Uberoo

Just having a suspension lift kills most of your downtravel. Then The stiffer springs mean that the suspension can't tuck up into the body as it should so less up travel.

It looks like your riding the clutch a bit.Let off the clutch and let the torque of the car carry it over things.If it starts to bog out then give it more throttle,With a good battery and starter sometimes it is easier to let it stall out. Also as Zap said, it doesn't have alot of travel, are the sway bars still hooked up? And finally, when ever possible try to put the tires on rocks,stumps,whatever rather than straddle the same thing because usually the rock,stump,whatever, has more traction than the dirt and it also lifts the body clear of things that might snag it.Although sometimes it takes more effort to climb the obstacle than just run it over...

I still say it looks like alot of fun.I bet a subaru could do it if TCASED or you drove it with a IDGAF mentality when it comes to body damage.

Its not fair.You guys get all the cool trails and subarus but there is so much traffic and people that I would loose my mind living up there. According to youtube 197 looks fun as hell.

I would imagine it would be that stiff with torsion bars AND coil springs,The saqqing issue could be fixed by removing the torsion bars and then installing the EA82 coilovers.Then you can adjust spring rate to suit your needs.

After searching the craigslists all around SLC I see what you mean about finding DR cars.You may need to come all the way up to washington to get a DR car,either that or buy a single range car and buy a DR transmission from somewhere.

accord springs don't have different ends.

Stop doing SPOT WELDS.While it is true that a good proper weld looks like a stack of dimes they are also very strong.Your welds only serve to look nice without actually being strong. Earlier in the thread you posted some pics of booger welds,and while the "stack of tack welds" looks nicer it is not as strong as a proper weld and maybe even slightly weaker than the bird crap welds. Look up online the proper technique for welding and practice. While I will admit that even my own welds arn't perfect they are still improving, but it is really hard to get decent welds in rusty/painted metal or in out of position welding.However,my welds on clean, prepped steel where I can be comfortable look good and are strong. Remember there are several stages of welds: (1) bad looking/no penetration,(2) bad looking/good penetration, (3) good looking/moderate penetration, and finally (4) good looking AND good penetration. On your average day my average welds are somewhere in category 2 and 3. As for spare to bring and spare parts to leave: *Brace up your struts and you shouldn't blow them as much.So they arn't needed. *Spindles/hubs/bearings-no unless your doing 1000+ mile expedition trips,otherwise its alot of extra weight. *Under normal use I would say that bringing extra control arms,tie rods,and ball joints are overkill,because In my years of wheeling I have only bent one control arm.I also don't drive through the forest like a mad man and expect my ECONOMY CAR to handle like a trophy truck.So in your case if you continue to keep breaking control arms even after you beefed them up than keep bringing them as spares. *AXLES are a given because I blow a ton of axles. *I have never punctured my radiator in such a way that would prevent me from getting home.I have also never destroyed an electric fan to the point of failure offroad.I have had to top off my radiator every once in a while from a stick that got jammed in it. *Spare tire(s) are a given especially when running over rocks at low pressure. *I haven't had to replace an oil or air filter offroad, same with spark plugs and wires.I have had a fuel pump fail as well as a fuel filter plug up on an old subaru with a metal tank. that was my recommendation on what not to bring,when I go wheeling I bring: *At least 1 front and 1 rear axle,preferably more. *My junkyard/offroad toolkit.Enough tools to fix most anything wrong with the car *electrical wire and fuses. *spare tire *jack *engine oil *radiator water *potable water *duct tape and zip ties *shovel *chain/recovery strap *couple spare lug/nuts *possible fuel pump if old one is questionable My spare parts list is more designed to get me home after a failure of some kind rather than continue to play.For instance if need my spare tire I start heading home afterwards,same if I blow my last axle..While I could bring 5-6 axles and a couple spare tire its alot of extra weight.I'm not running the baja 1000, I'm just out wheeling for a day/weekend..

