86BRATMAN

if you've got your welding skills down by the time the motor comes along, that part of it will be easy.

I just bought an 89 XT, had a small wiring issue and pretty gecent shape body and livible interior for $350

Drain the transmission fluid, remove lower ball joints, and pry the alxes out with a small pry bar. They are slip in style, held with a circlip like the 96+ rear axles on our cars. If the axles warrent replacement while you're doing this you'll have to remove the front strut mount fork from the lca and strut.

Can't say for sure because I can't see what you are looking at. But I can say with all certainty that the hill holder cable goes nowhere near where you are talking about

I must say thats a nice looking setup you've got there!

You are correct, frame rail modifiaction is required to fit in dohc motors.

For this car in particular. it would require dropping the entire k-member, and the front and rear crossmembers it attaches to. I've done more motor swaps and tranny swaps(mostly in hondas) than some kids my age have seen neon lighting. Having an extra set of hands is helpful, but its not required to do it in the method I described.

Sad to tell you Rob, it has to come put as a unit. I've had so many transverse mounted removal and installs that it comes second nature to me. But axles, shift cables, driveshaft, and all that fun stuff has to be disconnected. You'll also have better luck getting it all out if you have a good balencer on the hoist, and let the tranny side hang lower than the motor side. And installgoes about the same way. It hasn't been but maybe two months ago I put a motor into the black talon you can see in my pics of the XT here, so if you need any input along the way pm me and I can give you some help, or at least moral support.

Any chance of you posting it over here. I'm not gonna register for a new forum.

Might want to take off the pitch stopper before you lift the engine so you don't risk damaging it.

Video of idling and a few revs. http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o255/86bratman/?action=view&current=2007_0824xt0003.flv

I wasn't going to be happy until I found exactly where it failed... So I started using some jumpers from the ecu plug to different sections of the factory harness. I found it to be a corroded connection where the two white wires join together. I cut out a few inches of the wiring, and spliced and soldered in replacement. And heat shrink tubing covered and taped the hell out of it. So now all is well, no cel's and purrs like a kitten... I'm actually amazed at the absence of tod:eek:

Congrats Connie. I bet it feels like a different world in there compared to Rocky and Bucky. ps. if you read this before you go to work in the morning, drop me a pm and remind me to call about those bloody wheels. Its been a long hecitc week...

I'm scared now. I get to fly across country for all of this. Looks like I better book a month...No d/r on the xt6, it is as close to an ej tranny as you can get without really having one.I would still consider finding an ej tranny because ot the much larger clutch options availible. Most anything to handle great ammounts of power for an ea/er tranny will have to be a custom job. If you want to get by without modifying the chassis rails you can just get the ej22t heads ported. I dunno about the whole big rollbar, if you're gonna go that big, think exoskelton.I'm probably think up some other stuff but its been a rough week.

I wonder what these guys with ea81's could possibly want with an ea71?

Actually, if the speedo he is offering is from an ea81 GL dash it will work. They are the same setup as yours just read mph in big numbers.

Best I can remember they are about 2" long.

The bolt head on the carrier bearing should be 14mm. Thats what they've been on the gen1 legacy's I've taken apart.

It is true that sitting cam make seals leak when a car is put back into use. But doing a reseal on these motors is suber easy. The ones to watch out for are front and rear main seals, oil pump, and valve covers. On the gen1's there is no way that I'm aware of to tell if it has rolled over, as they only have 5 digits. Chances are at this age it has at least rolle over once.

The suzuki swift is a geo metro.

You have the classic symptoms of headgasket failure.

Thanks Connie, I think for this part of the quest the diagrams that Gloyale posted here, and the one that ElroyJetson posted on the temp site have gotten me through the task. I'll definately keep your offer in mind if something else comes up.

Difenitely not. I picked up the supplies I needed a little earlier tonight. Barring more rain tomorrow it should be fully fixed, even with my temp crappy fix the cel is gone.

There are people who have ran staged clutch kits(stiffer than the stock 2.5) through cable system. The hydralics is just simply for smoother opperation, and less possible breaking of stuff. I personally wonder what too subaru so long to convert them all over to hydraulic, Honda for one has been cable free since 1994 through the entire line. There isn't any issue with head clearance, or anything like that, the cable doesn't come close to the heads in all reality.

Since you'll have the engine out to replace the seperator. It would be a good time to do the rear main, and all the front seals and t-belt. Check the seal on the transmission for seepage while its apart and replace acordingly.