The Scooby

i had matt do mine since im kinda in a hurry, if you like i can build a harness for you, but it might take a month or so.

if it was shorting it wouldn't only do it when the car is warm and only at idle.

awesome, i can't wait to get it so i can drive my car again.

i hope so, i might have a LSD swapped into her by then, mainly im just waiting for the wiring, thats the big thing, that and to drive it for a few hours first to make sure everything will be ok. but i dunno its looking like i won't recieve the wiring until next week.

my first subaru was a twin to yours, i did the same things you got done so far, but it ended up with 4w disk brakes, RX ground FX, exhaust, loud stereo, 8 spoke gold enkei's, XT6 sway bars and impreza seats. good luck with your project.

very nice, thats show car quality, i would be afraid to drive it like that.

thats like a show car, looks AWESOME, i wish i had the time and money to do that with my 86 wagon

i was doing that a few weeks back with my wife, i was towing her all around town behind my lifted wagon when really no one else was able to be out driving but some 4wd trucks/SUV's and subaru's. it was funny, someone would be stuck, i would roll up and stop, the wife would slide up to the car, hook it up and i would yank them out then drive off again towing my wife behind on the sled.

ya i talked with my boss and a good friend who has been a subaru tech for over 30 years and im just gonna buy a new oil pump and put it in as well as a timing belt kit and such. if it doesn't fix the problem, then ill beat the hell out of it until it blows, then just swap in a EJ205 from my boss's 03 WRX

wow, for a minute i thought you where talking about nasioc.com almost everyone on there thinks their crap doesn't stink because their car's are turbo.

i know the hose looks a little kinked, but its just the picture, its not bad at all. also the fan and controller, i know that the wiring you are building will have all that, but this is alot easier to mount and wire then wiring a stock fan in, or even the fan i have to the stock wiring. i got the fan and controller brand new for free so if it doesn't work out then i can always switch to something else.

well atleast i got a few more things done. was able to find a belt to drive the ALT since i don't have power steering i had to get a stock belt, and adjust the alt all the way down, then cut down the belt until the ends touched with the alt all the way loose. got to schucks, and found a belt that will work, so if anyone else out there will do this swap im going to do a full write up with all the pictures and part numbers for what ive used thus far for my swap. for now the belt number is 4040275 goodyear gatorback. also got my bash/skidd plate bolted up in the front, still need to ether trim it down and keep bending it so i can bolt it up in the stock location, or make some kind of rear support bracket so it will still protect the exhaust, diff, and oil pan.

no leaks, 222122 on the engine now, never had any problems until i switched to the mobil.

never had any noise, when i loss the rods on my old 305ci on my camaro 6 years ago it had a knock, but good oil pressure. this engine still makes no noise so i dont think its the bearings yet, but who knows. this will be the 5th engine swap on this car since august, most of which where withing 3 weeks. if this blows chunks then ill just rebuild from scratch another 2.5 DOHC and drop it back into my car.

so, 96 impreza outback sport, 2.2. runs fine, but at idle the oil light comes on, never did this until i switched from 10w30 napa oil to mobil 1 clean 5K. so i drained the oil and switched back to the napa 10/30. still does it, so i then put in a oil thickening agent, same thing. only does this after the car is fully warmed up. no noise from the engine at all but its just annoying having to hold up the RPM's at every stop light and such to keep the light off. any idea's?

lookin good

there is the outback basic that has the cloth seats (what i have) then there is the limited that has leather.

i believe his are the square fogs for the impreza and legacy GT, the outback are the 6inch round ones. you can put some Hella 500's in the stock place.

95-99 outback seats, VERY comfy, and height adjustable.

again, with no dyno sheet i will not believe you, sorry, thats just me. with a full exhaust, intake, and upgraded TMIC the stock WRX's only make about 12 more WHP, so on a engine that is smaller, smaller turbo, and is less efficient i dont see 150CHP, sorry. prove me wrong.

listen, again im not trying to start a fight, just happens that when i built my 86 turbo 3dr and put down the numbers i did everyone called BS, i posted a dyno graph and everyone shut up. i would just like to see the numbers and what kind of usable power there is with, im not calling you a liar, but there are alot out there and i would love to see what numbers are at the wheels. again im not trying to say you are lying, or me be a jerk, im just interested in numbers not estimations.

ive always just had good luck using only OEM subaru parts, that and a engine flush before i do the nose job. also another thing i noticed is that i when my engine was getting low on oil they would start to tick, and progressivly get louder as the engine would burn more, top it off and be good to go. oh did i say burn the oil, i mean leak it.

major mods is to remove your bad tranny, and replace with the good 95. they are the same until 98 when they went to the hydro clutch and then the newer bellhousings.

im not trying to state anything, im just saying i don't want to hear conseritave numbers, i want to see it put down. im talking WHP, not CHP. my 98 DOHC 2.5 i swapped into my 96 impreza factory made 164 BHP, and 170TQ, it put down 134AWHP and 141 AWTQ. and i know it was not fast, but then again i know it was no slouch. i built a EA82T a few years back. i did as i posted, ceramic coated pistons and CC's, studded block, home made header/up pipe, VF11 turbo, modded stock injectors to 440 CC's, ausie ATWIC and front exchanger and tank, oil cooler, as well as the full exhaust, it put down 120AWHP, so with ruffly 20% drivetrain loss which is about right compared to my impreza, thats $148CHP. i know i can go further with it with custom pistons, rods, metal head gaskets, extrude honed intake manifold and heads, stainless valves, custom cams, uprated springs, VF39 turbo or T3/T4 and a FMIC and make 200 with tuning. but do you honestly think it will be reliable, and be cheap?

no offence to anyone, but please don't claim that by your calculations you are at that HP, that helps no one, for all you know you are only at 120HP. until i see dyno numbers i call BS on people anymore. with the mods i stated you should be around 130HP, not 160.