Gloyale

low power and a popping intake huh? Sound like timing belt is off. Align with the notches, NOT the arrows

OK re-read some of the earlier posts in the thread. ECU does not power the Ignition coil. Ignition coil is powered by Black/white wire originating from Fuse 11. the wire splits, and supplies power also to the Ignition relay, which then turns on the ECU. But if you have no voltage to the coil. there is CERTAINLY a problem in that BW wire. Same wire goes to these locations: From fuse 11, Splits to supply FP relay, then splits to diode that supplies IG/ECU. relay Through connector R2(green 21 pins) then splits to supply Purge solenoid Splits again to supply IG.coil, and to test connector T11 and finally supplies power to ECU pin 19. SO.......disconnect the following: Ig. relay FP relay Purge solenoid (or just disconnect whole engine harness) Unhook BW wire from ignition coil. Disconnect ECU. NOW..... using long test leads, check for coninuity (200 Ohm setting) from each end to end of that BW wire. Use this method to track down which portions of this wire are not continuous. Alternately, you could just test for 12v down the line on this wire.

Fuse 12 supplies power to the light and meters. But if it isn't lighting then you are right, you have no power to the ECU. Check that Pins 10, 20, 30(AT only) 56,57,60,and 61 of the ECU all are grounded. (Black and Black/red wires) If no then check the gound bolt on the engine where the harness is attached. That is where all the ECU grounds source from.

Yeah, Why the HELL would you go backwards like that? I agree, put the SPFI back in. And by the looks of it you are even trying to use and EA81 intake and Carb, with the carb on backwards.......... No offense man, but you are seriously moving in the wrong direction.

People never consider that cars are consumables. You can NEVER expect to get more out of selling a car than you put into customizing AND STILL DRIVE. The still drive thing is the important part. Everytime you drive the car, it costs money. The milage, the wear on the engine and drivetrain, and as time passes every day you keep the car will *cost* money off it's value. If you think differently about it, and figure that you are basically renting the car from yourself, Or perhaps using the *equity* stored in it before time takes it away, then you can feel better about the small *cost* each day of driving a VERY custom, capable, and personalized rig. I bet it the cost per day on your car is pennies compared to leasing or buying a newer relatively equally capable vehichle.

Did you get the regular 14 mm head bolt that is below the compressor, bolted to front of motor? The one I said can be loosened not totally removed? It is the farthest thing to the left(looking from front) on the lower part of the bracket

Air intake leak? MAF tube not clamped on?

UOTE=Cold Chuck;850875] After reading 1987 FSM. I think I got air injection system if I am not mistaken. Those two black canisters on both sides of engine are silencers, correct? If so, what do I need to do to remove this completely? Crimp the steel pipes that leads out of the exhaust side of the heads - will that work? Any ideas? Yes, cut and crimp or weld. Or remove them where they bolt onto the head and make block off plates out of 1/8inch steel. Yes those are for the cruise control. IMO that that is the *dealer installed* cruise system, not the factory type shown in the FSMs. If you don't need/want/use you're cruise control, I would be happy to take those parts off your hands.

Does your Check engine light illuminate when you turn the key to *on*? If yes, then move next to the ECU itself. Is it blinking any codes at you? any lights at all on it? If both of these are yes, then the ECU does have power, it jsut isn't passing it through to the IG. and FP. Test the fuel pump relay by connecting the green test connectors and turnong the key to *on* Fuel pump Cycle?(otherwise, fuel pump only runs when an ignition pulse is detected.

Pink top 2.6 liter Isuzu Trooper injectors(88,89)

New head isn't that hard to install, but does require removing the entire intake, and the front covers and timing belts. Are you SURE you can't rethread or helicoil it?

I am sure you meant no offense. But I have an autistic son. I don't like him being compared to the EA82T. It's degrading to my son, lol. Kidding aside, I actually love the EA82T......to a point. That point is the heads cracking in the exhaust port. Luckily I have a very good TIG welder for a friend:grin: So every cracked set of heads I get is being set aside for a welding party. After fixed I will be bolting them to fresh NA shortblocks and running them non-turbo.(except for a few *experiments*) Tax..the best thing you could do with that engine is put NA pistons in it and run it Non-Turbo with the spider intake. That is what I did to my Turbo wagon, and driving it now is a blast. Pull off the line feels way better and it's only slightly less powerful on the freeway.

There is a 12mm long head bolt that is part of the A/C tensioner on some systems. that isn't the one I am talking about. This one has a 14mm, long head. bolted through lower front of bracket into the motor. The other *regular* 14mm head bolt to it's left can be simply loosened, not removed. The bracket has a notch there that fits right over the bolt not a hole.

You also need distributor and coil, and MAF sensor/air box assembly

Not without other modifications. What are you trying to accomplish?

There is a second bolt under there. It has a long head.

Socket part # Gearwrench 80196 Ordered through Cornwell Tools

It's cool. I figured

Simple answer is No, and No. With 28s you should be fine. 30" or larger you will need more Horses(EJ18 or 22) or a t-case.

Sedans and Wagons should be seperate. EA81 Wagons are great (I have one with a 6 inch lift) but they are super common compared to the Sedans. Why have a catagory for coupes and not Sedans? My EA81 ORIGINAL 4wd Sedan is more rare than a Brat. But I have to lump it in with the Dime-a-Dozen wagons?

Since it's a Manual, and all the lubrication of the gearbox happens from splash, you are fine to tow it all four down. As long as all 4 wheels are moving toghether, there is no strain on the AWD system(viscous coupler) The hardest part would be a proper towbar installed, but I know they are made for the motor home community.

You're SPFI car the test connectors will actaully be under the hood, in the corner of the engine bay nearest the driver.

+1 to all this. get down to an empty cup and pry out the sheet metal cover at the bottom. Using an actual E10 socket makes it easier. Available through Cornwell tools, in deep 1/4 drive. Comes with a *gearwrench* branding on it:confused:

DO NOT use red threadlocker. Red is the *permanant* locker. It should on;y be used on bolts that aren't going to be loosened again. It will greatly increase the chances that the threads will rip out the next time that the belt needs changed. IF you want to use some threadlocker, use the blue stuff. I do t-belts all the time and don't use threadlocker. Set the crank pulley to at least 150+ ft/lbs. it needs to be on tight or it will wobble it's way off the keyway and strip out.

Did you install the cover plate at the bottom of the engine? I ask because that cover plate can become bent and rub against the Flywheel.