porcupine73

Hm..maybe not all codes go into history. What kind of code reader are you using? I can double check I was pretty sure when I hooked up my cheap pepboys actron scanner it showed some of my previous codes. Maybe you could drive around with your code reader connected so you can pull over when the light comes on and scan for codes immediately?

Thanks as always nipper. I looked directly at nos site and as you said it says that kit is for turbo only as it's the 'wet shot' injecting extra gasoline along with the nitrous. They also have a 'dry shot' kit for non-turbos 05122NOS but Summit doesn't have it...I'll have to look around. Ths nos site does say "Not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled motor vehicles in the United States." edit: Summit does have the dry kit. Summit just doesn't list Subaru as an application for the kit, althought the NOS web site does. It ranges various Acura, Honda, etc engines from 1.5L to 2.0L. One web site I saw indicates the setup relies on the ECU going into open loop air/fuel ratio control at full throttle....anyone know if Subaru 2.2L and 2.5L engines do this?

Any thoughts on nitrous oxide n2o nos in a new gen Subaru? Such as this NOS EFI kit from Summit? Maybe it would be a nice little boost without being too much for the engine and drivetrain to handle? The kit appears to have various fuel and nitrous jets that you selectively install based on fuel pressure and desired boost level. There's other kits available with larger bottles: seems to cost about $100 extra for 15lb bottle and another $100 for 20lb bottle.

Hm...didn't know that about the cv's if whipping nuts in reverse. * The Triple Chocolate Donut is currently only available in Canada.

Yes I find it hard to resist buying this vehicle. I don't see the XT's in this area very often at all, much less ones for sale. I would prefer a MT though. I like that black. The only real thing standing in the way is funding...I could finance it but I don't really want any more debt so I guess I'll wait...

What ya'll think of this '04 Forester 2.5XT AT 62k miles? Spotted it on eBay, been sort of dreaming about a 2.5XT 'cause they're fast. Plus it's close enough to me for local pickup.

Yes that post title is enough to make one double over. Nonetheless whilst whipping nuts without much fuel it must be that the fuel pump suction pulls air. Perhaps a foam/baffled fuel cell would work better? Or a full tank. Even then whipping nuts should be done with great care. Was this forward or reverse nut whipping? mmm....Timmy's donits...

It can be easy to strip these threads. The torque is low compared to steel. My experience is that by hand feel the torque feels good then all of a sudden lets go and whoops it's stripped threads. Haven't heard of that particular loctite product but it sounds good. A few wraps of teflon tape around the bolt might be enough to allow snugging it up as well.

Right on nipper. Good info on the 2.2.

Dang those are some nice pics! I replaced the ECTS on my '96 brighton; it was a little bit of a pain but with a good selection of sockets and extensions it is doable without removing much stuff.

Well there's one way to tell for sure: get the code read. Autozone etc will read it for free. Even if the light isn't on currently, it doesn't matter: the code will be in the history. Anything else is simply guessing, but a common cause (esp. if no apparant driveability issues) is P0420 catalyst efficiency. Also I"m sure you know you're right at the timing belt replacement interval if it hasn't been done already.

Hello and welcome! The 15 inch rims should work provided they 5 lug. If you switch to larger rotors, you will have to change calipers and mounting brackets - the existing won't fit over the larger diameter rotors. Legacy springs I think are a little shorter than the Outback springs and possibly a different rate.

Is the timing belt part number different for U.S. vs other spec vehicles? It is possible they are made from different materials. Generally the >100k mile recommended service intervals have to do with emissions specs such as Calif. where certain items cannot have required maintenance intervals of less than 100k miles.

You could try an autozone or someplace like that for free code reading. Yes you have a '95 but lots of '95 Suby's ODBII compliant maybe with a glitch or two. There should be one front and one rear o2 sensor. Generally you would replace the front one first and if still getting P0420 then replace rear. Front is for air fuel ratio control in closed loop; rear is simply for 'catalyst efficiency.' That's an easy one. From an online Subaru dealer such as http://www.subarugenuineparts.com or http://www.subarupartsforyou.com

steering - replacing the fluid would be a cheap thing to try. Note of course these units use ATF - _not_ power steering fluid. check engine light - if it's the 'below efficiency' P0420 code and replacing the front o2 sensor didn't make it go away, you may also need to replace the rear sensor. Probably nothing to worry about. This is a known issue and Subaru has issued a Bulletin about it. Some hydraulic circuit draining or something and rpm's might flare on the first 2-3 upshift.

