98obster

should be a fabric loop in the center of the seat-just reach you finger down and feel for it .

you forgot to mention the plugs look normal.

I have done a "reverse" flush by disconnecting the driverside hose to the heater core and flushing with a garden hose.

So, sort of on the same subject. my 98 2.2 operates around 182 deg F in the warmer months but I am noticing with the sub zero weather were having that the temperature it prefers is around 191 F. Just wondering if anyone knows why it would go up with the heater core/fan engagement. Just to experiment, if I turn off the heater and turn the dial into the blue then the temperature goes back down toward 182. what's up? thanks.:-\

thanks for the update. I think this falls under the Subaru "tough" Love category. kinda hope you throw a rod (cold cylinder walls don't really like 4k rpm)

willing to bet you have/had some coolant on the radiator from filling up-hard to keep a few drops etc from escaping the filler cap. make sure the AT dipstick (I assumed it is auto) is in place if you think you had power steering fluid all over the place. just make sure all pieces are back in place after the open heart surgery. edit: a year ago? I have no idea-white smoke = coolant. you can't see it before it's gone-what does it smell like under the hood?

I think you meant P0270. (#4 injector circuit low input). question: did you also unplug the #4 plug wire? so, I sounds like with everything plugged in, you had a semi-functioning cylinder-at least until the spark plug fouls-I wonder what it looks like.

hey, I'm wondering if this is the plate you are looking for. I think it's off an 84 or 85. if you fab on then you are probably looking for more coverage than this 18" long, front bolts 11.75", rear bolts 2.5":

picked up a set of long punches from Harbor Freight that included a 3/16" perfect for punching through (your results may vary of course) oh, the set was like $6

a question, where is the fuel pressure measured-before or after the fuel filter? kinda sounds like a vacuum leak or too lean (good ole not enough choke on a cold engine like). how about cranking it for a couple seconds and stopping and then trying it again, instead of trying to start it from one long try?

+1000 exactly, and you could prolly find a newer tranny too. edit: -18F in Greeley, CO tonight. glad I have 4 cylinders

If you continue to drive, you have the advantage of knowing how your engine is going to eventually die, cause I don't think it's going to heal itself. I constantly think my timing belt is going to break and bend valves etc. but, contrary to your scenario, not much warning on that. taking it to an independent shop and pull the valve cover and inspect and replace parts will probably be less than replacing the engine but at 230K it's probably a good time to look at 25 part outs on CL. Who knows how long the engine would last if #4 were remedied but even with that what would be the next thing to go wrong. If you continue to drive it as is keep us up to date on any changes. It's always encouraging to hear how hard it is to kill a subaru. :-\

you sound like the guy I heard on Car Talk today. maybe you could seafoam the valvetrain to see if it loosens up a lifter or spring? can hurt and might help.

the bulbs are flashing at twice the rate also? strange.

new wires (OE) and NGK plugs all around to start. unless you just did that and still get the code then I don't know at the moment.

I await your findings. I also have found it confusing looking for the kit on ebay as nothing says "98". I think we have the new tensioner (depending on build date?). btw, how many miles do you have? are you planning on replacing pulleys? Jon

nice, we like fozzies over at dirtyimpreza.com too since you don't have snow you have to get what you can. I swear it looks like an elephant could step out into sight any second. foresters ('99) rule

yeah, I just don't trust the notion of how much you put in the tank equating to how much you actually burned-unless you fill up at the same pump etc.. because you are assuming it was full when you started the trip. soobies are alittle strange in the gas tank filling up. since we are bound to see $4 gas again, I recommend a scangauge II for the Fozzie's stocking this Christmas. you can see mileage real time and improve your hypermiling skills. At $1.50/gal where I am-ah, who cares right now. other than that, fluids all around like to be changed once a while-rear diff every couple years or so? cars101 says 27 hwy for Auto, so it may be a combo of measurement discrepancies and driving habits (75mph-really, you expected 27 at 3200 rpm?)

okay, I'll bite. 2 things: the forester is not very aerodynamic (subaru-wize) and the other is 75 mph (at what rpm are you doing 75?). I assume the tire pressure is spot on-cause all sooby owners are ocd about tire pressure (or should be). I bet at 60-65 you would be getting your 25. How are you measuring mileage?

I might add the reason that our prior gen 4eats are so "rubust" is because they aren't the smoothest shifting trannies around. smoothness can equate to wear and tear. unplugging the Solenoid A resistor did firm up shift points. however, I eventually got the "excessive shift shock" code. so, it does need alittle slippage to be healthy I guess. It's the longer aluminum covered thingy on the passenger side strut tower with one connector to it. someone needs to start a poll: how long has it been since you last cleared a CEL code and what was it, mmm:rolleyes:

I've had the Fumoto for about 5 oil changes so far (2 years). It comes with the clip. I did have to buy a couple different washers to make everthing line up properly and be tight. even with the skidplate, I can change the oil in about 15 minutes (including drain time and filter change). the opening is just (and I mean just) above the hole in the skid plate that I cover with duct tape. Now, I wouldn't rallyx with the valve without a spare sump and oil supply on board. oh, OE subaru filters because they are designed for their position in subarus and because I have a subaru. I have used M1 filters with I used all Mobile 1 oil though. edit: I believe Purlolator makes Subaru oil filters.

In D (drive) the 4eat will go from 90/10 (normal/cruising) to 50/50 (full throttle/acceleration) etc.. Of course, if you interupt power to the Duty C solenoid you will have 50/50 all the time-mmm, torque bind

did you figured it out? did you try to plug the MAF back in with the engine cold? It would be nice to have a code with the sensor plugged in. the blinking AT light could be separate-check fluid? check AT wire harness connector under intake plenum? Actually, when you say it stalled when you gave it gas makes it sound like it's not getting air. chek the intake for blockage? check throttle body for anything loose/foreign/missing.

Mike, is this worth it? depends I'm sure. http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/933374431.html and, is Justin your brother?

open loop shouldn't be that bad, imo. I've read about the fuel lines getting loose in cold weather and allowing some fuel leakage but maybe that was on older carbed engines.