The less something weighs the better.Also when they get lighter the loss of gearing isnt as bad of issue.I drove an ea81 based buggy with 31" tires and it got around pretty good.By comparison 31" tires on a full bodied EA81 or even EA82 is a gutless wonder.

5 speed DR weigh 150 lbs?Holy carp.I thought they only weighed like 75 or so.I feel strong

1.the 4eat sucks offroad,it doesn't like hills or offcamber offroad.Also it has a an open center diff so if you lift ONE tire you loose drive.The 5spd DR doesn't have problems with hills or offcamber,It doesn't have a center diff so 4wd means that it 50% of the power goes to each end of the car regardless of what the ground is doing. 2.The wheel selection in 5x100 sucks compared to the wheel selection in 6x5.5/140.With 6x140 you might even find wheels with decent offroad rubber already attached to them. 3.The EJ struts limit the max tire size you can run unless you do a strut bottom lift. The best situation is to mix and match parts from various gens of subarus ,its ok they are just giant lego sets. For example: EA81(81-84 +hatches +brats) are the smallest physically and the rear suspension flexes great.However, the front suspension doesn flex,the transmission sucks,and the engine is carbed. EA82(85-94 loyales) have decent front suspension,decent transmissions,and reliable and robust fuel injection systems,but the engine itself is CRAP. EJ stuff has a good engine and some aftermarket support, and a DR transmission if imported from austrialia.the 4eat is ok offroad as long as you don't climb steep hills, do offcamber stuff,etc.No low range, and open center diff. The best offroader will be a mix of the various gens: EA81 hatch(smallest car period), EA82 5 speed DR,EA82 front suspension,engine can either be a EA81 pushrod engine with EA82 fuel injection or EJ series. However, a EA82 body car makes a decent starting platform because it already has most of the components for off road,just needs an engine swap.Not to mention that EA81 vehicles are getting hard to find.However,it is physically bigger than EA81 so it weighs more and and is more likely to incur body damage on trails.A EA82 wagon is like a limo compared to a EA81 hatch. EJ vehicles dont have any offroad credentials other than rally stardom.They are bigger and heavier than either EA option,the have no low range,they have an open center diff,the the suspension does not flex at either end in stock form but parts exist to fix at least the rear.

As a matter of fact I do.I'll PM you because I am interested in seeing what your friend has to say.Even better if he could whip something up on the printer.Not only would I have a plastic adapter, but I would have a 3d printed adapter! EDIT: clean out your inbox txakura.The software wont let me message you.

...but the older stuff is physically smaller and weigh less.Not to mention they dont have the EA82.Nuff said.

This is starting to sound doable.Now if I can find the plastic intake manifold to really loose some weight.

Lets also not forget that on a car the wheel LUGS take the full weight of the car as well as the rotational force.Especially with wheels that have very large center bores.I would wager that the forces on the wheel while turning,accelerating,braking, or running over bumps is far more than the rotational force the bellhousing experiences especially with good motor/transmission mounts.Those lugs are close to the center of the wheel so the force exerted on them has to be pretty high to control the wheel.The bellhousing bolts are much further out so they arn't stressed as much. However, there still is the issue of 1/2" of bolt being unsupported.I'll try it an see, if after everything is connected and tight if I can rotate the engine relative to the transmission(with a prybar) then I will abandon it.With the steel sleeves in the plate I will be able to torque it down as tight as normal.

I think I will try it anyway. HDPE is really cheap and a 24x24x1/2 sheet/plate would run me all of $24. In addition to that HDPE is used for body lifts in trucks and some suspension lifts in subarus, so if it can hold 4000lbs without failing or deforming then it can hold whatever force the 4 bolts on the engine can hold. With steel sleeves around the bolts and down pins it should hold up great. HDPE softening temp is about 250-260*F so if the engine gets that hot I will have bigger fish to fry.While the plastic might soften under the the sustained temps with the inserts it shouldn't matter. At the very least if it doesn't work I wont be out much money and will have an excellent jig for making it in metal. If it works then I would have shaved 15 lbs off the front of the car.Roughly guessing the adapter plate has 3 sides 20" long by 2" wide x.5" thick so roughly 60 in^3.steel weighs 17 lbs for that,aluminum weighs 6 lbs,and the plastic weighs 2lbs.. So I will put spacers in the lower bolt holes in the transmission so everything is tight and can't rotate and I guess I will see how it works out...

