, (blead master),adjusted the EMR brake and I still have just a marginal pedal! It's higher and firm with EMR brake all the way on, but better than 1/2 way down and "kinda" mushy without. It doesn't " sink though and the car stops ok. Could air be still stuck somewhere? I get the feeling that it's air, but my god....I blead in proper sequence forever! Does the proportioning valve ever fail? I even put the old calipers back on and still the same pedal!!! This has me totally frustrated!! Ideas? Todd

Bump... So is band/brake adjustment a big deal? Todd

Seems sad in a way!

Hey GD...sent you a PM. Todd

So, what's involved in making sure the bands are adjusted correctly? Can this filter sceen be cleaned, or does it need to be replaced? Todd

Very interesting information! So what is the additional secret to keeping these transmissions in good working order? I do this: 1. Change complete fluid every 5K 2. Add an additional Hayden oil cooler What's involved with keeping the bands in proper adjustment? I didn't like the sound of it when you said, " reverse band chewed up". Todd

Is there a big difference between the late 70s autos and the EA 81 autos? How do the Subaru autos compare to other imports of the same vintage? Why does everybody bash the auto transmission cars/Subarus? Almost everyone I have seen in the salvage yards are WAY over 100K , most nearly 150 or more. I have 4 manuals and 2 autos and they both are special in there own way. In big city traffic, the auto is nearly a requirement. (Unless you want to do frequent clutches)! The autos are far more complex, so you have to expect failure sooner than a manual. I also find it interesting that most people don't bother to ever change the fluid, but they still last well over 100K! How long would they last WITH PROPER maintence and maybe adding a cooler. (Heat is the #1 enemy to the auto trans). Manuals are not cheap to rebuild either! Usually as much or more than an automatic! Try to rebuild a Subaru manual trans......I tried and carried the box of parts to the shop!! However, manuals are nice too, fun to drive and better control, but I also find the automatic "a refreshing change" from the manuals. When I was younger..(I'm 39), the manuals were the only thing I'd consider. I even "special" ordered a new Chevy truck once to get a manual! But I now appreciate the value of an automatic. So with all the bashing of autos I see on this board, I had to take up in their defense. They are not a bad thing, just an option for those who desire it! Just my 2 cents! Todd

I'll be calling you Sunday. Todd

Hey there: Yes..it would be a job to convert to 4WD! Also the pedal mount is not reinforced for a clutch, so that needs to be swapped from a manual Gen 1 too. Capture nuts are not present in the frame for certain parts either. The 2WD standard would be a bit easier to convert. The back bumper trim is rubber and metal. The metal is under the rubber. Hows the antenna? The could use the right rear back door shell. Don't need glass. Shell would be light and easier to pack. Any rust inside the dooe or damage. The rack can be restored. The york compresor is "square" The sanden is round. The transmission is sounding very interesting as a future backup to Pauls. Yes, the glass will fit a Gen 1 BRAT. The only Gen 1 family of glass that does not interchange is the hardtop GF. It is slightly different. Get NEW rubber for your glass before you install. You can't usually save old seals. Check PRP.com Todd We should exchange phone #s

Hmm: Well I might be interested in the trans. I'm holding out for a transmission that Paul has. I have the car ready for it as soon as it arrives. (Been so cold up his way!) How many miles on the car? I'll be using Pauls soon, but a good spare would be nice. Is the AC the Sanden compressor or the York? What condition is the muffler/tailpipe? (From aft of the center premuffler?) It should be one piece from there to the end. Original Subaru? What condition is the right rear door? I need the black metal trim piece that fit's between the rear bumper and thecar body. What condition is it in? I could use the roof rack. What condition is the rear bumper....just the steel part. Thanks for thinking of me!!! Todd

Are you going to part it? (Seems to nice to....but...) If you do, I would be interested in some items for my 78 DL, yellow, automatic, wagon with air. Todd

I know...but this rust is in a complicated area where panals come together. But more importantly....."everyone should check to make sure their rubber fit's tight in the hole and that it doesn't leak"! LOL Really...you would never know you are developing rust unless you look!! I just had never seen rust in this area before and I have seem many Gen1s. Todd

I guess this is a lesson to all......"check your hole for rust"! LOL Todd

I have friend who just acquired a 4WD 79 wagon. Texas car, so no typical rust.................but. There is some rust under the interior dash on the drivers side right where the hood cable comes through. Judging from the fact that there is no rust elsewhere on the car, this appears to have happened from a manufacturing oversight/defect. The rubber plug that the hood cable goes through was never "seated" properly at manufacture. You can see the rubber lip was folded under and allowed water to seep in and soak the dash insulation for years. So now the cable hole is shot with rust and it has spread further towards the passenger side of the car. Now, when you look under the hood, at the cable hole in the cowl, there is NO rust. As a matter of fact the entire spare tire platform looks like new. I know there are 2 layers of steel in this area and it's apparent that this rust started from the "inside to the outside", into just the one layer. It has not spread to the outside layer. It is under the seam caulk too, where the firewall goes vertical.. I told the guy that the dash needs to come out to gain access and any body caulk in that area needs to be removed and then rplaced after repair. Remove the rust, POR15 the area and fiberglass it in. (I said he's luck he caught it before it spread to the 2nd layer). Re-route the hood cable and seal the hole up. Any other suggestions for this kind of rust? He's putting some $$ into this car and want's it to last! I told him my thoughts and wanted to toss it to all of you for ideas. Thanks! Todd

Ok...the tools to get from SUBARU are way overpriced or discontinued, so what are the options, inventions and ideas and sources for these tools? Does wood really work? This information is fragmented throughout the board. We all do belts at some point and these tools are really the best, "safest" way to do the job. Main pulley holder Subaru # 499977000 Cam pulley holder Subaru # 499207100 Double cam holder for 2.5s Are there other tools too? Todd

I have 2 1995 Imprezas: 95 EA22 Automatic L AWD 88K (In 95 the AWD/2.2 combination were available.) 95 EA18 5 speed L FWD 56K Both are Fantastic vehicles. The automatic is flawless and shifts smoother glass. The 5 speed is just as nice. Shifts very much like my 79 GF! The only issues I have had with both were recall related. (Cam and crank sensor replacement.) I just had the temp sensor on the 2.2 fart, so $20 later it's good as new. The Imprezas have a bit better build quality then the Legacys in my opinion, as they are assembled completely in Japan. No mexican made parts! The price is low at 2K. I'd balk at $1800 if I was the seller. I would intentionally not sell it to you if you lowballed too low. Be careful! Todd

90-94 Legacy sunroofs will all interchange. I just placed a 93 in a 91 LSi. No problems. There are different types of tints, (blue and bronze), but that doesn't effect the fit. Hope this helps. Todd