porcupine73

Especially look at your rear tires. I'm pretty sure your soob has the VLSD viscous limited slip rear diff. If the rear tire circumferences are different by much, it may be heating up the silicone oil quite a bit at high speed driving, thus sort of locking the rear axles together, and causing rumbling/wheel hoping/etc from the different tire circumferences?

Hello John and to the board! Is this a manual trans or auto trans vehicle? How many miles? Are all your tires the same brand, nominal size, treadwear, and proper air pressure? (they must all match within 1/4" circumference when measured with a tape measure otherwise AWD issues can occur).

hehe, it was kind of short notice. Here's what the little plastic pop fasteners on '00obw look like.:

OEM part is 23700AA31ARA ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY REMAN FOR 2000-2002 LEGACY Automatic Trans 2.5, online Subaru dealer price seems to be ~$200-250 excluding core charge.

I think a discharged battery especially if the electrolyte is too high on the water side (not enough acid), then it can freeze. Maybe that's why yours looks buldged. Right on if you need the alt right away to make the vehicle driveable then whatever the local parts stores have may be your only choice, though parts store alts aren't the greatest. You could check with your local Subaru dealer (if you have one locally), but dealer prices on walk-in sales is usually pretty high. Also, I would suggest as you are doing your testing, etc., to put your battery charger on the battery on its lowest setting (ie 2 amps or whatever) to keep it charged. A low/weak battery you want to slowly bring back up. If the battery is dead/discharged when you put in the new alt its going to charge it like crazy and may reduce battery and alt life.

Sounds good! Main suggestion is to use a large phillips head screwdriver that fits it well. You ideally don't want to strip out that plastic thing. It's not expensive but if you damage it, it can be hard to find a replacement. Also I don't know if it's a good idea but I like to put a little bit of silicone grease on the threads and gasket of this plug when reinstalling.

Did any of these issues exist before replacing the axle? What brand replacement axle did you use? Here's a Subaru brake troubleshooting chart:

Hm...actually for '99 it doesn't appear to be a different timing belt part # for calif/non-calif. Which of these two belts below do you have, and does it match the engine you have 2.2L or 2.5L? 13028AA072 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1999 LEGACY 2.5 ONLY 13028AA230 TIMING BELT FOR 1999 LEGACY 2.2 ALL

Right on, make sure you got the california timing belt. For that vehicle, always give your VIN# to the dealer when getting parts and make them look up the correct part # for that vehicle. I'll look up the timing belt part #'s in a second so you can see which one you got. Also there is a good article on http://www.endwrench.com for 2.2L timing (not necessarily california specific) that I'll look up and post. edit: I see sea# 3 already got it! If you got to http://www.endwrench.com, click archives, and search for 'timing' there's several articles).

Hello! I have a '96 2.2L too. The vent plug you are seeking is in the pic below with the large red-handled screwdriver in it.

Right on, get the correct OEM Subaru reman alternator from a dealer. You can look up the OEM part # on such sites as http://www.subarupartsforyou.com just so like nipper said you don't get given an impreza or some other alt. Also right on, many warning lamps get their ground through the alternator field circuit so you may see flickering and such on other lamps when the alt is getting ready to crater. Also I think the ABS monitors voltage and illuminates its lamp if it sees it out of tolerance.

Hi nipper. Spring work indeed! Subaru fever. You probably already have seen the endwrench article about using the slide hammer puller method http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf I think hohieu has done it with the hub tamer gadget. harbor freight sells something like the hub tamer but not sure if it has all the right size adapters and such. Getting that big lateral link bolt out in the rear always seems to be a issue (not sure if that's necesary if using the hub tamer/slide hammer method) See I didn't even post any pics in this thread yet

Does it begin with E and end with N?

hehe, well I don't use the gallery either; I use a host that I have a bunch of other stuff on, as it is more convenient. I think the basics of picture posting are 1. crop - if your pic has lots of grass and sky or other irrelvant stuff, crop it out 2. try 'auto correct' - if the pic is too light or dark auto correct (if the pic editing software supports it) may help. If it looks worse just undo it. 3. resize - typically no more than 700px wide is best for forums. Some people (ie me) are running still running a relatively low 800x600 resolution. Yes there might be a few still at 640x480 but you can't make all the people happy all the time. 4. use the right format - jpg is good for pictures. gif works nicely for diagrams or computer screenshots.

Nice! Say what part # is your nos sniper kit? The ones on ebay there have nice prices, esp for a wet shot. On summitracing similar kits go for more than twice that much?

Hi Skip yes that software looks pretty nice! I've been using ms office picture manager it seems ok for basic tasks. Another nice free one though it is a little clunky to use is irfanview. Does photobucket and such places have a time limit on how long they serve pictures? The nice thing pics as attachments to posts or links to the gallery here is that they are always available with the post.

Wow I hope you weren't hurt. Sorry about the soob. That's a nice one.

It's rusted into the hub. Water may have gotten in there somehow and corroded it. It's surprising how little rust it takes to make it nearly impossible to separate them. Coat the new axle splines with grease or antisieze to make it easier to get out if it needs to come out again.

Right on, that'd be hydraulic.

He is running the wet shot. That is definitely the smart way to go.

Hello. The soft lines are hydraulic hose that came with the amsoil bypass filter kit. They have some hydraulic fitting called JIC that kind of threads onto the hose. Normal hose barb type connections are not suggested for engine oil. If you want to buy your adapters locally, pepboys might be a place to check out. I bought their meter fittings kit a few years ago, it was like $8 and i think it had the two fittings you'd need (along with a bunch of other metric and assorted fittings). Also at certain Carquest stores I have noted a fairly good selection of such fittings.

Right on, the other factor for auto trans, esp auto trans with miles, is how much power they can take before the clutches start slipping. That will chew up an auto trans fast. Normally the trans, if it detects slipping, will bump up line pressure to the max to try to stop slipping. Then you might get harder shifts but it may take the power. In manual trans of course the clutch has only so much holding power as well.

Ah ok yes I understand. I think I did see this sort of adapter on my soobs too but I don't remember for sure.