Gloyale

I would not assume that that is the problem either. First thing, wash and wipe off the underside of the motor. Second, if you don't know when the timing belt was changed, might as well change it, and while you are in there, install new Crank and Cam seals. Put a new O-ring behind the oil pump if it is leaky from behind. At that point, I bet 90% of your leaks will be gone. And then you can decide if pulling the motor is needed.

Rear portion of engine, under the intake, on passenger side. Brown 2 wire connector, it's right next to a single wire connector for the temp gauge. You may have to remove some of the IAC and PCV tubing and move the wiring for the coil and IAC around to see it.

I use a very soft bristle wire brush wheel in a drill to clean the piston tops. Bring each piston almost to the top, you can run the wheel over hte piston top, keeping hte bristles inside the cylider walls. A soft wire wheel won't harm the cast iron cylinder liners. Just be very careful not to let it *jump* and run across the surface of the block. Also make sure not to nick the edge of the cylinder with the drill chuck. Some of the head bolts extend into cooling jacket, so some rust on them is normal. Use a dab of RTV on the very tip of them to prevent this in the future, or just don't worry about it, it's fine.

+1 All the leaks in the front of the motor drip down and blow back, so they all can *look* like a leaking oil pan, however, that is the very last thing I ussually ever have to reseal. The oil is almost always fromt eh front main, the Cams, or the rear seporator plate.

No way. I pull platinum plugs with only 30-40k on them all the time, and alot of them are burned out. That tiny little platinum electrode melts down into the ceramic. Also, even if they look good, they can be functioning poorly. Plugs are cheap, no more than 25 for all four. Buy them at a parts store instead of from the dealer, but get the NGK (I use the standard v-power for everything) Changing them regularly will yield you that or more in savings on fuel over the next 30k mile cycle. Just change them on the service schedule, there is a reason they recommend it.

Actually, it is totally a hard and fast rule for the non turbo cars in 86. 86 4wd WILL be a carbed car. Could be feedback or non-feedback depending Cali/49 State, but will be carbed. 2wds are SPFI So, I wouldn't expect to be using the fuel pump from the 86 in the 91

looks like my car before the fender trim. You are gonna want to trim some or else you're front fenders are gonna get bent and you're rear tires are gonna get chewed up on the edge.

try unpluggin your coolant temp sensor. When they go bad the engines can have a heck of a time getting the right fuel map to start. Unplug it and it should fire up rich.

I agree. Plugs are recommended to be changed every 30k. Wires every 60k. There is a reason for that. I have seen huge improvements in what were seemingly good running engines from changing plugs and wires. Battery can stay there, just remove the intake tube and the washer resevior.

Head bolts use a regular 12 point 14mm socket. That drain plug is best left alone. It is super tightly sealed in there. You will drain that passage entirely when the heads come off.

SOHC subaru engines are easy to change plugs on. WAY easier than on a V6 Dodge Caravan or Honda Accord.

You need an O2 sensor, but not nessacarily a Catalytic. Although, with Subies, that is where the O2 sensor lives.

There isn't any need to change crossmembers on a 4 inch lift either. Just add the spacers.

Yup, although you could possibly do this same swap using a Legacy pinion and a FT4wd Locking diff and tailshaft section.

actually, you are better off doing this in higher gears, where the drivetrain has more mechanical advantage over the motor. Just think which gears are easier to stalll a motor in? 1st or 4th? you are basically wanting to stall the motor(driven by your hand rather than the pistons) agianst the drivetrain.

I can stream the data from OBD II vehichles on my code scanner, but no easy way to live stream data from the pre-96 cars. Besides, O2 sensors DO produce a very fast voltage swing. Mulitmeters just show you the average, not the actual widtrh of the swing, which is important for O2 sensor diagnosis.

Blocks are interchangeable. Single exhaust port engine actually has a better low end if you ask me. It is just more powerful all toghether, seemingly, and features roller rockers:grin:. You may want to go back to the earlier heads if that 2.2 is later than 97 (you don't want an interference timing belt setup on an offroader). If it is a 95 or 96, you are golden.

The stuff in red is incorrect. EA82 Carb engines are 9:1 85,86 NA MPFI are 9:1 87+ NA MPFI are 9.5:1 EA82 SPFI are 9.5:1 Heads and combustion chambers are the same for Carb and SPFI engines. So.......From what I can tell, the only 9:1 ratio pistons out there were form the 85,86 years. Another thing about the pistons, particular to those years, is that they had a totally symetrical wristpin hole. They can be installed in any one of the 4 cylinders. IIRC, I have seen carb pistons that have 2 sets of valve notches, so that they can be flipped either way. Later, 87+ pistons have a wrist pin hole with a 1mm offset to fight piston slap. Becasue of this, the later pistons can only be installed correctly one way, and feature both "front" arrows and "up" dots for locating them in the correct cylinder. I can't say for sure, but I think this offset may correspond to the different ratios.

So a while ago I did the Dual front Ebrake mod on my GL. Here is a video of me using it to climb WAAAY further up this ramp than my buddies Lifted Lego. on the way back down, I almost had a tire disaster, no thanks to my spotter. There was a truck parked behind me on the right so I was limited in how far I could turn.

No. The EA gear won't press onto the EJ lower, because of the diameter. The upper shaft is a complete EA D/R main shaft. The lower is a complete EJ AWD pinion. The key is that while the final drive is different, the gear set ratios are the same as EA on this particular transmission. There was also a bit of grinding for clearance of the 4.11 with the D/R collar. Also we had to use all of the EJ shift collars, the EJ selector rod, and the EJ reverse lockout arm. Also you have to use the EJ speedometer driven gear.

Charge light goes off when alt is charging. IIRC the brake light is tied in and does the same. The Oil light (if equipped) goes off with oil pressure. I think you are unnessecarily worrying about the idiot lights. If you don't get them when you turn the key on, you've got no power to coil. But if you get them with key on/eng. off.......and then they go off when running, then that is all normal. I would focus on testing standard reasons for stalling/dieing. Ignition coil, pickup coil, fuel pump.

The trick is to bend it back to a really tight hook, then hammer or even better, grind it, down to be flat enough to slide in between the rubber and the spark plug, then rotate the hook outward.

I have one socket with no rubber for installing DOHC 2.5 plugs. I WILL NOT risk losing the friggin rubber in there again. I had to unbolt exhaust and engine mounts and lift engine to get access to fish it out. Now.....here we are talking about SOHC 2.5s, which have MUCH eaiser to access plugs. To fish it out, I fashioned a long hook out an old bicycle spoke. Bent it over on itself, hammered it thin, slid it in next to the boot. Spray some wd-40 in first.

I would suggest first testing resistance through the pickup coil of the distributor. Measure resistance between the 2 wires, and then wiggle and tug the wires a bit and see if it changes. If it ever goes to infinite resistance, there is a problem, and you need a disty. If not, I would be highly suspect of the stupid *rev sensor* or *FPCU* units that won't pass through power for the fuel pump unless an ignition pulse (tachometer) is present.