tcspeer

I had Midas do mine with the lifetime warranty, and have already got one set free since then. It cost right at 500.00 for parts and labor the first time.

After rereading your first post I see you had already tried what I thought would work. Have you tried looking from under the car up? Maybe someone here has run into this before, The only thing I have messed up back there is the fuel door itself by walking into it and bending it while it was open.

Forget the paper clip I just looked at mine, looks like you will need to open door all the way and then take the cap and inner cover off, maybe the little holder just turned and backed out of the hole. It looks like you should be able to reach it with the cover off.

Do you have room to unfold a paper clip and get in behind it?

I was taking about the one in Oregon, but I would not base my opinion on a company because of what one person that works for them says. And maybe he was trying to say it would be better to get a new flywheel then to cut one down. I agree with this on brake rotors but I dont know about the flywheel being I have an Automatic. I was just trying to tell you where you could save money.

Yes, buy your Subaru parts from some of the places mentioned here on the board one is 1st Subaru parts or the one I like which is Lithia Subaru # 1-866-717-2512, these places will save you lots of money. You can check your old wires by spraying a light mist of water on them after dark to look for fire jumping ( Do this only when the engine is cold ) you can also check the wires with a multi meter. \\

I agree with Strat, sounds like the coil pact. You can check it with a Multi Meter and the instrustions out of the Haynes manual, for Subaru. The coil pact dont cost a lot and is very easy to change.

If the car wont rev. up there is a chance the inside of the muffler has collapsed. Check the tail pipe and make sure someone has not stuck something in it.

Dont give up on the back, when I had the disc done in my neck it took a while to heal. I am sure you know this but just in case you dont you can have the valve stem seals fixed for very little money. I think you just remove the valve cover and fill the cyclinder with air. I am not sure on the details but I am sure someone here is. I had some done this way on a 305 chev. engine years back.

This is very good OB99W, I asked the local mechanic about the details of how the noid light works and you have nailed it.

I think he said he replaced the coil pact, is that the same as the spark pack? When my # 3 misfire showed up, I took the cheap in line spark tester and was able to see the fire was getting there so no further test was need on the elc. side of the misfire. I dont know if he has done this, but it also would be a good ideal. I agree with you I think the gas suggestion is a bit crazy.

I have a 97 wagon, but when I unlock the drivers door I then unlock the rest with the button on the inside, if their is someway to unlock all four with the key, then I have not known it for the ten years I have had mine.

Mine is a 97 and it had two wires to unplug and then you screw the outer shell off and the inner part will pull out of the front. But you will most likely have to take the bottom center panel off first. The details are in the Haynes manual. Yours may not be the same as mine but on the 97 remove the cup holder then the two screws on the ends, and then they are two right above the ashtray. Be careful putting it back together because the plastic will break easy.

No it is not normal, do you know if it is coming from one wheel or both?

That was indeed a great call Legacy 777

I put the noid light to the injector plug and found it would not light, so I checked the other three and they would. So someone here on the board told me to check and see if current was coming to the connector so I checked that and found 12 volts. ( I think it was 12 volts ) The noid light dont light from the current from the battery it flashes with the signal from the E.C.U. if I remember right. So I had current going to the plug but it was not getting the information from the E.C.U. to do what it was suppose to. That is why it became the suspect. But dont forget I came here asking for help with this and had many lead me to the final answer so I am sure someone here can better answer your question than me. (

Call a good wrecking yard, they have that information at hand, if you need the name and number of a good yard try sales@findusedparts.com or tollfree at 1-888-337-7757 they have lots of Subaru parts with fast shipping.

I had a cyclinder # 3 misfire that turned out to be the E.C.U. unit. If you will buy a set of noid lights you can check your injectors connectors with them, and they are very cheap at most auto stores. If the light dont work on # 4 (and it did not light on my #3) check and see if you have current to the wire that goes to that injector, if you have current then you will be where I was and the E.C.U. fixed my problem.

Did your mechanic clean the new rotors with brake cleaner? If not your pads may be contaminated, this will usually make a groaning noise when stopping. The new rotors have an oil on them to keep then from rusting. Also you need to find out if it is just one or both making the noise, if it is just one it may be out of round even if it is new. I have had to take new ones back that were bad.

Any failure with the A.B.S. is not suppose to do anything to change the normal breaking operation, it is always overrode and then works just like a car that has no A.B.S. or that is what is claimed by the makers of the systems.

Do you have A.B.S. sensors on the rear brakes?

I would not have a lot of faith in this suggestion, but if you have not done it , I think I would undo the battery for around 30 min. to reset the computer, it may help and is very little work.

The right hand drive Subaru's were sold to rural mail carriers from the early 90's untill around 2000. I have a 1997 right hand drive that now has 310,000 miles. You will see a lot of them around post office's in the rural towns. As for as the parts nearly everything will exchange with the left hand drive, except the steering links on the front and the heater core. I am sure they are some other things also, but that is all I have found so far.

Yes look for the little line mark on the tab of the crank spocket. they should be a little line mark on the cover behind the cam spocket also.

I would say around 300.00 for each side. If you take the spindle and hub off you can take it to a small shop and they will press them in for around 20.00 each.