Gloyale

Chux nailed it. Front gets wider as it lowers Rear gets narrower as lowers

Well......where to start. You think finding Pugs is hard? Just getting harder to find parts for the rear rear XT6 stuff. But I guess if you do find it all fine to go ahead and use it. Then hope it doesn't strip or where the hubs ever cause then you'll be F-ed. The issue for me is the front. I love using the dual E-brake mod on the front wheels. Combined with a welded rear diff gives you amazing traction and climbing ability on very uneven ground. For any 5 lug setup, you will need some kind of EJ strut. To get ones with tall engouh perches to clear offroad size tires, you will need Outback or Forrester struts. which are super tall and requires adjusting the height of lift blocks vs. cradle drop to get the geometry right. To keep the front E-brake, you need XT6 knuckles and axles. And axles being a consumable, you will want to have a trail spare. rare axles that won't be available much longer. not ideal for wheelin. If you go Impreza Knuckles and axles....aside from reaming arms, and changing out to different struts. You will have bottoming out in the inner cup when the axle plunges. And then you have NO ebrake, unless you re-route/swap EJ cables and handle to the rear and use 240sx calipers. And either way you will find your wheel choices for offset become more limited. just alot of work and mostly money/time/aquiring parts issues to just trash on trails. A properly redrilled set of six-lug wheels works great. Why so much hesitation to go that route?

no. you can't access all the rod caps without splitting block. you can however pull the pistons from the top. Replace rings. Seldom seen a lower end issue with EA82. not enough power to do damage typically.

the weakest part of the rear end is the hollow stub axles coming out of the diff. So adapting 930 cv's won't really help that. unless you use the entire rear subframe, you are stuck with the subaru torsions too. 95-99 leagcay and outbacks use an inner joint on the axles that will fit onto the EA81 rear shafts.....then you can use the "female" diff with the "male" innercups with solid stubs built in. I mean, custom fab is awesome......I just don't see alot of benefit in going that direction.

Use an EJ22 w/ EGR manifold or just plug the hole in the head. EJ18 ECU will run the 2.5 no prob. Won't get the max power out of it, but will run fine.

Could be the valving in the power steering rack, if it has PS.

looks like a Ford or GM unit to me. Maybe Pinto? Who the heck knows what is controlling it. Sorry but we likely won't be much help with that setup.

Lots of subarus were not made for California emmisions. even with an exemption, there is a fee for out of state vehichles. And it certainly won't pass smog running like the poop bucket you claim it is now, eh? I paid $3500 for a perfect running, zero rust Oregon LL bean H6 8 months ago. I saw similar cars in California ads. My father lives there and buying a car and bringing it out of Cali is easy, so I was shopping in that market too. You're the one paying that and every, by your own statements, "outrageous" cost of buying a salt belt state car with a beat engine and then getting some dumb rumproast to improperly fix it and transporting it 3000 miles across the country. So who is clueless? tell me again?

not quite following? You want 2 calipers at each rear wheel? If you just want rear ebrakes, use nissan 240sx calipers on a set of GL-10 or XT turbo backing plates. They are cable activated though. If you want hydraulic, you are going to be fabbing that.....nothing stock exists. Why do you want rear ebrake on a FWD car? Tell me you aren't going to try to make a "drift car" out of a 92 loyale.

Bulk crap it isn't. mountainous state where it snows and nobody uses chains. They salt the crap out of the roads. No quite wisconsin or Michigan rust, but certainly more salt exposure than a west coast car. And how the hell are you going to get it through smog. IDK what to tell you, but definately get it to someone who knows Subarus.....and that is not the dealer.

after 96 hillholder only operates one front wheel. And he would have to pump brakes while pressing in clutch to set it. Once the clutch pedal was released it would release. Doesn't really sound like his issue if it rolled for 5 feet then stopped.

yes. if nothing else it will give you a chance to clean the oil rings of all the burnt gunk and get them unstuck and scraping cylinder walls of oil properly.

loosen in revers order. Outers first, then centers. and yes 180 loosened should yeild basically no torque. at least lesd than the 24/19 ft/lbs you will be going up to before the final 90+90 degree tightening.

m14? on the head? what the hell part are you trying to tap? I can't htink of anywhere on a subaru head that uses m14? unless you are meaning the spark plug hole. If that's the case DO NOT use a helicoil or other helical insert. You need a full sleeve "spark plug hole" repair kit. might be better off trying to find a good core head to use rather than trying to fix. It can be tricky on those deep recessed holes and if you screw up you will have spark plug rocket out of the hole.

it won't be a standard tap. you need one designed to be used with that size helicoil. Ussually they are included in the helicoil kit for each given size.

torque all in sequence from center to outers, all to 27, then all to 37, then all to 47 ft/lbs. loosen all bolts 180 degrees, basically til loose, no torque tighten center bolts to 24 ft/lbs tighten outers to 19 ft/lbs tighten all in sequence from center to outers, first 90 degrees. Then again around an additional 90 degrees.

What's to? build. Grab the spacer from an outback. done. or drill 2 holes in a piece of steel tubing. nothing to "build" here. Nothing to fabricate, weld, etc.

also a GM oil pressure sending unit with 3 pins can be used. 1 pin operates the stock "oil" light the other pins are a pass through switch that closes when oil pressure present. run the Fuel pump + through that switch. might require adapter and or "T" fitting to install on an EA81. But works well on EA82 oil pumps in the upper, smaller port where the factory oil light switch would go.

if you disconnect the plug at the switch does it still pop?

put a timing light on it to see where it's at. then if it's too far off lift up disty and reset the rotor appropriately

the XT6 arms do have the larger mounting point bushing and bolt. And the rear axles are a bit beefier shaft and outer CV. Probably just beat up the bearings hammering. replace them and get some XT6 hubs and brake parts. If all you want is bigger rims for wheeling, go six lug. better wheel options and easier to replace parts from 4cyl setup than anything XT6. 5 lug for show 'n street rigs only.

disty out of time or no power to coil. Got spark at all?

they won't need replacing. just adjust them. its just a parking brake all EJ engine mounts interchange. EJ18/20/22/25 all of em. you either got a part for a different car entirely, or you measured wrong.

the distance between the trailing arm pivots will be more critical to compare. That's the measurment that determines where on the arms the mounts would need to be to keep the swaybar "arms" in line with the trailing arms.

Green is for timing and some "active" testing. actually the white connectors are the stored code readout connectors. If you have them hooked up, and the IG. is on with no codes in memory, it will do as you describe.