86BRATMAN

My integra got to see 8500 on a multiple time a day basis. LOL.

I wouldn't pay more than that for an unrestored rust free brat. If its got rust, the value goes down a lot depending on where and how much. Hatches are cheaper than brats. If somebody wants $3k for a hatch, it better have an ej in it and be immaculate, lol.

Do you have any codes, or have you hooked up the cel yet. If its the sensor it will let you know that way.

Either upload attatchments to the thread, load them into your photo gallery, or use an outside photo host i.e photobucket.com or some of the others.

See, I have the same trouble. These cars look good in so many colors. For the hatch I've tossed around all black, yellow with black hood, a variation of wr blue, graphite. And probably a few I've forgotten, I think when the day comes time, I'm just gonna buy the paint and not look back.

You could try unioning it somewhere near the back. Use some of the tubing connectors, feril(sp?) fittings like for propane, I've seen it done before with good results.

The only union I know of on them is up at the firewall. I'm assuming this is on your loyale.

I just looked at your gallery again. Are you not running a maf? What kind of management do you have?

Yeah, those lines definately should not look like that. I hope this turns out well for you. And I would also push for a properly reman'd unit for replacement.

GD, do you remember how much shorter the d/s is on the auto car?

Looking at the wires from the ea81t pump and connector, they are definately bigger than n/a ea81 wires. It wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and run new.

I'm sorry, I had to pick:) . I like those trucks before they turned into a rebadged Ranger.

As long as you remove the sensor from the car, and don't put it back on until the cleaner has evaporated then you have nothing to worry about. Then again, I've used carb cleaner in efi cars before and never hurt anything.

I am not delusional. And I have never in my life used synthetic motor oil. And have seen cars well into the 300K mile range running dino 10w-30 Valvoline. As a matter of fact, that perticular 90 legacy is still being driven by the fellow that bought it from my parents in 1999.

Hey, Wait, that mazda isn't a sube...

I'm not a carb guy, at least when they break. I just don't fully trust myself when it comes to the tuning. But this fine fellow may have caught a break, there is a full weber kit in the classifieds. If it isn't sold already. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77878

It is odd I haven't seen it. Their place is only a few hours away from me... Might have to order some the next time I know I'm getting into trouble spots just to try it... Thanks!!! I'm always up for trying new stuff:grin:

Where do you find this. I haven't noticed it around here. And of my two the sea foam is gretched smelling.

We all know you left coasters want all the good stuff to stay with you. But I have taken a solumn vow with the subaru gods that when the day comes that I bring one out here, it will NEVER see the roads in the winter weather.

Here in the rust belt, wd-40 is useless. PB Blast or Sea Foam Deep Creap are the only things I've found that will touch the rust welds the belts get here. Plan on replacing at least the long bolt on the bottom.

Before you spend any money on a fix yourself, call your local subaru dealer and ask the service department about the pcv recall from the late 80's. If it hasn't been performed they have to do it for you on their dime.

The way they are set up, I don't think there is a stop on them. You could make on for it thoug.

Don't get too excited D, the last post was yesterday, lol...

IIRC all the hydralic clutch systems similar, except fot push/pull(n/a:turbo) action. You should be able to get that to work for you. I've adjusted the catch point on hydro clutch cars before, just not subaru.

An ea81 auto tranny mount can be made to work for the rear brace. 88Hatchmonster used the stock ea81 ptich stopper in his hatch. IIRC.