IACV is idle air control valve. It can get gummed/crudded up with carbonaceous stuff, as can the throttle butterfly. Doesn't hurt to clean this stuff with throttle body cleaner (not anything that says only 'choke cleaner'). Not sure the IACV would cause an issue at freeway speeds, though I think the air to atomize the fuel from the injectors might still come from the IACV irregardless. Rough IACV location is shown from my '96 2.2L below; '00obw is similar location:

Hm.....I have an '00obw too and I'd have to say on the freeway driving as you stated I don't really notice the a/c compressor cycling, at least not a shudder like you stated. Maybe the compressor is having some issues and requiring more input shaft power to operate than normal? Do you think the a/c belt is slipping? I've had that happen on my '96 suby and it'll squeak a bit until the compressor starts rotating, but it robs like 50% of the power for a second until it does start rotating and is very noticeable.

If you can get on my.subaru.com and register your vehicle you can see any previous service history they have records for, which would be mostly the dealer or owners can enter their own info too. It may or may not indicate whether the timing belt was done at the time. Obviously the whether or not the timing belt was replaced would depend on whether the customer was told the belt should be replaced and whether or not the customer was willing to pay for at least the new belt? Anyway, if you're at the timing belt replacement interval and there is any question as to whether or not the timing belt was replaced previously, you really must replace it or risk the consequences.

How's about refilling the cooling system under vacuum? It's mentioned in an EndWrench article and it seems like a neat idea, i.e. if there's little air in the cooling system it can't really get trapped. Mityvac and others sell kits to do this, but of course they're $$. I've assembled but not yet tested a poor man's version using harbor freight and mcmaster.com components.

If you want to tee in, the optimal place would be either right after the fuel filter outlet, or possibly on the fuel pressure regulator return line to the tank. You could put a top quality ball valve optimally rated for gasoline I suppose though I don't know if there is such a thing. This obviously is not a place to skimp on anything since fuel leaks, well, could make the entire vehicle go up in flames. Maybe with a hose barb fitting after the ball valve so you can run some hose into your tank. I've thought about this sort of setup too since it would be nice for if there's a power outage to withdraw gasoline for your generator. And it's much more 'stealthy' to refill your vehicle with 15 gallons of gasoline than several cans. And the metal FM rated cans fare much better in fires than the plastic ones which tend to melt and spill their contents.

Hi Max Power. I was just doing this same job today for the first time. It seemed easiest to get the boot ring in place with the piston fully seated. Plus with it fully seated you can spead that lucious niglube all over the place without risking getting it into the caliper bore. Putting the boot ring on seemed to be a bit of the pain. It needs to be compressed to a small enough diameter to get it into the groove. But it seemed tough to get the ring to seat into/onto the boot groove. It liked to mash the boot back into the groove rather than sit in the groove. If that makes any sense.

Right on. It should work acceptably in open loop ableit with possibly not optimal mileage. It knows roughly/crose enough how much fuel is needed for the air coming in and the conditions. The O2 sensor just lets it control the A/F ratio with feedback. Maybe on the 1990 it's not an emissions item (i.e. an item 'requiring' the CEL.MIL to come on)?

You might also want to get the code(s) read for your CEL/MIL. Some parts stores will read them for free. Are you replacing the plugs too or just the wires? The plugs can be a little tricky on that vehicle, though I hear there are holes in the fenders to allow easier access.

When cold make sure coolant level is full under radiator cap (not just overflow tank). Check for radiator obstructions by running warm and using point and shoot thermometer (cheap at harbor freight). Could also be thermostat intermittently failing closed or more closed than it should. Was the water pump replaced previously? The slime:

Yah I accidentally scratched one of the surfaces for the cam seal. I just put a little permatex ultra grey on it and pounded the seal in. No leaks, but it wasn't much of a scratch. I wouldn't use JBweld unless absolutely necessary; the rtv can still be removed relatively easily - not so the jbweld.