Gloyale

The EA PS lines will hook up to the EJ pump. If anytrhing just get the lines that go down to the crossmemeber, and hook into EA lines. And I think your throttle cable can be made to work too, might have to bend the bracket on the EJ intake that holds it.

EJ22 is a much simpler engine to work on than an EA82. That said, an EA82 is a solid engine, revs smooth, makes decent power/mileage ratio........I would skip rebuilding an overheated one and just buy a used one from a u-pullit, and reseal that one. You may be fine rebuilding the one you've got, but if it's run with milky oil for a long time, the main and rod bearings are shot.

There was a pucker moment between these 2 shots that was unbelievable. 2nd shot is blurry cause I HAD to let off the brake and quickly roll down the hill before the roof went over the front end.

EA82 longblock, 170 lbs So I would say a good estimate of the ER27 would be about 250 lbs? EZ30? maybe 350 lbs?

No, it will be the same type of relay as the Headlight relays. Interchanges with the rectangular ones in the 90's legacies. Did you find the Glass fuse on the white wire? 20 Amp in an inline holder. The Relay will be near that fuse, and will have that big white wire going into it.

Sweet. I was just talking with my GF about trying to come up soon to check out the progress, and pick up the old engine. never heard of a filler tube issue. Sure it doesn't clear?

Yes the piston must be rotated inward (clockwise) All subarus from 70's on up through the last of the loyales are setup this way. Not sure how you did brakes on the others. You may have stripped the threads of the self adjuster post on those ones. There is a little cube shaped tool you can get that fits on a 3/8th drive ratchet. less than $10

Weld it

No drain holes in the EJ engines. That's EA you are thinking of. Tripletech, I would guess that the PS pump or the Oil Pressure switch leaking is why the #1 plug hole is full of oil.

May not be the whole issue but hot oil expands about 1~2 % Otherwise I think the oil you put in stayed in the valve cover, and didn't all flow to the pan until after the trip.

My bad, you are correct it is a ground switched system in that the bulb gets power in the dash, and the switch at the trans completes the ground. What I meant was that the wire isn't gorunded through the tranny case. One of the wires going into the switch is ground, and the switch closing completes the circuit to the other wire, lighting the indicator on the dash. My main point was that there are seperate switches for Lo and 4wd.

Blower relay is under dash, drivers side behind fuse box. wires will be Blue or Blue/yellow (Ig switched 12v from fuse 5) Black (ground) Large White (Power supply from battery through fusible link #2) Large Green/white (power out to blower when relay closed) Additionally, under the dash is a glass fuse in an idividual holder, 20A....this is on the White wire before it goes to the Relay. Hope this info helps.

Those aren't it. First one is the main A/C relay. Second pics are for A/C stuff as well. You are looking for one of the round ones like are next to that square one circled. I'll look in the book.

Keep it topped off and your are fine to drive.

All EA82 5spd 4wds have the 4wd indicator switch mounted at the top rear of the trans. Early ones (85-87) have the lo range switch mounted to the shifter, inside under the center console. Later ones have a switch on the side, right next to were the D/R lever extends forward through the case. Each switch is a path that completes when closed to light. 12v in, 12v out when switch on. Not a ground out setup. Sounds like you need to work on identifying which type you have and revise your wiring plans. I'm running an EA81 clutch cable with my EA82 5spd for 4 years now, no issues.

Sorry Zap (Eric?) I was getting real names and board names confused. You guys didn't stick around long enough for names to really stick in my head.

There is a tiny rubber plug in the backing plate. remove it and stick a skinny screwdriver straight in to release the cam that holds the self adjuster. of course also the axle nut needs to be removed too.

EA81 engine is still a 1.8 displacement engine. Shares excact bore and stroke with EA82. That's not the cause. And if he got the car from ShawnW, you can bet it was tip top, and not some "disatisfying" car that he was trying to dump. Your car get's hot because it's an EA82 turbo, which probably has cracked heads and burns coolant and even if it doesn't now it will soon. And as an FYI, loyale body cars did come with EA71 engines (1.6) in other parts of the world. Like Isreal, in the desert. So even if he did have a 1.6 in there, it would still be within the realm of driveable without overheating easily. To the OP in this thread, I hate to say but you should think about doing headgaskets. If it's filling the overflow and pushing out coolant, then it needs the headgaskets done. Good news is EA81 headgaskets are super simple. Like stupid simple.

I took on some pretty good body dents, otherwise no breakage for me.

And here's Austin giving it his all on the spot the jeeps were all hung up.

Here's Ken taking the bypass and making look easy. Showing the Jeeps how a real man does it.

Did you do this while driving, with the VSS wire hooked up to the car? The signal goes from the dash, to the ECU.....not from the ECU. Still seems like if wasn't working you'd have a CEL for it.

Sounds like the "MANU" button we got on the 90-94 models here. Lets you select which gear you want to be in. Mostly.. If you put it in "3" and then stop and start again, it will drop you to 2 to start, and then as soon as the speed is high enough to maintain 3rd it goes to 3rd and stays there and holds.

Yes, bolt in some 1~2" blocks (1-1/4 is the drop on OB ones) under the brackets will work. Forrester brackets work too......98-2008

So.....if you aren't getting a CEL, then how do you know it's not sending the signal?