The Scooby

i rather do this old school meet then deal with the wrx dorks at WCSS. ill be there in my lifted wagon now that it runs!!

thats what i have, 215/75/15, 28's basically and i rub a little.

ya i had changed out the crank sensor, i just OHM'ed out the wires from the connector where it plugs into the ECU to the connector that plugs into the crank sensor and all 2 wires are good full length. i hope dave and i can figure it out, i can't wait to hear it STAY running and be able to drive it.

any EJ AWD tranny will work.

ya cool i talked with scott and he lined me up with what to do to help with the CV's rubbing on the frame. so tomorrow i hope to remember my welder so i can extend my steering coupler as well as get the 1.5inch blocks in the front sub-frame & tranny mount.

the select monitor was a reader basically that plugged into that connector and acted like the newer OBD2 code reader. you could see parameters and such to help diagnose problems. id just leave it in.

yesterday i went through and traced all the power and ground wires i can find in the harness and everything seems fine. so i pulled out the harness and even got anotehr known good ECU and plugged that in so i have a fresh starting point again. getting 3 codes: 11 - Crank angle sensor/circuit 12 - start signal/circuit 35 - canister purge so ill just leave it alone today until Dave can get there and take a peek and hopfully figure it out. but i did finish wiring up my Hella's finally, as well as got a new decal for the brush gaurd.

ive done the swap on a few cars now, takes UNDER 4 hours if you have a car hoist. that includes swapping the tranny, clutch, and flywheel. droping out the old rear suspension cradle as a whole, and putting the new one in. then toss in the drive shaft and your done.

1200 for mine... just $200 for the windshield and it passed inspection. im still into it for under $3K with the wheels/tires, sway bars, seats, springs, shocks, exhaust, STi rear diffuser, HID's, hood, bumper, headlights, grill, stereo, and lots of other miss. things like bushings throughout all the suspension.

i was wondering, i got a bunch of 98 legacy outback 1.5inch subframe spacers that im going to use to help with my CV angles and such. my question is am i going to have any issues with my shift linkage or anything with adding the spacers. Thanks, Shean

yep, have you checked to make sure you are getting a 12V signal and ground at your fuel pump relay?

lol, check out my build on my EJ swap into my 86 wagon, im having the same problem. i found that the ECU is not giving 12V to the fuel pump relay so i have to take the harness back out of the car and OHM out every wire now.

looks great, but i don't think they even looked that good when they where new

nice come up, i love my impreza.

well when i tapped the 2 wires together the pump stays on constantly. the large yellow has a constant 12V and even with the pump on constant the engine will not stay running. so in short with the pump on constant 12V the engine sputters and stalls like it has been doing. so there is still something else wrong. matt again if you can please call me i would appreciate it, if i don't hear from you ill give you a call tomorrow.

ya russ i am very lucky to have such a awesome boss, who also let me lay a over 50foot burnout in his 68 pontiac firebird 400. thanks matt thats what i thought i would do, ill have to try that tomorrow. today im finishing painting my new room at my new house im renting, cleaning the yard up (looks like a jungle) cleaning out the 2 car garage, and laying new carpet. later this week/next weekend i have to put in the new washer/dryer, new stovetop, prep and treat the garage floor with a Floorcoat. then move in and hope to get a 2post car hoist installed in the comming months in the garage as well.

only the outback/2.5GT came with a DOHC 2.5 engine, not the LSi in any year. unless they where done before with the updated ones, then they might last longer.

any little thing helps right now, ill have to think about that one. its my weekend right now, sunday/monday, and the car is at my work, so on tuesday im having SuberDave come by to take a peek to see if he can find something quick. but before that ill be working on it when we are slow at work.

ya it will run, if i swap the start signal for the EJ ECU so it gets 12V switched it will start and run but have a searching idle. for soem reason the EJ ECU is not telling the SPFI pump to stay on.

talk about bring back from the dead... auto 2.5's have a EGR even in japan. most of the JDM engines have a different intake manifold and the coil pack is not mounted to the top of the intake plenum. but then again, some are.

smart is not smart when it comes to price, $400 for a front brake job on a outback is retarded. go to superior if your in the south seattle area, Roopair if your in tacoma, or scan west. they are all great people and do AWESOME WORK.

wrong, its a 2.2 auto with 4.11's. great drive train in the LSi 96 wagon, but ive always loved the 2.5GT's especally in a wagon and red. also since i do my own work i don't mind doing head gaskets every 100K

ya tell me about it, so what, you think just tap the small yellow wire to the large yellow before the relay? i think it ran before because the factory EA wiring was telling the pump to stay on and not the EJ wiring. if you have a diagram i can see on how i can change the routing of the smaller yellow that would be great. if this doesn't work im gonna have to pull the harness and ohm out every wire, or im going to have to build one myself since something is not right in the wiring.

and its not, only the large yellow wire gets 12V, not the small one at any time whether its key on engine off, or cranking.