The Beast I Drive

^^^ What he said. With this lift, you may or may not need to cut the rear bumb stops off. Other than that it will bolt right in. The front is kind of a b*tch though, but you don't have to modify anything. -Bill

I use flat-rate shipping boxes, so I can ship anywhere in the country for $15.00. -Bill

This is the every day amazing low price I could do just the rears for $50 -Bill

Nice Score! Looks a lot like mine, only Browner... For the rear I've heard that Chevy rear springs from something or another are the way to go... I actually have a 84 4Runner frame sitting here with them on it, they are longer and with stock shackles give about 3" of lift and a lot more flex. I'd make you a deal on the ones I have here if you'd be willing to come get them. -Bill

2" OFF ROAD SUSPENSION LIFT KITS for EA82 cars This is a bulletproof (literaly, I've tested it ) 2" lift kit for Gen 3 (GL, DL, Loyale, etc.) wagons, coupes, and sedans. It installs in as little as 1 hour if you know what you are doing. It will put extreme angles on you CV axles, so make sure you have good motor and transmission mounts and spare axles just in case. Camber will be very close to stock so you shouldn't see much different tire wear. Go from stock: To Ready to Rock: Available in Safety Orange Gloss, Olive Green Flat, or unpainted bare steel. Comes with Grade 8 mounting hardware. Outrageously priced at only $100 per kit!!!!! (plus shipping) PM me or call me, Bill, at (509) 391-5903. Thanks! -Bill

Is anyone here interested in 4" lifts for their Gen 1 Brats, wagons, coupes, or other Gen 1 4wds? Available in Safety Orange Gloss, Olive Green Flat, or unpainted bare steel. Grade 8 and new Metric mounting hardware will be included. Buyers will be responsible for the steering extensions and shift linkage mods, along with the other usual stuff that goes with lifting a Subaru (brake lines, engine hoses, tires/wheels, etc.) priced to sell at just $350 per kit! Send me a PM or call me, Bill, at (509) 391-5903 if interested. Thanks! -Bill

Well, I sold the 2wd a while back, havent really done anything with the 4wd, but its probably just going to be a parts car for my 72 split-gate wagon and one of my brats... -Bill

The actual damage to the unibody structure really isnt that bad, and I'll be able to fix that no problem. I dont want to deal with the paint or bodywork because I just dont have time to do it, and I cant afford to pay a shop to fix it. Also, its my mom's car, and she doesnt want to drive a multi-colored wagon every day to work. We have back up vehicles, so it can sit for a while until the right parts show up. Then it will just be a matter of bolting on the new body panels and lights. Or maybe I can convince her to give it to me for my birthday..... Then I could really do something special with it..... -Bill

Looks like s*** Brian Na, thats a sweet bumper, I see what you meant about the arcs taking forever to bend, but it payed off cuz it fits perfect. I vote for at least trying out the LSD in the rear, just because you can. If you dont like it its not like its that hard to swap in an open diff... -Bill

All the parts are basically interchangeble from the 85-86 wagons to the 87-94 wagons, it was just a cosmetic facelift. I am looking for a parts car, but I need it to be a light blue 85 or 86 in excellent shape if possible, I want it to be as little work as possible to get it fixed. -Bill

I should be there, I'll be in a Toyota though... -Bill

To start, my brother has never really liked any Subaru other than my old Brat that Earl now has, but he has driven a couple others. Both of his mishaps occured just days after I had done some kind of signifigant work to the rigs. The first Subaru he owned was a '79 Brat I sold him. It ran great for the first few days, then on his way back to the Tri-Cities the motor crapped out on him, so he gave it back to me. Just Yesterday, he did this to my Mom's formerly gorgeous '86 4wd wagon: It used to look like this: Then just on Thursday I installed a 2" lift on it: This just sucks because it was such a beautiful car! Hopefully I can come up with a parts car that was in equally good shape on the outside at least, so I can bring it back to its former glory. Just figured I'd share some pics with ya'll:burnout: -Bill

