Uberoo

wait I thought body lift was what you wanted to do?suspension lifts blow out axles?Right?

Im guessing its the CTS because the injector is not spraying. as for the sixth wire,thats how I orinally had it yesterday.It would not start just connected to there...to get it to start before I ended up stripping the insulation off that wire were I connected it to the ecu then touching it to an exposed hot.

My EA81 SPFI swap ran great yesterday now I can't get it to start.I drove it into its parking spot yesterday.Go to start it today and it wont start.WTF? I have fuel.I should have spark,I have power to the coil and all that.I did nothing to it other than putting 1/2 doors on it. I was able to get it started after a long time cranking and a ton of of starting fluid.Then I turned it off and I havent gotten it to start yet. everything that is supposed to be hot is hot but still no start I dont quite have the start wire hooked to anything right now which was why I was tring to start it.You know find the wire that when starting is hot, then tap into it. To get it started before I just touched that wire to a 12V hot and it would start.Now even doing that it wont start.

pics?

Im all for custom mods but that is way to much work to extend everything. Just look into the EA82 front suspension swap.Already has longer axles and control arms.Then make a 2" block to lift the strut.A couple pieces of 2x2X1/4 tube works pretty good for lift blocks.The holes to attach to the lift block to the strut and the body need to be offset some degree.Normal subaru lifts offset the holes 7* per inch of lift (IN to engine).However a much smaller angle is needed for the lift with Ea82 suspension.On my 83 wheeler toy it has the EA82 suspension and a 2" block.But the block was drilled for 7* so I have a decent amount of negative camber...Im running 2wd front springs which are softer so its not quite as high as it should be in front but now it has something resembling travel Stock EA81 suspension with 2" lift in front and torsion bar cranked up in the back scored a 350 on an RTI ramp. just the addition of the softer front springs and the EA82 suspension bumped that up to 420. then there is a couple mods I can do to the rear to bump that number up (not that 420 isn't a nice number )

I have no idea what mine is timed to.I just plopped the disty in and moved the plug wires around until it started and ran...

If you are looking for more power out of an EA81,A weber carb or SPFI swap give the most bang for your buck.However, the weber gives a slight improvement in power,but where it really shines is run ability compared the hitachi carb.So it helps a bit.For power at all ranges go with the SPFI swap.I just finished my SPFI swap on my EA81 offroad toy.It seems to have more power than any other EA81 series vehicle that I have ever driven.It is lifted 2" and has 235/75/15 MT's on it.It is faster than the car when it had the stock carb and stock tires.It is even faster than my old 84 brat with a weber and stock tires. Before the swap I had to slip the clutch a bit or give it lots of power to take off with those bigger tires.Now I can pull away like a normal person. Weber: Far better run ability and tune ability over stock carb.Seems to give good low end grunt,decently cheap SPFI : its in a different league when it comes to run ability.Makes good Power across the rev band,More expensive than weber,wiring. My Ea81 Idles smoother than it has ever,and it has no problems at all reving to 8k.The stock carb couldn't put enough fuel in the engine to go much higher than 6K. Other than that,Maybe a delta cam would help a fair bit...But for right now its got loads of power...

I haven't camped in a wagon, but I did do something in the back of my legacy sedan that isn't quite "G rated"...

why do people take cars offroad? BFG A/T's for sure and make sure the cooling system is tip top shape.

Got it.Had some issues with wiring being crossed and what not but I got it to start. my switched hot was only on in start.My start wire wasn't on at all.My constant hot wasn't constant because its fusible link wasn't connected and so on.. not to mention my timing was off a fair bit... Now I need to go buy a cone air filter and adapt it to the MAF,Buy a O2 sensor,and put a skid plate back on it.Not to mention tidying up some of the wiring.. but it runs...far better than with the 30 year old craptachi and corroded disty cap...

On an spfi which hose off the intake manifold is fuel in?Thanks.

knock out your 1/4 panel windows as well as pull your hatch to get max airflow back there.

I would say buying pugs is more like being a girl than drilling rims. Guys like risk and danger drilling rims has both(although very small) buying something that fits is girly! So there!

tires look a bit close to the front framerails.How will it turn?

