daeron

GD: youre gonna end up making me swap my engine to something else, before too much longer. i cant afford that, not in dollars and not in days (or weeks, or months...) so you need to stop it. i dont know what you need to stop, but you need to. incidentally, what amperage is that alternator? if there is a second ear on the backside, on one of them, then it looks like another boltin just like the datsun/nissan hitachi units ive been talking about... It is so awesome to start confirming how similar these japanese cars are, component wise. ive thought for a LONG time i could be swapping parts around from make to make, and i have a feeling im going to shake ALOT loose in the next decade or so. just the tweakfreak in me i guess.

i never broke anything, i had rust problems both the muffler on my soob, and the one on my Z, rusted off the pipe. the Zcar's was missing the rear support, too, so it just fell off into oblivion, and my engine suddenly got louder. it took me five seconds to actually believe that it WAS louder... i was driving down a bumpy dirt road at high speed. small bumps, but once they blur together into a high frequency whine, it not only rattles the rusty muffler off, but it makes enough noise to make you doubt it, too! i just wanted to reaffirm that im not offroading anything, and breaking it.. just being cheap and letting my car rust away on me.

yah, thats cuz OHV== lawnmower engine.. just kidding, of course. i just had to do it.

if you have a multimeter, and know how to use it, i can email you a 4 megabyte pdf file thats a part of the factory service manual from an 89. it has an extremely thorough procedure on checking the components of the fuel injection system, and you can use that to check the TPS, the idle air circuit, and the coolant temp sensor, and see if you can trace down your problem. ive long been of the opinion that the best way to troubleshoot an FI problem like this, thats intermittent and only comes up under certain conditions, is to do a manual test of the performance of any components that may have an effect like that indicated.. its usually mixture-related because well, thats about all the FI computer really controls... that and spark. so let me know, make another post or PM me and i can send it to you. i downloaded it from someone here, so its not like its any skin off my back...

you want my two bits on this?? you asked for it.. well first off, are you aware that racing stripes are functional?? the outside edge is determined by the point where, from the driver's eye, an invisible line (drawn along the pavement that even with the outside edge of your wheel) disappears into the hood of the car. the INside of the stripe is determined by the point where the same line disappears for the passenger side. so to re-state, the outside edges of the stripes are the distance between the driver's side of the vehicle and the point where the invisible line disappears.. and the inside edges are determined by the invisible line on the passengers side. i hope that made sense, ive never been able to explain it without using my hands and a car to demonstrate. one final attempt at a re-wording.. when you sit in the car with functional racing stripes, look at the outside drivers edge.. thats where your wheel is.. then look at the inside passenger is.. thats where THAT wheel is.. hey, that was simple! I do like the idea of the racing stripes, because on many vehicles "functional" racing stripes wouldnt look right at all... but the shape of the hatch is thus that the functional ones will still be attractive, so its not something to take for granted. IIRC, the first ones were on either mini coopers or shelby cobras (probly the only time in history those two cars could EVER get confused) try sitting in a ford taurus, or something like that, and point out to yourself where those lines would be sometime. ridiculous looking. anyhow, on to the wheels, have you considered painting part and leaving part bare? as in, paint the face and leave the insides bare metal, or vice versa.. ive got similar rims on my Zcar right now and ive thought about that alot. wouldnt consider painting them all one solid color though. or red, at all... although red black AND gold is not a bad color combination... if you want red stripes and gold wheels... i would say that the best look would be gold stripes, black paint, bare wheels. you might look into painting the insides of the wheels gold, that would be an interesting effect. maybe even red on the insides.. with bare metal faces. i think red and gold wheels would be a bit much though. well, thats what i think. whatever thats worth

no offense taken, it was a remark made in ignorance and i will admit that. i dont know much about toyotas, but i know that i have seen more mazdas that still had the motor in them in the junkyard than i have supras. you catch my point? i see supras, but NEVER one with a motor. it always gets pulled on the way. that, plus im sure ive heard about the headgasket issue you were talking about, and the only person ive known who owned one killed two motors in his... in the end, all the data that _I_ have tells me they blow like lightbulbs. do the soobie motors do, with any fairness i have to say yah. i didnt mean the remark to be so cutting. my only point was that its an expensive motor because demand is high, because alot of them have eaten themselves and gone to the crusher because of it. they might not have holed the block... but they still got crushed. putting myself in your shoes, id have reacted the same way to a datsun remark.

