86BRATMAN

I dog the crap out of just about everything I get in. Whenever I return mom's car she;s always talking about how much better it runs and how it gets better mileage for a while. Its just an autobahn tune-up, lol

A motor can safely hold a redline burst. Its past that where things get stresses. Subaru(and all auto makers) put in a lot of r&d into motors and what they can safely do.

Yeah, We've had a rainy july down here. I haven't managed to get anything at all done, except pull some bolts.

Another option is an spfi swap from an ea82 car.

Some clutches catch high and some catch low. Just depends on the brand and design usually.

About the axle length question. He's running either xt6 or ej axles, I forget which, but they match his front 5 lug stuff.

They've got the same pump pressure as an mpfi.

Are you getting power to the ignitor? It could be that it has gone bad, or not getting proper ground. Just a thought.

I don't know what penitrating oil selection you have availible down under. But wd40 is outdated these days. I swear to either PB Blast or Sea Foam Deepcreap. Either can de-weld rust-welded bolts in a matter of minutes.

There is no point whatsoever in letting a good axle go bad just because you can install a new one when it goes bad. Besides, he's already got a big mess in there from the boot rupturing the first time. The method I'm saying is not a long term band aid. I'm talking like if your boot breaks monday and you won't have time or money to fix it untill the weekend or next paycheck. It will keep the dirt, water, and grime out of the joint and allow you to save money by not buying another axle when you've still got a good one with a bad boot. Boot kit $30+ 3hours for a newb, and a big mess you clean up > $130 on a new(not reman as they are usually crap) axle+ 1.5 hours for a newb. The line of thinking you are speaking is the reason so many of our subes fall into a state of disrepair. "Why fix today what I can put off untill it breaks" I have to listen to this line from my dad whenever I suggest preventative maintainence on my mom's 98 Legacy. It erks me to no end.

Late 80's early 90's. Up untill 93 when they changed the spring design on the accord. You'll want to use the front prings. In all actuallity, almost any honda civic/acura integra spring from 88-00 will be about the same as the accord ones.

The car should be firing at 20 degrees without the green connectors plugged, I believe. And 8 with them plugged. The rotor button should point at cyl #1 wire at tdc. I goofed one by a couple teeth on an ea81, it would run like a dog at idle and not make any power till about 3k.

On my moms 98 legacy, I removed the majority of them (carefully) with my cut of tool. Just cut off the bolt locations and straps and they came off relatively easy.

It should be dead on zero if memory serves, and timing adjustments made at the disty itself. And by the advance system in it.

The guys at the mexican resturant recommended it, go figure...

I've never had those... I don't think vodka and chocolate would mix very well... Vodka and oj, nuther story...

I tried Miller Chill a few weeks ago. If you like corona its worth a try.

If your car ends up throwing a knock sensor code, it is a bad sensor. Procupine posted up somewhere how to "trick" the ecu with a resistor into thinking it has a good knock sensor. Or if you feel more comfortable buying and installing a new sensor try www.rockauto.com They are pretty reasonable from there.

They should be permanently fix to the morro itself. Somebody has probably overtightened it and broke it off or broke it out of the housing. If you remove the mirror from the car, you may be able to repair/replace the broken one.

So I guess, for you, It's never "miller time"

It is supposed to help keep old seals fresh. I've used it a time or two in various cars with good results.

Check your exhaust heat shielding. It gets loose over time and will rattle very badly.

You better not. Hell you better not be drinking either. You're too young.

It was suggested in a similar thread to get a plastic bag, heavy trash bag would be my choice, and wrap it around the joint. Put some grease in there and tape it up for insurance before you do the boot.

At 0 i believe it should be pointing at #1.