Gloyale

ughhh........really?

I'll bet the last person to change the plugs left the rubber sleeve from his socket slipped over the end of the plug. it is a real PITA when that happens Remove the intake tube for better viewing access

We used the standard GL 1.59 reduction. If you want to stick to 3.9, you will need a 3.9 EJ or FT4wd tranny for you're pinion shaft donor. Can't use the GL 3.9 pinion shaft with the AWD Anyhow, here is the new car in Low range, screwing around in my buddy back yard (an old wrecking yard) We hadn't dug the hole yet;)

Sometimes the crank pulleys will be stubborn, and not want to slide off by hand. Prying from behind WILL break them, so you do need a puller in that case. Any standard steering wheel puller will work perfect. There are 2 small holes on the pulley for the puller bolts. Problem is, most of them, these holes are not threaded yet. In that case you will also need a *M8x1.25 tap. use cutting oil and tap the holes, the tap will fit right in, no drilling required. Then use 2 bolts in the hole, and the steering wheel puller to pull off the crank pulley. It helps to put a smaller bolt in the crank bolt hole so you're puller doesn't booger up the threads. * Any thread pitch M8, or a 3/8ths standard would work, as long as you have the bolts to match.

I would advise NOT ABS brakes. The systems are getting old, and are not cheaply replaced or serviced. Plus they can actually cause an unstoppable skid in mud and ice. They won't let you give the wheels that final lock up to actually stop. you just keep rolling down the muddy hill. Sometimes you need to slide:grin: I always pull the ABS fuse in the 96 Outback when it goes off-road.

More than likely, since you shut down right away, you are fine. You can hope. Hang a belt on it, and then see how it runs. That is the easiest way to find out if there was further damage. You need the new belt anyway, unless you are swapping to a different engine. Worst case then you are out $50 bucks for diagnosis. A local subie shop may even be willing to give you an old belt to try for testing. 2.2 is a tough motor. This is certainly not the end of it if it was otherwise running well. Even if it does need a valve or two.

You mean 95. 95 *outbacks* were mearly a trim package. In 96, they actually put the lift on them. 96-99 are all lifted and use the same struts. I've done 3 conversions onto 1sat gen Legacy's and had no issue with this. No clunking. IDK

Get ready to drool. So, I was waiting to get this all finished and driving to post any pics. Well here ya go. First pics of the internals. Here is the 4.11 AWD pinion shaft, and the EA D/R main shaft, positioned in the D/R case. Here is the AWD tailsection mated to the Case. And finally, installed in the car (with adapter plate) and our home made Hi/Lo linkage. Let me tell you. This is the best thing ever. Dual range AWD while retaining the 4.11 gears. It makes hill climbing and mud bogging so much easier on the clutch.

Shaft bearings. They can wear quite abit before failing. But at some point splitting the case and replaceing a few bearings will be in order.

I thought that EA82T cups fit ontop 2wd EA81 axles. I know there are some axles that don't fit, but I thought the EA81 2wd axles are fatter shafts and fit the EA82T cups? At any rate, there definately are options for doing this. Honestly, for me though, I would swap the stubs in the trans. Alot of work, but when you are done, you never have to make hybrid axles again.

Is a battery disconnect switch not an option? I mean, it isn't a real *fix*, but you could keep the car around and enjoy it and just diconnect the battery when it isn't running. It wouldn't be the first weekend, classic enjoyment, just for fun driver to have a few *bugs* in it. Seems like crushing it would just be a terrible waste. I mean, it is probably one of the cleanest Old Subies on the east coast. You could enjoy it as is for a long time if you can accept it needing the battery disconnected when not in use.

Other possibilities are a bad ball joint, inner or outer tie rod end, or worn sway bar bushings.

shouldn't need to cut. Should be avke to simply swap the ea82T inner race, cage and cup onto the EA81 shaft. Or split open the cases and swap the 23 spline stubs into the FT4wd tranny. That way you could use standard EA81 axles infinitely.

I would try to find the correct filter, but really as long as it is an FI filter, and you can make the hoses reach it shouldn't matter. Return the Bosch plugs and get NGK or Denso. Subarus hate Bosch

I ran my rusty, 86 GL-10 like that for months until I could get a replacement front shaft shipped to me from Oregon. I was living in Wisconsin at the time. The driveshaft was so bad that one of the cups had rusted through and you could see the joint end flopping back and forth in the yolk. Drove 100+ miles per day for almost six months. Routinely on the freeway. One trip was over 500 miles at 70mph+ Trust me, with the rear drive section removed, there is ZERO torque going through it. At that point it is merely a plug. There is no reason for it to fail. If it is strong enough that you could not break it with your bare hands, it won't break from freewheeling behind the trans. I would trust driving like that almost infinitely.

There are no cables for the D/R linkage. Must be FWD automatic Impreza axles, 93-94 You'll need a 3.9 rear diff. Changing the front diff to 4.11 is VERY complicated, and requires grinding the corners of the teeth off the 4.11 pinion, and placing the whole AWD pinion shaft, and shift forks from your current trans into the D/R. Alot of work, and not something to do for the first time you even split a case. I believe you can use the front section of an EA82 D/R driveshaft. Gotta swap the carrier bearings, but otherwise I believe it would work.

No, it won't. There is no fuse or fusible link between the battery and starter. It is the only cicuit on the car that is not fused. And, the wire is a large enough gauge, that it COULD conduct the current, and absorb it as heat without melting. Esescially if the *short* was very slight and current was traveling through alot of corrosion at the post tot he starter case. IT CAN HAPPEN, without fuses blowing or wires melting (well, eventually they will melt, but can be weeks, months.....???)

Sweet car. It is a twin to my 84 4wd Sedan. Does it still have the digidash? Power windows? Yeah the 4wd sounds like just the button doesn't want to stay *in*

+1

Could the post on the starter that the batt cable bolts to be shorted out to the case? Sometimes tightening and loosening that nut on the post will crack the insulation around the post where it goes through the case. I am just trying to think of things that would have been disturbed in an engine swap.

Axles will interchange. Engine blocks will interchange. There are only 2 types of EA82 water pumps. 1 is short, 1 is long. No A/C or Dealer A/C is the long. Factory A/C (GL-10s, etc.) are short. Wiring will be different colors for alot of stuff, but alot of stuff is the same. Brakes and hubs, steering, etc. will all be the same.

You can adjust the idle using the recessed screw on the throttle body

No, he could run in FWD with only the front section of the driveshaft and the carrier bearing in place. The shaft would have zero stress on it, so the weak joint wouldn't have any reason to break. I have driven like this for many many miles, and there is no reason it wouldn't make it to the east coast.

That would be news to me. All the MT 90-94 Legacies and the first 2 years of Outbacks had them. I work on fewer Imprezas than any other subaru besides *rare* models like SVX, XT6.

It would work on a Phase II 2.2, which would be his easiest bolt in option anyhow If there is an Independant suby shop around there, they could test it using an old belt an pulleys.