we know youre obsessed, thats why we gave you the idea to do it over two weekends. planning, and patience, plain and simple, is the ONLY way to avoid any "unpredictable snags" that come up during a swap like this. the two weekend idea makes that ideal. my soob is my only vehicle too, but the only thing holding me back from a fivespeed swap is money. that, and i have a question of needing to get to work on my Zcar anyhow.. the soob was always just supposed to be a temporary ride anyhow, or an alternative to help keep mileage low on the datsun when i finished it. i want the fivespeed desparately, too.. it makes economy difference, and it makes every mile so much more enjoyable to me... and i deliver pizzas full time, so we are talkin about 100 miles a day, city driving... I would rather operate a clutch through gridlock then operate my 3AT when suddenly a short path opens up in front of my car....

as far as a replacement alternator.. i saw a photo of one out of a maxima while looking at parts for a friends car. it looked similar enough, and was higher amperage, so the next time i was in a junkyard i test fit one from a maxima into a subaru, and it fit great. chances are, if you see an hitachi alternator that looks about right, it will at least bolt up. the casing size may be limited, because i know the maxima alternator was a slightly tighter fit, but it workes and its 90 amps instead of 60, so hey. bonus. I was also looking at a BMW alternator on the internet once i got the idea, but could not find the vehicle in the junkyard. I figured I would try for a german alt rather than a jap one :- )

+1 for the whole thread. congratulations on your successful experiment, and thanks on behalf of the worldwide subaru community. Now we know, and knowing is half the battle. Please update if you discover any damage to the ecu or any other "catch" that would cause you not to do this again. oh, and good luck with the new car.

thats funny.. of the three cars i have owned now, two of them have had the muffler rust off while driving, so i hear ya.. at least the soob held onto the muffler, my Zcar just spat it out onto the road. i didnt look back :- )

mike: i was wondering if the OZ style setup AC switch would take the place of whatever switches it on in the defrost or dash vent position, thereby making it a "non-dummy" system and let you turn the AC on in any position?? because then its just a matter of importing a swtich setup and lots of other stuff from down under at an exhorbitant rate to fix the issue on the car that i have!! ill just remember to grab some next time i head down to brisbane, right? of course, im being sarcastic.. about the retrofit anyhow.. but im upset that we didnt get a switch like that in the first place. i guess that was my point :- ( thanks for the info though, at least now i know not to expect it to be different with the new vacuum switch i already need to install. and i LIKE to use the floor ac vents.... that sucks.

im holding my 87 subaru gl-10 emblem in my hand it fell off, just like you were hoping :- ) it has two little suds in the back, both of them in the U's... the first one is a bit right of the center of the U channel, and a bit below the center of the middle horizontal line on the B. the second one is near the top of the U channel, set off to the right of the center. I would say its about half the distance to the right side upright, that it is to the left side upright. Im actually planning on taking some photos of my emblem, as it got water damaged really bad, BUT i think i can take some metallic silver model paint, and some black paint, and make it look almost new again. That, plus i got a new trunklid anyhow, off a loyale, so i need to remove the plain SUBARU one. I just checked my old trunklid, and there is also another hole there, next to the first stud. however, there is no trace of a stud in the hole or on the back of the emblem, in the middle of the letter B where the hole corresponds to. how is THAT for a thorough answer?!??? im a windbag, but thats all you could ever want to know about your 87 GL 10 trunk emblem, huh? heh, watch, youve got a wagon and my information is TOTALLY invalid. mine is a sedan, so maybe.

there are four fusible links hanging from the driver's side front strut tower, just behind the battery. they need to be inspected as well. a fusible link is a high current fuse, in the form of a wire. the wire gets burned through. its something modern cars have gotten beyond for the most part, but they should be evenly flexible and feel right.. its a bit hard to describe, but not hard to recognize if ones burnt. theyre supposed to burn through, but hey, lifes funny sometimes. i personally have a problem on my car where occasionally, i try to start and get a bad power connection into the fusible link block.. this has the effect of removing the battery cable. i wiggle things, and get it to work. I'm planning on splicing a block out of the junkyard into the car as a long-term fix for this, but its a VERY occasional problem for me. you said you can crank the motor, so its obviously not the SAME as my little deal.. but if youre missing power at the coil, leave the test light on the + side of the coil and wiggle all the wires around the link block.

the wiring shouldnt be TOO complex to figure out, but the stock relaying shouldnt need to be changed... its just a matter of making a custom adapter harness to take the single piece, three prong plug and plug it into two different two prong lights... right? im not sure im visualizing the back of the headlight assemblies correctly or not

video any hypothetical seminar and put it on the USMB for a $5 donation

LOL, the ER27 (xt6 engine, $2700) is the most expensive engine up there, other than TT 3000GT engines, and turbo supra engines... and those supra motors blow like lightbulbs, and i know my mom's NA mitsu blew a motor in under 100K.... we got a better price than this site for a mitsu motor. that car is AWESOME btw.. she has a 96 3000GT SL (FWD, but the DOHC motor. just shy of the vr-4. not bad for a sixty year old lady, huh?) and even though its heavy, its fast. torque steer is ridiculous though.

