Gloyale

did you keep good track of all the interlock pins and plates on the intake rocker assembly? Those AVCS engines can be tricky.....gotta get all pins and tabs engaged properly.

it's got to match the VIN. Primarily rules out a swap to manual. They just will want to know it's an Automatic and must have no codes thrown. So the phase II trans won't work electronically.

wheel bearing Drivetrain noise would be constant in proportion to the speed, and not affected by turning. only hearing it above 40, and when turning is most likely wheel bearing.

no it won't needs to be for 83-84 GL-10 Hardtop to be exact. Sedan would be next best. Wagon works too....but the difference will be in the display for doors ajar and wagon won't have turbo indicator.

you're high

yes you can swap sets. Just get the backlash setup correct

there are no adjustments on EA82 shifter

there should be 2 letters stamped at the edge of the heads, and on each cam case. might need to wipe with brake cleaner....should be on the top edge of the heads and cases like "NX" or "WN" match the letters on each head to the appropriate cradle.

Nevermind..... Found it. Subaru part # 721058060 Now to find out if they are still available.

Hey I was just wandering if anyone has a book to look up the part # for EA81 torsion bar bushings. The large one at the out end of the torsion tube.

SVX tcu will run the trans but won't like in a gearing sense. Just have to make sure the wiring is proper because the harness plugs may be different but basically everything else is the same. It will see a different RPM to Speed rate and maybe throw a code. But ultimately will work.

it's a function of the length. You get more travel at the wheel out of the longer axles, using essentially the same joints.

Bingo....my setup too. I pull one rear axle for road use. For this persons case, I would recommend a VLSD (91-94 turbo legacy is 3.9 and bolts in and uses same stub type axles) then do dual front E-brakes.

make sure teh strut mounts (tops) are pointed correct way. the center of the pivot should be towards the firewall.

With a 6" lift, and some very long bilsteins on my EA81 I was able to get a pretty good amount of travel, about 14". That required extending the shock mounts way up into the rear towers, actual up into the car behind the rear seat. And that required a 34" full extension shock. Now that is an EA81 w/ torsion bar, so the length of the spring isn't limiting. To do that with an EA82, you need said longer shock, say 30-34" inches, and a spring at least 26". It gets hard finding a shock/coilover setup that long. I have seen some "helper" shocks for pickups that have long coils on them.....gabriel I think. Try looking up something like that for trucks.

It is not usual. Who is telling you to resurface your flywheel? What problem are you having? There really is not ever a reason to resurface a flywheel unless it is related to a failed clutch.

you would need the longer matching springs to match. Otherwise you just get a fully compressed coil after 6-8 inches travel no matter how tall the shock.

automatic yes. (leave the front portion between trans and carrier, remove the rear half) Manual no. The center diff will spin......you might get a tiny bit of drive through the VLSD before it wears out.....but it's not gonna drive well or for long.

Tpically this type of job is done when replacing a clutch. No ussual to pull the trans to just resurface a flywheel. I ussually charge about $300 in labor for R+R of trans. Plus $50 for flywheels surface. $20 fluids and rags. Plus the cost of the clutch set, ussually $100~$175 depending on type and source. So if you are getting this done for around $500 total, that's what I would expect.....more than that is getting into gougin territory.

Because the fuse is in. It's a fueture for using donut spare on rear to disable rear drive. Normal use, remove the fuse and it will be 4wd.

yeah but then your AWD not 4wd so you only get one wheel loose and you're stopped. Just gotta treat those old 4wd D/Rs nice and keep em around.

bearings are available since they are shared with most early EJ 5spds. But the R+P sets have been zero'd out by SOA. Not available unless you can find NOS or aftermarket like Subagears.

I'm confused. Are we talking about 2 cars or 3 here. first you say 95 legacy, then you talk about 2 different 98 outbacks. none of them should have ruined anything by having a donut spare on the rear. No limited slip in the rear. Especially if you put the FWD fuse in. Manual cars do not have the FWD fuse option. You must have counted your chalk marks wrong. If you put a Manual rear diff in the auto you've got mismatched gear ratios. Manual 4.11, Auto 4.44 that will definately cause binding.

If the hole fits only an M10, they are standard EA82 If the hole fits an M12, they are XT6

This is a problem with a mental sate, not your wheels. I've driven fully across country twice now on redrilled 15" Toyota rims. Once in an EJ swapped GL-10 wagon, the second time in an 4wd XT 4cyl. You'll be more likely to be stuck unable to find an axle or front wheel bearing for xt6 than to have an issue with redrilled wheels (provided they are drilled well) Just trying to give you advice that will keep you driving rather than tinkering to cobble toghether a swap.