Meeky Moose

and if it doesn't matter what make of vehicle.. 78' Ford F-150, speedo says 85mph. can wrap it back around to the 40mph and still have pedal.. heh guess this ole truck is faster than an STI muuahaha :moon:

go get an easy out.. they're only a couple bucks.. drill the hole 1/4" in and use the easy out to get the stud out.. just did 4 out of 6 on my ea81 block and heads.. and these were rusted in there from sitting for several years..

fuel pump, fuel filter, deffinitely not the alternator... electronic module in the distributor a good possibility.. if the alternator was the culprit you'd have a dead battery... i'd start with the cheap fixes, fuel filter first.. then the electronic module in the distributor, then the fuel pump.. its bound to be one of those

well, i've had my turbo wagon up to 110 on the flats.. she had more pedal but with 290k i didn't wanna push her too far.. on another note, i had my xt6 up to 145, when i was headin to salem from grants pass.. :moon:

count me in... can't be too far away tho, i don't exactly trust the hatch yet..

i'd say pop the radiator out, pull the timing belt covers and check the timing yourself.. its fairly easy.. and never hurts to double check..

anyone have that link to where they "lightened that nissan sentra" that suddenly pops to mind. chop the top, use temporary donuts as tires, remove the dash, etc.. basically have a rolling chassis with an engine.. i know you wouldn't do that Dennis, the thought just popped into my head for some reason lol...

yeah, some pics would be great... can send them to tsinclair@avspec.com no limit on size...

ahh, its an idea that'll prolly wait awhile(no green stuff). i think it might be one of those summer projects...

hmm thats wierd.... i took the one outa my hydraulic motor and stuck it in my pushrod motor no problem.. they were the same size.. one disty was a hitachi (out of hydraulic motor) the other was a nipondenso (out of pushrod motor) so not sure why one would be bigger than the other...

heh, theres this little chihuahua, on my back road. runs out right when ya start to go by, twice i've dodged or stopped.. in the hatch, i just run over it.. and the damn thing is so small it just ducks and never gets hurt

put brat t-tops in my hatch?:cornfuzz: :cornfuzz: i know i'd have to do some cutting/welding/fabbing.. i don't know if it can even be done, was just a hairbrained idea i had to fix the leaking holes in my roof..

repack all the wheels bearings with new stuff

yeah, just bad timing, lol.. ahh well... theres always mud somewhere, and another day to play..

my hatch was doin that same thing after the new water pump and thermostat.. so i replaced the thermostat again, and fixed the problem.. i thinks you got a bum thermostat..

doh, i'd come but thats te day i gotta pick up the RX :-\

if that fuse doesn't fix her, take the blower motor assembly out, disassemble the motor itself and just do a thorough cleaning. thats all that was wrong with my hatch.. after it was put back together it works like new again.. it showed the same symptoms as you describe...

i don't know much about the loyales, but i'm sure they're close to my wagon,, anyways, when i took mine out i had to take the front grill off, unbolt it, and it slid out the bottm, between teh radiator and the bumper.. had to jack the car up a little bit tho..

i just went through that with my hatch.. although mine was a loose ground where the neg. cable bolts to teh front of the engine... after fixin that i can turn everything on that there is to turn on, even the flashers, and the guage never sees anything below 13

hey moosens, when ya get that engine outa there, those tranny mounts are pretty easy from that point hint hint

yeah, i put one up awhile back, and about 30 seconds afterwards it was removed for discussion.. and never put back... guess ya gotta say nice things or it gets removed.. doesn't matter if the bad things said are for everyones benefit and knowledge..

heh, ohh yeah i got 26mpg in 4low on that 300 mile drive..

well, i was diggin through my FSM... found this 1800cc engine, 50psi, 500rpm, 167-185 temperature 1800cc engine, 57psi, 2500rpm, 167-185 temperature pressure relief valve starts to open at 64psi oil bypass valve opens at 21 psi

as for doin is safely no more than 45 is what the factory booklet says.. although i drove mine in 4low 60-65mph 300 miles on dry pavement, no ill effects i noticed..

well the stock oil pressure gauge is toast, so i hooked up an aftermarket gauge tonight.. its reading 50psi at idle and almost 70 at 2500-3k.. the engine is warm too, since i jsut drove it home from work.. any reason this could be?? is it a bad thing or a good thing?? this oil pump was on the engine that had sat for several years before i stuck it in and started usin it..