I never ran into that problem on the Beast, and I drove it on the street as a daily driver, welded rear and 31" mud tires.... Welding it all solid though should make it a lot more sturdy -Bill

I know Im real late to the party here, but I should be there this year. Been off for a while but my buddy wants to go again for a tree this time, so I hope to see you guys there. Still know internet at my house so if anyone wants to get ahold of me just call. Hope to see everyone there! -Bill

Hey everyone, I realize it has been a loooong time since I was last on here. I have no internet right now, and wont for quite some time into the forseeable future, so it will be very rare when I am on here for some time. I apologize for the inconvenience this may cause to some of you, but theres not much I can do about it. For anyone trying to get ahold of me, please call my cell phone, (509) 391-5903. If I dont answer please leave a message and I will get back to you. Once again I apologize for the inconvenience, and I will let you all know when I am back online. Thanks, -Bill

There should be remnants of the old jumpseat brackets still in the bed of the Brat, all Brats from 77-84 or 85 came to the U.S. with the jumpseat frame welded to the bed in 12 places, and if yours were removed then someone had to cut them out, and usually there is bits of the old mounting brackets left behind from the cut job. If they were cleaned up too good though, just mount it so the seat backs have about 3" or so of clearance from the headrest bars, or so the front edge of the mounting bracket lines up with the carpet hold down strip in the bed. -Bill

It wont lower it 3" from stock, if you cut a piece of 1/8" steel and bolt it to one of the bolts that attaches the front part of the front block on the rear subframe to the body, not to the long bolt that goes to the subframe. Then it stays right up in its stock location. But, for what you are doing, I would recomend mounting it inside. If it's a stock pump, it probably wont make much noticable noise. -Bill

With the stock rear coilovers he is using there is no where near enough up travel to break any axles under compression. Plus with the 2" of extra lift, the axles will be almost straight level at full compression. Ea81's with torsion bar rears are the ones that have uber uptravel -Bill

I just grab used OEM axles as long as the boots are in good shape, the rears dont fail nearly as much as the fronts... -Bill

Destroyed my JDM EA81 driving home from the mud bogs... Extreme overheating from no air flow at all in the radiator... I know, dumb************ move on my part for not checking it... Engine still runs, with 2 blown headgaskets and severe rod knock, and who know's what else... It's all good, it's getting replaced with a built Hi-Po EA81 soon I had a great time and the Beast did pretty awesome in the mud this time, only had to get pulled out 1 time and beat 2 rigs in heads-up mud racing Here I got stuck for a minute when the motor sucked a lot of water, but I was able to limp it out without a tow I didn't get much for pictures, as I was driving, but my buddy did get some vids and they will be up soon. Here's what my car looked like this morning Clogged radiator My engine bay, even though I had my hood on, it STILL got completely mud drenched. I am devising some mods to fix this though, and it should be all better by next year -Bill

I run my rear axles at that angle and I've never had a problem, but I am running OEM axles, so can't say how the remans will take it... I don't anticipate any problems with it though. -Bill

Looks damn good man, and right at home on the trails! -Bill

Fixed the front camber on the Beast with new front lift blocks, so now I see just how bad the negative camber in the rear really is But that will get fixed with the striaght axle swap. Swapped to 6-lug, got rid of some of the vibration at speed, but I need an alignment and a re-balance for the tires. Fixed the mufflers again so they don't hit the carrier bearing drop block, and moved my wiper fluid container to the inner strut tower instead of inside the fender so it's out of harm's way Next is to go get it dirty at the mud bog! -Bill

The fuel return line from the carburetor should run back to the top of the gas tank. The vent line should run from the top of the gas tank to the evap charcoal canister. Fuel pump pressure should be no more than 5 psi, and I have no clue what those little things are on your pic, I imagine some kind of vaccum solenoid or something for the carb... You are running a stock Hitachi 2bbl carb, correct? -Bill

Have you found where the spray is coming from? That will really help narrow it down... -Bill