Gloyale

I should update and advise that anyone replacing this front seal also replace BOTH bearings on the input shaft. The large rear bearing started going in this excact trans and less than a year later, and I had to go back in. That was over 2 years ago now. This trans is now in my EJ'd 86 wagon now, and is running strong with all new bearings the last time, and all seals.

Yes, trans needs to be pulled out and opened up. here's the write-up I did several years ago. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87305-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/ Doesn't cover the Rear Input bearing replacement.....but that's pretty easy......it just presses on....make sure to put the clip towards the rear of the shaft.

MAF? Could just be a cracked or disconnected PCV or IAC hose. Could also be a weak fuel pump. reset computer by pluggin toghether the green connectors and the white connectors under hte hood near wiper motor. Start engine and run it over 2K rpms for 40 secs. CEL will come on steady if clear......Will keep blinking codes if not. Disconnect after clearing.

You've got an ape you keep around just for that? Raped Apes have been known to do some pretty crazy stuff!

Autozone is $28 My supplier (IMC) they are only about $18. Both are "Walker" brand kits. Annoyingly, they do not include a new power valve. They do have everything else needed.

You should be able to hook the Neutral switch up to the stock trans wiring in the car. It may even plug right in? At any rate, leaving it ungrounded would tell the car it's in gear all the time....which could mess with idling. Or if you ground it, it would tell the ECU the car is in neutral all the time.....might drive fine, but eventually the ECU will see no change on that wire and throw code.

You don't need all this stuff. It is different, and if you use the lift blocks, then you need the A-arm bushings, transcrossmember spacers, steering link, etc.... But in reality, the best way to strut lift a regular Legacy is to use the Outback struts, and the trailing arm bracket from the Outback. That's it. No more required. Outback rear swaybar could be added too for handling, but not needed for lift and actually if you want more off-road ability ditch the swaybars entirely. But that isn't really what he was asking about. He asked about handling....and that could be addressed without any lifting, in fact keeping it lower will yeild better handling. Just add the outback swaybars

Provide ground to the Black/yellow, Black/red, and Black wires at each of the OE engine connectors. Also, does your boost switch have a ground to connect to when it closes?

If the dual range came from a SPFI car it will have a nuetral switch. It would be fairly low on the tailsection, drivers side, about 2 inches back from the seam where the tailsection joins the front cases. There should not be a tranny ECU??? (TCU, unless this was a 4eat car originally) What exact model is the car? What was the OE engine/trans? I can look up all the exact wires to ground at the engine connector. I think you need to do that for the VSS, as it's reed switch opens and closes continuity to ground to make it's signal. Tach, and Nuetral switch may need those grounds too.....not sure with the digi.

I told you. It's coming from the front seal of the input shaft. The ring gear slings gear oil DIRECTLY at the back of the seal at high speeds. The transmission needs new input shaft seal, and you should replace the input shaft bearings while you're in there.

It will fit in a $15 FLAT RATE BOX. Why would shipping for a 3 lb item be $60???

90% of the carbs I rebuild have a little play in the throttle shaft. It's not really an issue unless it's ALOT of play. Unfortunately, Ive not been able to find a repair option for the throttle shafts.....so if they are too bad it's a junker. The upside is these carbs are fairly easy to find.....or used to be, getting harder as everyone throws them away and gets webers........then they have issues with the weber too. I personally love the hitachis, and will take any and all that anyone wants to get rid of.

Front input shaft seal on the trans. Happens more at high speed, because the ring gear slings oil right at the back of the seal, the faster you go, the more oil hits it. In my experience, speeds over 75-80 will make it happen for sure. I would replace the input shaft front and rear bearings, and all the seals in the trans while it's open. About $200 worth of parts+ labor

First, the common ground are side to side, not front to back. I.E. Left Frnt, and Left rear share ground. Right front, and Right Rear share the other ground. Second, wiring a deck that isn't made to have shared grounds up in such a manner will ruin the deck. What I would do is run new speaker wires to the front kickpanels, and hook up to the front speakers there. Run the rear wires from the deck to the OE rear speaker wires in the dash. The original front speaker + wires will be unused. Green wire in it's own seperate plug is the BATT 12v Blue/yellow wire is the Switched 12v Blue/Red is Left - Blue/black is Right - Yellow/white is Right rear + White/blue is Left rear + Yellow is Front L + , but you won't be using it. White is Front R +, won't be using it. Run new speaker wires to the pink 2 pole connector under kickpanels.

