86BRATMAN

Tom, as with any body repair, make sure you completely remove all the rust and affected metal. Or it will come back.

Weber?

Dad use to run those on his 88 GL wagon. I thought they looked too meaty. But they did give a little more clearance.

It would have the letters LSD on there with the ratio. For a 3.9 to have an lsd it would either have to be converted, or from an xt6 that had the option, or from a turbo legacy and the t-leg is a vlsd.

They are held on with the double sided adhesive stuff.

Ok, so those are different than what I've worked on. They sell the rubber coating for bulbs at some parts stores that would do the job then. Thanks for straightening me out.

There's nothing wrong with changing stuff. Its what makes the car your own style. But to truely change the color you'd have to get new plastic made and tinted to your liking.

The problem you'll probably run into with the blue bulbs for the dash is that most clusters have tinted plastic that the lights shine through. You won't really change it to blue, it'll be a mixture of blue and stock color to make whatever color it will be.

It could be slightly off. Maybe too advanced, or retarded. Causing missfiring low down, but still running decent up in the rpm range.

The struts look the same to my eyes. Just have to keep the bracket for the wire and bolt it up on the new strut.

Ask a wrx owner about abusing thier transmissions. They will take it for a while, but they will eventually give out.

No matter which turbo motor you decide to swap in, you will either have to integrate the new motor's engine harness and ecu into it, or run a standalone managment. For the legacy, doing that swap wouldn't be much different that what us ej converters do in the older stuff. Just less stuff that has to be engineered.

I think you should leave the wheels silver with either hood color option. Those wheels just plain look sexy on there.

Personally I like the black hood with different color car.

Its just another debate that has no end really. Except for the amount of money to be spent. The only real advantage the 257 has is displacement.

torque options... torque steer, torque flex, torque ok my mind went blank

Auto, 5mt, 2wd, Turbo. If its from a legacy the axle will work. All the legacy axles have the same spline count(25) on the trans side and the same spline count at the hub end. And they are the same length. As long as its good, it'll do perfect for you.

Most of your run of the mill relays have 4 wires. Ground, Power, Signal, and Output. You'll need to know which is where on the realy itself. Find a good ground and hook it up. Power should be a 12+ fused off the battery for your system. Signal will be the wire from the control box that powers either the horn or lights depending on which one you are doing at the time. And output goes to the positive input for the light or horn.

If I see a pic with a rear window mounted ac unit in a brat with a generator in the bed. I'm coming for you....

I wonder if he dropped the ac unit on his leg and thats why he needs those crutches in the back seat...

See now you're gonna bring a dsm into this discussion. They are quick cars, yes. The can take a beating, no. They will ever live to 300k with no major engine problems, not even if left stock and driven by a little old lady. My comment was meant to say 22t>257. I wouldn't trade my mine(or my spare) for one.

For that, Wikipedia: see bastard.

In all honest, after you get the hang of it you'll probably like it better than regular bondo. I'd much rather do repairs with it than trying to bend sheet metal. And I'm better with glass than sheet metal too(you've seen my curve making ability with metal).

Crusty connections, or bad bulb sockets would be my first look. I've suffered from both with my 2 eye to 4 eye swap.

Hold almost 30 psi on stock internals. I think not.