Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Nope, but I really wish I could go visit my Washingtonian friends someday...

Also, I kindly suggest you to verify the Fitting of the LED on the Socket, as these things might being happening: One is the fact that some leds have their contacts as mini metallic rods that are simply lying over the Plastic base, and those contacts might be moved during the LED placement on the Socket, and not doing proper contact with the Base. Other thing is that the mere Socket could be Rusty and not transferring the electricity as they should, from the instrument cluster, to the LED contacts. Third thing is that the LED's might be Bad from factory. So, you should verify if the LED do Lit OUTSIDE the instrument cluster, by giving Power directly to each Socket with LED. Kind Regards..

Then, I kindly suggest you to check for a loose Plug on the Wiring to the instrument Cluster. Are all the Gauges working as they Should? Kind Regards.

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148641-to-27-loyale/?do=findComment&comment=1307978

Besides on my Writeup, I wrote this information two times on this mere thread before, at different dates: So, I believe that you placed them with inverted Polarity. (+/-) Remove 'em with their sockets, flip 'em 180º and reinstall 'em on the instrument Cluster. That should make 'em to lit as they should. Let us know the Results. Kind Regards.

Fuel thirsty? Maybe the air correction needles / fuel Jets weren't the appropriate ones. Kind Regards.

Instead of a 34/34 Weber, I believe it worth to try your EJ22 with a 32/36 Weber, both jets @ 140, and if the fail persist, maybe the Timing is off, causing certain unusual vacuum. Kind Regards.

Everything seems to be fine on your Setup. If extra fuel pressure is ruled out, I can only think about something mismatched during the assembly of the Weber, including a "Rotating" loose fuel needle (or Nozzle, I don't know its proper name in english), on the Primary -low- stage. Worth double check everything there. Kind Regards.

It should be installed next to the fuel Pump's outlet, to keep fuel the fuel in the line. Kind Regards.

This is an example, of a one way, fuel Check valve:

The book "Weber Carburetors" by Pat Braden notes, on page 22: "In general, Webers should receive a maximum fuel pressure of 3.5 psi" You must consider that Excessive pressure will keep the needle valve in the float bowl from closing properly, that will Flood the Weber carburetors which doesn't have the fuel cutoff solenoid. The stock fuel Pump on Carbureted Subaru EA82's, have 5/16" in and out fittings, and delivers around 2 to 3 PSi; so, they're perfect for these Webers, My recommendation is to obtain another, Subaru Original fuel pump, for Carbureted EA82's. However, if you can not find another, original Subaru fuel pump, then you should obtain another electric fuel Pump, whose fittings are both 5/16" and delivers no more than 4 PSi. I know that using the "Y" inlet fitting on the Carburetor, will take care of the Excess of Fuel, but if the electric fuel Pump that you obtain, has more than 4 PSi, I suggest you to obtain an in-line Fuel Pressure Regulator / Check Valve; letting it to keep the pressure under 4 PSi; the check valve function, will easy the starting of the engine, if the car sits for some days, unused. There are many Fuel Pressure Regulators on the aftermarket stores, I've seen ~► This one, being used in Weber swaps, on other cars. The brand / Quality of the products you chose, depends on you \ how much you want to spend. Thank you for your kind words, which I really appreciate. Kind Regards.

Awesome! Thank you for answering, Kind Regards.

Congratulations on your New Subaru added to your Family. It is Manual Transmission with Dual Range, or Automatic? Kind Regards.

► The fuel cutoff Solenoid doesn't come in Standard Webers. ....It is an "Extra" that you could ask and / or obtain later, because it is easy to add on. ► The accelerator cable Bracket, should come with the Kit. (if you purchased it as a Kit) ....So, ask to the one who sold the Kit to you, he might simply Forgot to put it in the Bundle. Kind Regards.

Also, you can check for Rusty contacts, on the Fuse box and on the wiring plugs. Kind Regards.

That is pretty interesting, you've done a good job here on the Swap and also on the informative photos. Thank you for sharing your experience. May I ask how is the Alignment of the Belt? Kind Regards.

Yes, even Fusible Links could be Rusted and failing. Another ECU, in a Junk Yard... but you might test it. Good Luck, Kind Regards.

This might have useful information: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/15857-chart-of-ea82-changes-throughout-the-years/ Edit: I posted the link, before realizing you only wanted curb weight / Power ratio data. Sorry. Kind Regards.

Anyone tested it with another ECU?

Awesome! Update this thread as the retrofitting goes. Kind Regards.

Somehow, that's normal wear of the coil spring, because often, the cars are only used by the Driver, and the weight is unbalanced. Long ago, I wrote regarding improving the suspension for offroading / loaded uses. ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ In that writeup, I mention some coil springs that fits on the Subie, but will raise and stiffen the ride; read it in case you want such results. Kind Regards.

Thank you for coming back for sharing here the Answer -solution- to the problem; it could be Helpful for other Subaru owners. Kind Regards.

All the EA82's Dashboards, have provisions for everything, as it simplifies the building Process; but not all the accesories designed for them, are installed on the factory; they depends on the version model, you know, DL, GL, GL-10, RS, RX, RX/II, GT, GTi, among others... However, yes, share Photos with us. You can slide the cable for the choke thru the Firewall, using certain holes already provided for that, they are covered with rubber caps usually. Kind Regards.

Is the car, parked on an inclined floor? You must consider two things, one already was written by Matt167: The other thing is, that when you turn the engine off, certain amount from oil goes from the Oil Filter to the Crankcase, augmenting the level overnight; that's the reason why usually, is better to measure the Oil level, when the car already reached normal operatin' temperatures; with engine off. In case you want to easily get rid from the Excess of Oil, without doing a mess; this Video could be Helpful: Kind Regards.

Have a nice trip and don't forget to share Photos with us. Kind Regards.