Im just gonna stuff the ECU where one of the speakers went. Ok,Im using a test light and Im trying to find Constant Hot,hot in run,and Hot in start. On my 84 wagon there is a white wire that is hot at all times.On the back of the ignition switch there is a black w/ yellow stripe that is hot in run.But that wire turns to a black w/ white stripe on the other side of the connector.Im thinking that is the start signal because the signal wire off the starter is black w/ white stripe.Also there is a black w/ pink stripe on the ignition switch that isn't connected to anything PIN R on the switch.Is that the start wire for a computer? I dunno anyone know a pinout of the various functions on an EA81 ignition switch?I don't want get this wrong because the last time I guessed wrong I wired the ECU to 12V constant and I had to use a switch to turn it off..

Heavy Wagon,dude!

How do I take apart the dash on an EA81?I need to pull mine so I can install the SPFI wiring harness.Ive undid just about every screw I can find but its still in there tight.Anyone got a picture of where the main dash bolts/screws are?

Ok let me verify that how I have my power wires run is correct: I got a red wire coming from a green fusable link.That wire goes diectly to the center of the ignition relay.From that wire I have the black/White stripe wires that go to the ignition relay and to the computer tied into the wire with a 15A fuse. those wires are always hot. then from the grey diode near the ECU I have the red/Blue stripe wire.I spliced in a lead from that wire, to the both black/White stripe wires that go to the fuel pump relay.That wire connecting the Red/b stripe and the Black/w stripe wires hot only in start and run with a 15A fuse. those wires are switched power. Is that correct?Will that work?Or do the wires need to be separate? from the harness I have three power wires that need to be connected: constant hot: powering ignition relay and computer switched Hot: powering fuel pump relay and grey diode hot in start only:start signal

Ok I got the wires for the harness all sorted out. How can I find out which wire on the ignition switch harness on the car is the start signal wire?If I hold the key to start with a battery connected the car will start.So how do I find out which wire the start signal wire is without starting the car?Or should I find out what color the start signal wire is out in engine bay and pray that it is the same color at the switch and that there is only one such wire..

Chinese tires are questionable at best, but you can buy them anywhere tires are sold.Those rims are from a chinese company with no us distributors. I wouldn't trust my life on them when quality 14 and 15" wheels are readily available.For looks you can have your hubs drilled out so it looks normal/nice.

More food for thought.I don't know how well a red hot turbo would be with water/mud getting thrown on it...

while the idea of an EJ22T in a wheeler sounds fun.It will probally be too much engine for what you need. When you say offroad/mud only rig in my mind im pictureing driving through the woods,through the local mud holes,etc. Unless you are refering to straight up mud drag/mud bog type events an NA EJ22 should serve your needs great.Think of it this way.The EJ22 is close to 2X the power of the stock engine.You've lightened the car up a bit by stripping the interior and what not.Not to mention NA EJ22's are a dime a dozen in junkyards.To date I have not seen ONE EJ22T in a junkyard.Or on the road for that matter. I converted an 87 GL wagon to EJ22.It had 205/60/15 snow tires on it,full interior,etc. it had no problems what so ever incinerating the tires in FWD.I could be driving down the road at 30 MPH in 3rd gear and punch the gas and BOTH tires would burn out.On dry pavement. Why not convert to EJ22 and see if you like the power.If you feel that you still need more power, then swap in the 2.2T.

anybody?

Ok 3,10,11,12,13 go to dealer test.So then Im good as far as that goes. Anyone know which wires I need for power?

Ok so I think I have the harness mostly stripped.Some wires to the ECU got cut: 1 Kickdown control 2 CEL 3 TEST 4 6 A/C signal 10 Line End Cord Output 11 Line End Cord Output 12 Line End Cord Output 13 Inhibitor Switch 14 Neutral Switch 15 Parking Switch 18 Start Switch 46 AC Control Ok so: 1,13,15 are for an automatic which I don't have.So good there. 6,46 are for the AC which I don't want. 2 is the CEL which gets ran to ECS light 14 gets wired to a Cruise control switch that my 84 has. 3 WTH? I have all the test connectors connected to each other.Non were cut.Got the green and the white connectors laying right next to each other. 10,11,12 WTH is "Line End Output Cord" 18 is HOT only in start. Then for wiring: 2 CEL 18 Hot in Start Only 22 VSS 27 Hot in RUN and START 29 Hot in RUN and START 30 GND 35 GND 41 Hot in RUN and START 42 GND 44 GND 49 Hot in RUN and START 50 GND 51 GND this just doesn't seem right.Which GND is the main GND for the computer?I imagine most of the GND's are for various switches grounding at the ECU.Same with Power.