So I am thinking about reducing the weight of my project 78' brat as much as I can.While the EJ22 and the 5spd dr both weigh more than the original 1.6 and 4 speed single range they are needed or wanted(depending on your point of view).On the engine side of things Ive replaced steel brackets with aluminum brackets if they exist, while also drilling holes in things to lighten it up(that gram adds up,...eventually).So I did all that stuff but I keep coming back to the 1/2" steel adapter plate.What started as a 20x20 1/2" plate only has a little bit of steel at the edges. So something like 90% of its original mass is gone,even still its big and heavy. I started looking into aluminum plates, but aluminum is expensive and from a cost analysis spending 100-200+ for an aluminum plate that would save maybe 1/2 lb is kinda hard to justify.I could rework my steel plate so there is absolutely no metal where it doesn't touch the engine or transmission, and drill a bunch of holes in the plate to reduce weight even further.Seeing as the plate is just sand witched between to chunks of aluminum, the aluminum will compress long before the steel compresses,and the bolts/nuts will strip out LONG BEFORE either of that happens, so drilling a bunch of holes in it wouldn't affect its compressive strength one bit.So I was thinking,(bad idea I know) if the plate is loaded in a purely compressive state why can't some form of plastic work?Obviously the plate can't be drilled and tapped and expected to hold up,but siamezed bolts that thread into the engine and bolt to the transmission could be used. In my mind the only issues are: the plastic becoming soft and compressing under operating temps, or it would be asking the bolts to provide clamping force as well as prevent rotation of the engine/transmission.So if a plastic was used based on its working temp it should hold up to the pressure without deforming a significant amount.The rotation issue is almost on a non issue because the bolts as they come from the factory are essentially set up the same way.Sure there are a couple of little dowels that help with that to an extent,but ive seen several adapter plates without any holes for the dowels work just fine.Same with stock engines/transmissions that for whatever reason didn't have the dowel pins in. However this all based on my limited knowledge(almost non-existant) of the plastics, but I know that if you put a plastic sheet on concrete and put a lot of weight on it,it wont compress a noticeable amount.Looking online tells me that plastic would be 8x lighter than steel,and 2.7x lighter than aluminum so if it could work that is a significant weight saving for not alot of money. I don't know anything about the plastics other than maybe their abbreviation and what that means.. UHMW,HDPE,PVC,ABS,etc..But maybe someone who works with plastics might be able to shed some light on why this wont work or something suitable that might work?

I'm driving up to Bellingham, Wa then down to Salem, Or then back to Lewiston on sunday and monday(21 and 22nd).Does anyone along the way have an aluminum ea-ej adapter plate that they dont want want anymore and would be willing to sell?

Ask Austin(Ratty2Austin) because the red legoback is his.

I just want to see a turboed rwd BRZ for shenanigans.Didn't the 4 door thing come out of the group b issue with the stupid fans?

Yep, an old camp trailer converted into a flatbed that I got as part of a trade from a friend,that needs some serious structural reinforcements.The trailer flexed and bounced on a rough road until eventually the straps holding the hatch to the trailer came undone.The last strap holding it in place fell off at the bottom of a hill so as I straightened out the hatch rolled off the back of the trailer.So now I have a new project and that trailer will get some serious modifications before I tow with it again.

Certainly doesn't look nearly as happy as this pic taken the day before.

Very bad structurally un-sound welds. If you want trail carnage than this might feed your apatite . technically it didn't happen while wheeling but happened on the return trip home.

Garden Edging.