dhise

por-15 is holding up here for me. It is a little pricey but it has kept the wagon intact over the last few winters. Every spring I have to fix up a few areas, but at least it is a manageable decay rate now. Time will tell if the motor or the body gives up first.

Redline 75-90NS has worked well for me. Way better than whatever old fluid was in there. Shifts smooth and easy at all temps now, but still get a little of that bump you described letting the clutch out in sub zero cold starts.

Put some fresh gear oil in there and keep driving? As long as there is no leaks or vibrations it may just be noisier than most trannies. My loyale's tranny makes enough noise for me to hear it. I just ignore it now and it hasn't changed in the 60k miles I've put on it.

could be tire noise or wheel bearings. If it's the bearings it'll eventually get louder than your radio.

I've replaced the bearings on my Loyale. Did the drivers side shortly after I bought the car and they must have been bad for a while because I had to wail on them like a blacksmith to get them out! A year and a half later I had the passenger side bearings go and I was thinking it was going to be a pain in the rear again, but this time they just tapped right out. Easy job when they do that! I also cheat and use a tool that pulls the axle through the bearings, and the last bearing job I did I picked up a cheap harbor freight hub tamer that made pressing the bearings in very easy.

pb blaster worked for my old loyale as well. When you free it up, get some grease on there to keep it corrosion free!

Just north of Detroit.

There should be an old thread to search for giving all the little details of how easy our cars are to drive off with without the keys.......

Did the ecu recognizing the manual trans vs the auto affect the way it ran at all? I have a ej22 swap in an old GL that still thinks it is looking for an auto trans, but other than the cel it seems to run great. Just wondering if you noticed any difference other than the cel being off.

I'd be interested in an ea82 w/ej22 motor swap, unlifted, as well.

Last January my loyale would barely crank over when it was near 0F and the battery lasted all summer afterwards until it finally died. You probably have a little time to replace it before it craps out. If you let the car sit for more than a week w/o charging I bet it'll die for sure then.

snowing and cold, cold, cold here too. The wagon starts and runs just fine, but the suspension creaks and groans a bit in the sub-zero stuff. Sometimes the lifters make a racket too in the morning. 4x4 still works, had a chance to use it tonight with some fresh snow on the ground.

another hard day on the job!

Like John said the parking brake adjuster is under the handle there, cables pointing towards the front. I have the '90 Loyale FSM if you need info on the brakes and hill holder. I've put rear discs on my loyale and the '86 GL I bought from Chux came with them, a nice upgrade for stopping. Yours is 2WD right? If so, I think you would need discs from a 2WD donor to swap them over which is probably difficult to find.

http://video.kenblockracing.com/embed/small/204/9183 I want to see him drive my loyale like that! or maybe not....

I recently tried a 0w-30 oil and it made the lifters tick a little more than usual so I went back to the good 'ol 10w40 for a nice quiet motor.

Does anyone know if the MAP sensor on this motor does anything but check the egr?

Wanted to update this thread after tracking a few tanks:

Maybe the lines on the fuel separator are a bit gummed up from sitting so long. I'm pretty sure my loyale had sat for a long while before I got it and had some issues with pressure building up in the tank for a while and they eventually went away on its own. Once you burn some gas out of the tank maybe you could blow out the little lines behind the filler pipe on the tank. One goes to the top of the separator and the other is at the bottom of the separator draining back into the tank. This is assuming the evap system is the same as the loyale and assuming those lines aren't too crusty to get loose w/o breaking something, lol. Or we can do what I did and just let the gas eventually dissolve whatever crud is causing the pressure.

That's how I checked it. Then you're not wasting money on a fuel pump if you don't need it.

Check the similar threads at the bottom of the page here. They will help you find the info you need. I replaced one myself earlier this year. It should be above the ecu along with the ignition relay.

POR-15 has been working well for me. I haven't done anything too fancy, just a HF angle grinder, POR-15, fill, sand, prime and paint. I'm sure if I hadn't done anything I wouldn't have any rear quarters or rocker panels left by now :-\.

I had a fuel pump relay go out on mine in February of all months... Problem was that someone had replaced it with a generic relay and I couldn't find the color wires I was looking for right away. Anyhow, got a new relay, straightened out the wiring mess from the previous repair and it's good to go. For the winter months I bypassed the relay entirely and the pump ran whenever the key was turned on. Not entirely safe, but it was way too cold to be messing around at the time... I am pretty sure that all the loyales with the automatic seat belts have a seperate control unit that switches the ground for the relay instead of the ecu controlling it. -Doug

pretty much what I get now that I drive slow as well. Best tank was 36 mpg. -Doug

I've been really happy with one of those kenwood under-the-seat style subwoofers. I was just looking to fill out the sound and not rattle the license plate off. Picked up a used one on ebay for cheap and the stereo sounds 100% better than it did with just the door speakers.