Gloyale

Test for continuity through the 2 distributor wires. Again, there should be 2 wires on each coil terminal. body harness B/W to + body harness Y to - (tach wire, will actually run without this) Disty harness wire, can't recall colors, but basically they just make a loop from + to - through the disty. So one wire to each side of coil.

You will have to adapt the 2.5 Throttle body to the older 2.2 manifold. Probably need a plate sandwiched between that blocks the 2.5 IAC opening. The IAC will now be unused. You will not have warm up idle control but after warmed up doesn't matter.

failed front CV axle. "slips" and then the rear drive engages. Have someone watch both CV axles for spin at the inner cup when put into drive.

The outside housing of the pump (the part the rotor rides inside) is scarred visibly in your photos. The new rotor will b´riding against that scarred suraface, and will chew itself up again. You can bet the rod and main beaings are shot. Infact if one of them spun and the port in it is now blocked, the rest of the crank could be starving for oil.

that block is trashed. The scars in the pump housing back side are bad. Expect new pump to fail sooner than later. But you may get some life out of it. Run heavy oil with lots of lucas.

Te original 4spd boot should fit just fine. Are you using the 5spd D/R lever as well?

I have personally seen a greater # of 25D rod failures vs. 2.2 or 251/3 and later Although it's mostly a matter of how often the oil was changed. 770? a Subaru #? or is that Cometic or something?

build it yourself. If you ask me, six inches of lift is too much for that brat unless you are swapping engine and drivetrain. With no lo range and the stock 1600, you are better off with maybe 2" lift and only a slight bump in tire size.

I did for my XT and my old GL. Just grab a set of arms from some newer vehichle, subaru legacy or whatever Cut off the end, weld it onto the old EA arm. Paint and reinstall.

So then a 99 would be an upgrade for 96-98 owners perhaps? Most notably I'm thinking the #5 thrust and larger 52mm rod journals vs. the 96-98 48mm.

with teh belts off, it's unlikey that the valves were open far enough to bend. They ussually don't hang out fully open against a lobe. Do some legwork before you condem it. Valve clearance check? Leakdown? Unless you are just trying to sell an engine.

There is no reason you can't pul the timing covers and the belt before pulling the engine. If you set the Cams to unloaded you can roll the crank over all day long with the belts off. Just make sure not to go backwards or you can damage the oil pump. I know a very competent local mechanic who chooses to do the headgaskets for subarus with the engine still in car. He uses a lift and does most work from underneath. Engine unbolted and shifted up off the crossmember. For reassembly, a short bungee cord stretched around the bolt heads will hold them halfway out of the head while they are slipped into place between the block and framerail. He warranties his work but has never had to redo one. JUst comfortable with a different way. Still perfectly acceptable method. Not my preference, I pull the engine. I don't understand why you would need a new longblock? Worst case from what you described is vavle damage from not setting the cams to a proper position.

That is from the water passage between the 2 block halves. If there is now no o-ring up there, you may get water leaking into the oil. There is also an orange o-ring at the back end of the crank, under the flywheel/flexplate. But I can't see how that would get to the oil pan. Sure it's not Orange RTV?

that should work. If it's a regular legacy it might have a 2.2 in it already. likely so IIRC the 2.5 didn't start til 96.

Unless they are aftermarket wires they will not be connected like that. Anyhow, sounds like your radio has a dead channel or a shorted channel. Common on Subaru stereo installs. Here's why. The factory wiring uses a common ground wire for both speakers on a side. So there is no way to properly wire 4 seperate channels like most aftermarkets. So what I do is use factory wire to one set Fronts or Rear doesn't matter which. in this case, I'd run the front 2 channels to the connector behind the radio. You will have 2 wires that would be for the positive signal to doors speakers that will be unused. The door speaker wires go through the rubber boot in the door jamb. Just under the kick panel trim is a junction were the wires will go through a pink 2 pole connector. Best bet for installing a new stereo is to run a new set of wires to these 2 pink connectors. Run these back to the stereo to the rear channel output.

IDK what you mean "pulling" the belt on. Should be no need for that. Belt should not be stretched AT ALL for installation. Simply slip it into place with the lower smooth roller and the tensioner not yet installed. Line up the belt to all 3 marks, and then install the compressed and pinned tensioner. This will be engouh to keep it from slipping yet. Then install the lower smooth roller, making sure to lift up on the belt to get enough room to install the bolt straight and not crossthreaded. Last step pull pin. No need to stretch or pull the belt with wrenches or whatever you are describing.

You should be aligning to the hashmarks at the outer edge of the pulleys. NOT the arrows, those are for Valve adjustment. Could be part of the problem. But if you broke the belt at speed, I would figure on needing to pull both heads and replace valves.

would still work on high. My guess is the relay is dead

Add a relay your ignition switch contacts can't pass enough juice. very common, known issue. Aslo good to check all battery cable connections but sounds like the Ig. switch to me.

I've seen teh valve guide crack in addition to bending the valves. Insepct them carefully before just slapping a new valve in.

flaky ignition switch. Add a relay. Or a direct pushbutton, or both.

actually for an 06 I do think the bumper cover comes off to get headlights. Since they eliminated the small removable panel just below the lights. The bumper skin includes the grill too. I would buy a new fixture. That year range is known for problems with this.

maybe they saw one too many Fast n Furious movies and put a "turbo timer" in it? Or I would guess the ignition switch is buggered.

Don't use 4wd on pavement. Only for soft soil. My guess is the trnas mounts are shot, and the movement of the trans relative to the body is causing the 4wd to disengage. Problem for EA71 and EA81 4wd cars. That is why in the EA82 they moved the 4wd shifter to the 5spd stay. So it is not connected/mounted to teh car body. So as trans jumps around, the lever moves with it instead of changin the engagement.

Check that you didn't accidentally disconnect the small wire to the rear of the starter? Sounds like you disconnected it maybe moving the low side A/C line around?