daeron

lets just link the thread, since I am SURE there will be good discussion generated within. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79393

have you checked the TPS?? I noticed that my 3000 post mark is coming up, and since I have gabbed at you dear people SO much in the last year and change, I thought I would do something fitting for the occasion. 6-7 posts per day is alot, especially as long as my average post is... So, since I figured that 3000 RPMs is a common "dead spot" for TPS troubles to start showing themselves, what better subject? Here is my little TPS write-up, complete with cut out from the 89 FSM fragment. The throttle position sensor is an integral part of almost any Electronic Fuel Injection system; our EA82s being no exception. There are two types of TPS: potentiometer style and two contact style. The older, two contact style, is essentially a simple pair of switches: one switch is closed when the throttle plate is closed, indicating "idle" position to the computer; one switch is closed when the throttle plate is all the way open, indicating WOT; when neither switch is closed, it indicates "cruising." This has no relevance to the Subaru community, AFAIK; do the EA81 Turbo cars have a pot-style TPS or the switch style? The TPS in any EA82 Subaru is a potentiometer, essentially a "volume knob." Everyone has had stereos with "crackly" volume knobs, right? The most common mode of failure for this type of TPS is just like the janky volume knob. Basically, you are looking for a "crackle" in your "volume knob." This is USUALLY manifested as either a "surge" or a "fade" at a certain throttle position. Oftentimes, this fade or surge seems to be tied to an approximate engine RPM, but further inspection reveals where it truly lies. The above diagram is for the Naturally Aspirated, SPFI TPS, but the principles are the same for ANY potentiometer style TPS, including those used on the N/A MPFI system, and also the Turbo vehicles. For that matter, the same concepts should apply directly to EJ series vehicles, and honestly, just about any FI car this side of 1980 you come across. You may have a three prong TPS without an idle sensor switch (I think the turbo cars DO have a 3-prong) and in that case, pretend that Terminal A is not there, and perform only the "Throttle Opening Signal" test. The TPS will be located on the throttle body, probably directly opposite the throttle drum (the bit that the cable attaches to) just like it is on the SPFI throttle body; it is just in a different location. There is a possibility that the actual resistance values that are "correct" for the turbo are not the same as the SPFI unit, and there is a chance that "C" and "D" are swapped. However, the important part is where it mentions continuous increase and decrease as the throttle opens and closes. Measure while operating the throttle as slowly as possible, and watch your meter for a "blip." Digital multimeters will work for this, (make sure you are in the right resistance range, Kilo-ohms.) but REALLY an analog meter, with a sweeping needle, is best. The needle should sweep slowly and smoothly, and ANY jarring, jittering, or jiggery of the needle is an indication of a "crackly" spot. Another potential difference is that some vehicles operate the TPS backwards, with a DECREASING resistance coinciding with opening the throttle. In fact, I KNOW that some MPFI Subarus run them backwards, but am unsure which. Comments?? Corrections?? Questions??? This write up is going to be immediately submitted to the USRM, as a link to this thread in the archives, so discuss it up!! if anyone feels like making an appropriate "cut-out" diagram from the FSM for EA81T, EJ series, or EA82T, Post it up! I will gladly go back and edit my original post to reflect any corrections or additions. EDIT any appreciation is appreciated, but lets try to keep off-topic posts to a minimum in this thread, since I posted it specifically to link to for the USRM. If anyone wants to detail replacement procedures, great; if anyone has any corrections or expansions, great, but if you have questions about your car, please just start a new thread.

carb'ed car. I presume NON feedback carb? Shoot the timing on the thing? just to rule it out.. Get a good sized length of hose, stick it in one ear, and fish it around listening for vacuum leaks. Check inside the cabin too, if he was messing with the HVAC controls. A stab in the dark, but at least thats a few guesses BOUND to be a little closer than the previous poster (no offense ProSpeeder :-p)

I shouldn't let this discourage my utter pipe dream of a soobie powered airplane, should I? Naturally I was saddened, but the loss of an individual so removed from my sphere of influence is difficult to mourn. I can't be dishonest about it :-\

brake fade can be combated by adding stainless steel brake lines to replace the rubber hoses. You might want to look into the possibility of retrofitting a master cylinder out of a Nissan.. Say a 280ZX, 300ZX, Maxima, or pickup truck. I have no REASON to believe they would swap easily, but subarus and nissans are first cousins when it comes to cars.. probably more closely related than any other two independent Marques. Just a thought.

srsly, no underhood pics? Denied!

go for launch!!! five hundred dollar BRATs seem to be rare in almost any part of the country, am I right?

Subaru Manifest Destiny. Go West, young Man, in search of new Lands.

Not that I am opposed to doing things the "Irish way" (three ways to do something: the right way, wrong way, irish way: as difficult as humanly possible) BUT, the easy way is to remove the inner DOJ from the axle, but that requires cutting the clamps to that boot and replacing them and probably re packing the DOJ with grease. Which is, honestly a good idea when installing a used axle for longevity... but that isn't an "Irish" thing of me to talk about. You aren't the first to just throw used axles in as is.