Could be input seal resulting from improper seating of torque converter. Hopefully the Torque converter was seated all the way? Are you sure you lined it up or did you force it?

Speed sensor signal comes out of the dash. I woudl try grounding the black/red, black/yellow...etc. wires at the OE engine connector. Whichever ones were the original grounds I think 3 or 4 of them. The VSS needs the ground to pulse. You can also get the Nuetral switch wire at the OE computer connector, as well as tapping in your EJ Tach wire.

It's telling you to open it up and blow it out. Spend $30 bucks on a rebuild kit. Take the top of the carb off, pull the drain plugs, remove the emulison tubes. keep track of what comes out of which hole. Remove the accelerator pump. Keep track of the accelerator weight pin. Keep the spring but don't worry aout the ball. You will replace it with the one out of the rebuild kit. Blow it all out. Unscrew the secondary diagphram to access the 2 tiny screws holding the airhors. Remove them, then remove the airhorns. Replace the orings with the new ones from the kit. Install new accel pump, and boot. Install the new needle. don't worry about changing the seat they ussualy don't want to come out anyhow, just swap needles. Reassmble with new top gasket and bowl plug seals.

No that would be too much labor for them, and they can't "garauntee" without replacing the block. That's what dealers do....throw your money at the problem. But if they will not replace the engine, and you want to explore options that would be the way to go. The heads are more likely to need replaced than the block. Find an independent shop that can do the piston replacement.

Bring it and see what it'll do. Garauntee you'll have fun and it's always cool to have a range of different Subies to see whats possible with what.

But it's unused in most carbed brats. Only there for MPFI, and Cali-Carbed brats.........OR for optional cruise control. Not needed for a standard carbed car. Altough I would advise not removing the stock wiring, but just piggy backing around it. Hacking out the stock wiring could cause all kinds of fuel pump, headlight, blower motor, etc........problems and will DECIMATE any resale or collector value the brat has. Keep in mind, Brats are on;y likely to become MORE valuable......but only fairly clean ones that haven't been molested like a drunken choir boy at Jerry Sandusky's house.

specs for first gen legacy temps. Newer models should be the same 135F = 135.4 ohms resistance 248F = 19 ohms resistance Additionally, the fans should come on when the ECU sees a temp of 205....so if the fans come on and go off......then the ECU is seeing temps around 200-205......which should be right about at the halfway or just above halfway mark on the temp gauge. I think you should test the gauge using a 100 ohm resistor. If that pushes the gauge over halfway, then the problem may be with the gauge, or the voltage regulator inside the gauge.

A reading of 205 temp and the dash gauge is at the red? That does sound wrong to me. You can test the gauge calibration by using a resisitor in place of the sensor. Need to identify which wire of the 3 is for the gauge, and connect it through a resitor to ground. Gotta get a spec for what ohms=temps....but those are ussually in the FSM as a chart for testing just this excact problem. Redline should be more like 230-240 Try refilling it through the upper radiator hose, with the car parked on a slant so the nose is above the heater core. Take the upper hose off the radiator, fill the block with coolant. then hook up the hose and fill the radiator the rest of the way.

1.Don't know them 2.Yes, make sure to use a good oil pump and reseal it's backing plate. Sounds like the best option. New water pump with metal gasket 3. Also would be fine. new water pump with metal gasket. 4. And yes it would fit with a bit of fabrication to crossmember, but would be expensive and massive undertaking.

HighGuysLifts.com And as far as the carb....it probably just needs a cleanout/rebuild. These are pretty easy carbs to open and cleanout. It's ussually the slow emulsions and the primary main emulsions clogged.....which causes the poor transition from light to full throttle. Just redid a carb on a Brat the other day.......now drives flawless. I charge $90 bucks for this service....the carb kit only cost about $25

Up to 2007 WRX wagon stuff will work too Sedans are wider track....so the trailing arms and swaybars wouldn't fit excactly.