86BRATMAN

Did somebody say something about upgarding sway bars? http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/swaybars.htm

On the axle, one side will have a indention where the pin goes in, the other side should be smooth. Drive it in and out from the indented side.

I believe you could get the clip off with a small nosed needle nose plier. I've got an old school c clip tool so I've never really tried.

Depending on the miles, and the fact that you are asking this. Now. They are almost 9 years old, and probably not as efficent as they should be.

Remove the axle boot from the cup, feel around for the metal clip that holds the cup on the joint. Remove said clip and pull cup off. Clean what grease is left out of everything. You'll see a c-clip at the end of the shaft, this has to come. Then you can slide the whole joint off.

Thats how me and Ashley did it. But it was me, her, and the preacher and his wife. I'm not a big fan of getting all dressed up or spending boat loads of money on stuff that can be done simply and painlessly.

I'm trying to talk the wifey into it:grin: My only dislike about that one is its a 2wd model.

Really, looks like there prices have changed a little bit then...

I've got one laying around as well if you don't have any luck at the bone yard.

Its not that hard to do actually. It can be a pain to get it mounted right though. I think I have some pics somewhere of my 95 I'll try and locate...

I knew you'd come around to the ol' boy. I could see it in your eyes that the love was back for him. BTW, I looked through the local sale paper today, 88 4wd wagon for parts for $150...

All the lights will swap out. Headlight design changed for the 92 model, you'd have to get the corner light from them as well IIRC. Tails changed in that year too, there are some interesting variations availible. The center as a tag mount is EDM(european domestic market). And some others.

Galax is just over an hour from here. The entire piece would be too long by three inches for a hatch, but... When you go to talk to him, ask about just those back pieces. I could probably manage to hack some off or a j/y car if need be.

Nah, the under car supports for the stock jack spots. I may have miss read what you were saying, but I thought that was one of the spots you were talking about

The two of them seem really happy, I meant to tell you before but Tom really reminds me of one of my older brothers.

They still use the same design as the ea81 and other ea82 stuff.

The rear jack points on the hatch and brat are close enough that one patterned from yours could be used, maybe with some slight mods.

One of my friends really, really needs to learn that as well. I can't stand to ride with him...

I'll go ahead and say that the e-brake will have no bearing at all on the clunk as it works the front wheels. Check the bushings on the mustache bar, and the one on the front mount for the rear diff as well. It might not be a bad idea to check the rear halfshafts for excessive play as well.

The best fix for any plastic radiator is a metal one. I've seen plastic radiators over time erroding from the inside and start to leak.

The only real place it will be any different is on pull out. Other than that don't pop your clutch, or try to bark the tires. A simple smooth clutch release is all you need.

Oh of these days, lol. I must admit, it was great to be able to see and touch a mobile XT6 again. It brought a smile to my face will be there for a while:)

Let me know how he does and how much it costs. I could use a good replacement set for the rear of the hatch

Glad to see you made it securely. The junk yard axle definately is a good idea with a 2wd car in case of total failure.

Looks good. I like it, reminds me of mine, lol.