@ subject I agree, try letting it burn and watch the oil. I would drain the oil shortly, and put some cheapo 10-30 in, with a bit of sea-foam, and then do an oil and filter change fairly soon after that. Thats my preferred procedure for "breaking in" a JY engine.

But not your dad? in other words, baby momma daddy?

I like to use copper anti seize in between the steel bolt and the aluminum thread. A bench grinder with a wire wheel is always good for cleaning the threads of the bolts, then run the dry cleaned bolt down the thread without the manifold on to clean out the thread, then wipe the bolt off and apply the copper Nev-R-Seez.

have you checked the TPS?? That is for my SPFI TPS, but the principles are the same.. You may have a three prong TPS without an idle sensor switch (I think you do, since it is a turbo car) and in that case, pretend that Terminal A is not there, and perform only the "Throttle Opening Signal" test. The TPS will be located on the throttle body, probably directly opposite the throttle drum (the bit that the cable attaches to) just like it is on the SPFI throttle body; it is just in a different location. There is a possibility that the actual resistance values that are "correct" for the turbo are not the same as the SPFI unit, and there is a chance that "C" and "D" are swapped. However, the important part is where it mentions continuous increase and decrease as the throttle opens and closes. Measure while operating the throttle as slowly as possible, and watch your meter for a "blip." The TPS is a potentiometer, essentially a "volume knob." Everyone has had stereos with "crackly" volume knobs, right? You are looking for a "crackle" in your "volume knob."

Humbling! I wonder how easily this valve would retrofit onto various other vehicles... Hmmm...

Rubber making a grinding noise???? Try to spin the idlers and tensioners as hard as you can with your fingers.. they should roll, roll, roll like well broken in roller skate wheels. Minimal noise. ANY play in these bearings is cause for replacement. If you can break the nut loose and press the bearings out, you can source new bearings for MUCH less than the individual tensioner or idler would cost.. its just a matter of finding a place to buy them. ALL bearings are sold based on thickness, inner diameter and outer diameter, and speed rating, so it is just a matter of "matching them up."

145 ft-pounds minimum. From what I have read, there IS no maximum. If your wrench is 12-18 inches long, you should HAVE to STAND on it; unless you weigh 250+ pounds and even then standing on it shouldn't hurt anything. I weigh a slight 140; I used a three foot cheater bar on the end of my pipe wrench. (couldn't find a 34mm socket up at the shop, so no torque wrench )

should be gapped right from factory, 0.036-.044 IIRC. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2.

Seriously, the resemblance is uncanny.. I think this may be my avatar's long lost cousin, Russ T Pipes!!! EDIT allright, allright, I'll go to bed and stop troubling you with the nonsensical ravings of a lunatic mind. :-p

unless the linear channels of the key are buggered, I cannot imagine a new key would go in any easier than the present one.. do any of your keys go into the cylinder with ease? Have you picked up a can of sea foam deep creep yet? I havent used it on a lock mechanism yet, but that, and graphite lube, are the only other two things I can think of. My vote is new cylinder time.. maybe if you could let the old one sit in an ultrasonic cleaner with some mineral spirits or diesel fuel, and then re lube it, it MIGHT work good... but I doubt it. The guy has probably been "coping" with it like this for so long its beyond repair, but thats just my two bits. Who made these cylinders??? Datsuns and Subarus both seem to have the same problems with them.. I know Nissans locks were still godawful at LEAST up into the 80s. Both here, and on my Z-car forum, there are so many people who have pictures of their car when they first got it, complete with the screwdriver they used as a "key." Call the Locksmith!!!

Open mouth, insert foot. Mrfff ffrrmmm mfrrmrmmf. Frmmmmmmmm.

the caption of the video said 1800.... I don't want to actually express doubt; EJ is certainly the obvious call to make, but it said 1800 turbo. thats it. start with a 2500 pound car, we have no idea if anything was stripped out of it, it isnt THAT hard to remove the speakers and AC and rear seat and passenger seat and etc etc... and just because the EA82T isnt the most RELIABLE engine to mod does not mean it is impossible to make power with it. 170 wheel horses would make a 2200 pound leone scoot like a bat out of hell, and he only posted a 12.99.. (you guys DO still run 1/4 mile drag strip, right?? its not like, a half kilometer or something metric like that is it?) I am more disappointed in the show but no go of the skyline. 13.5?? feh. gimme an RB in my 280Z and I'll push that mutha down into low 12s EASY. Of course, the turning of the wheel is the important part.

dude, it looks like its talking!!!!

Wise. I linked you to the FSM already, didn't I? That is where I read how to "check" them. Should be in "part 1.pdf"

but as an end user, am I right? I think so, but I was posing a question, not just being a smartass about it, heh....

Apologies, maybe I should have said "clarification" not "correction;" THAT was what I meant anyhow. I just didnt want anyone reading that and thinking "autozone brand good!" OR thinking that autozone was the only place to get them. Thats all.