i havent done this myself, so i cant tell you. its a topic that gets discussed alot, and i CAN tell you that theres no guarantees.. but im pretty sure you would need to get the sending units and the wiring out of the car that you got the dashboard unit out of. im pretty sure the rest would be OK, as long as its a straight analog to analog swap. the digital to analog swap is fairly complex as i understand it; i have a digidash and i hate it (crummy temp gauge and no oil pressure gauge, for one thing) but its apparently a headache to swap, for me, because of the differences between digi and non. other than the sending units and wiring (which i may be wrong on, but im pretty sure) it should be okay.. but like i said, i havent done it myself. others have. you can try using the advanced search function to look up what others have said in the past. many people are curious what kind of oil pressure they have in their loyale. some of them have found out.

the lock too?? that i didnt think about, even though my soob key starts my datsun (turns the cylinder, nothing starts it right now ) its funny, the lock cylinder in my Z is totally stripped, and any nissan/subaru key will turn it through its positions.. plus you can remove the key in any position with no consequence. I look at that as a feature, to be honest.. its kept me from cutting my car off to go back into my house on a number of occasions...

+1. it doesnt sound as insurmountable now, does it? there ARE gremlins that make things go wrong, but this suggestion makes it two isolated jobs, and there should be literally no difference in the vehicle from changing the rear axle around.. so its a surgical sorta thing.

from what i can see theyre veery similar to the datsun/nissan ones too.. i think its a relatively generic niles part, and ive thought for years that many jap cars may have interchangeable switches.. just not the locks. ive never actually checked anything out, but from what ive seen (and ive paid attention to alot of these things in JYs for the purposes of confirming this theory) its just a matter of whether or not it all lines up right, and switches the same wires in order.

gd--what engine is that? its PURDY... not just your motor there, but i like the overall design. i guess i never got a good head on view of my ea82 when i did the timing belts... but that doesnt look like my recollections for an ea82. ej i take it??

yah no dude, i thought the same damn thing! i thought he was talking about the hatch support strut.. i even read it, thought that, and noticed how close it could be to being misinterpreted as strut cartridge on a hatch... oops. thats funny.

there arent many things in this universe more amusing than seeing a guy in a porsche make himself look like a fool. my dad and i were caravaning down the road here one day, i in my moms taurus wagon (BLECH) and my dad in his 86 300ZX. the Z was stock, NA, fivespeed, but he had short tires on it so it had a bit more pickup than most of em. i was behind him, and he wound up next to a boxter at a redlight.. the boxter wasnt paying much attention to that light, but my dad took of normally when it went green. boxter lagged a bit, so he thought my dad was trying to race him (none of us are sluggish drivers, 'specially off the line at a red light) anyhow, at the next red light, the boxter started revving his engine.. this was a $65K car that was brand new against a (then) 12 yr old NA 300ZX. NOT a real contest (although id take the Z over the boxter any day) and my dad wasnt even really racing him.. just ran hard all the way thru first and second, right up to ~60mph (50mph speed limit.) The porsche kept going, my dad had kept up with him fine 'till he dropped off. What neither of them could see (but i could the entire time) was the sherriff's deputy three cars behind me.. and once my dad shifted from 2nd to 5th and the porsche continued blasting down the street, the cop came tou of the pack like a shark or a barracuda going after a weak fish.....nailed the bugger for better than 70 in a 50 at LEAST. me and my family hate porsches. my uncle has a bumpersticker from an old car of his (the whole bumpers in his apartment as a decoration) that says Im a PorscheBuster! and has a skunk with his nose pinched on it and our Zcars have always been our porschebusters... whether they deserved the name or not.

allright, i guess in retrospect it was pretty obvious how only one missing speed could be from a bad resistor block... i hadnt thought of the possibility of a "bad block" without assuming that meant "burnt resistor" with a complete failure of this resistor block, high speed still works fine right?? thats the important part, those other speeds are just fancypants options anyhow. (no, i dont live in a region with oppressive heat and humidity, honest)

nah, we threadjacked this one bad. sorry. the original poster was just trying to get leads on less expensive machine shop work for his ea-81, then someone said in the course of their comment that you could get used engines from japan for 3-400, someone else asked for a link, and it was all downhill from there. sorry david!