The Scooby

1200 is a great price for that car, here in washington that would be a $4K car easy. but it, replace the timing belt and idles/tensioners, water pump, and do the oil change and enjoy the car. if it was maintained 300K+ is no problem.

^that thing is awesome, ive been wanting to build something like that for a while now, might have to now that ive done the EJ swap i might need another gen3 to cannibalize.

you can boost the first gen DOHC 25, but they are not built for it and i would not recomend it. find a EJ22T engine, swap it in, those are 160hp stock. i had a 92 turbo legacy, auto, VF39 (sti turbo) slant mount TMIC with alk sprayer, stock manifold and up-pipe, 3inch HKS down pipe, and a 3inch crush bent exhaust to a magna flow muffler, no cats or resonators. with the rallitek PP6 it put dow 214AWHP and 216AWTQ. that was auto, and a very nice car to drive, full boost at 2800rpms and would pull hard to redline.

+5, the 97 is first year for interference, but OEM subaru parts other wise you will be replacing them again early. also 190K is nothing for a 2.2 engine, as long as it was maintained, meaning oil changes on time and timing belt on time it will go ALOT longer. my EJ22 in my 96 impreza outback sport has 222057 right now and it runs STRONG. ive seen MANY MANY cars some into my work with the orignal drivetrain still with over 500K on it in the first gen legacy's.

ether custom made, or 5 lug swap. or redrill your hubs to 6X140 so you can run toyota wheels, or redrill to 4X100 and run honda wheels.

no problem, anytime. i post under my handle, The Scooby, but both zap, my boss tom, and i post under aaron's auto wrecking handle. that is the user for our work for us posting parts for sale and the like, i hope to get ALOT of pictures of the cars we have and what parts are on them and post them in a major for sale thread in the comming weeks. also feel free to PM ether me, zap, or our user name Aaron's Auto Wrecking anytime if you need any parts and one of us will get back to you asap.

i do everything out side in the elements, i work at a subaru wrecking yard, and pull dashes almost 1 per week, so it takes me no time at all. you get used to it, memorize the locations for the connectors and what HAS to be removed, and what doesn't. but ya i know they overlap, but if you unbolt it and push it to the right on the A/C box you can slip out the middle box without any problems, that way it gives you alot more room to work on the heater box. just how i do it, but whatever works.

on the struts, if you pull up the dust boot and see that its wet then the struts are blown, but i DOUBT that will cause this issue. if you dont feel the vibration in the steering wheel then i doubt its int he front end. if you feel it in the dash and in your arse then its something to do with the back of the car, rear rotors and such. it could be ball joints and or tie rods. i recommend you take it to a reputable alignment shop and have them check it over, notice i didn't say les shawb, someone you know and trust to tell you the truth and not try to just sell you parts and service.

someone that knows their stuff, never use stop leak unless you want to replace everything in your cooling system when it dislodges it self and clogs a hose. i can pull a dash in 10 minutes, then about another hour to swap cores and toss the dash back in. should be able to do it in a afternoon. good luck how come you discharged your a/c, no need, just pull the dash, pull the middle box out, then pull out the heater box, no need to pull the a/c box.

subaru always used a 12X1.25 for their shift knobs except on the 6spd's. so everything form EA71 to the new WRX/Legacy works, just unscrew them and screw on the new one.

give it a good rinse all over with hot soapy water, then rinse it down really good. add about a inch around where you think the rust is, sand down to bare metal, then use some metal glase not bondo, sand that until its smooth with the body lines. then prime and paint. other wise bondo and primer both hold in moisture so that is making it worse on you.

still need to figure out a way to secure the lower part of the rad, mount the new flexalite cooling fan and fan controller and wire that up, put in the fuel pump, hook of the fuel lines, then fill it with coolant and install the wiring. looks like it will be about 2 weeks from now until i receive my harness back, so its just the little stuff i want to do right now like the bumper, wire in the lights, etc etc.

getting the finishing touches dont tonight, plugs/wire got put on, picked up some oil and coolant tonight as well as some hose clamps. figured out what lines are what for the fuel system. but mainly finished my front bumper and mounted the new driving lights.

bye new rad???

ive got brake lines here, come pull one and ill hook ya up.

sorry thinking of a loyale-legacy/impreza about the relay. skip knows his stuff so listen up.

read my thread and look at the pictures, im pretty much showing what is needed and what there is to do on a carbed 86 GL wagon, harder in some aspects and more work then your SPFI wagon. you need to read the PDF file chux made under the retrofitting page. you will need to ether fit a legacy rad or find a way to use a dual core turbo EA82 rad and fit hoses on it, adapter plate and redrilled flywheel which you can get from SJRlift.com, also you will need to send out your wiring to someone like chux to have it skinned down for the swap, also quite a few other things. if i had the finished harness back from chux before i started then i would have been in under 1 day.

turn on the ignition, make sure the tranny is in neutral, then get a wire and run it from where the positive battery cable hooks to the starter and then to the little blade connector where the little wire connects on the starter. that is the starter signal that comes from the ignition switch to tell it to work. if you jump a wire between the ignition switch wire on the starter to the positive battery terminal it should crank over and start, if not its the starter. if it does start or crank right up then most likly its the igniton switch and or relay.

im not saying that they are dime a dozen, i have 2 right now and im keeping them, also i was just saying a 10 minute job, maybe an hour but whatever. anyways im just saying its alot easier/cheaper to convert the RX or VLSD to work then try to get a SUX oh i mean SVX rear assembly and try to make something work. more work then needed.

ok cool thanks.

jbbvw, nice lookin wagon you got there

so you want to spend more money and time trying to make a VLSD work on your car when you can but one from a turbo legacy or a RX, swap ring gears in 10 minutes and install it into your car? don't know why you want to waste that much time/money but whatever.

you want to see a tall shifter check out mine i made, its a kartboy short shifter with a 3inch aluminum extension i made, its perfect throw length now and great position near the wheel.

lol ya i know but i can still pull it off right now, everything is really just there to mock up an exhaust, the front y-pipe will be replaced with a un-equal length one later on so i have the subaru rumble. and hey chux do you mind snapping a few pictures of what fuel lines you hooked where, i think i know what one is the feed but im not too sure about the others. thanks in advance

i think the rear knuckles are different, if you're talking about just pressing out the hubs and swapping them the problem is finding some bearings that will work with the hub ID and the knuckle OD and width. as well as the length of the SVX axels, they are longer then a standard legacy/impreza so you will have to figure that out as well.