Gloyale

yeah, you really have to adjust at the wheel for pad wear. the handle adjustment really just compensates for a bit of cable stretch. Any of the motor mounts would work. all EJ mounts will interchange.

tps may not have like being sprayed with solvent. or it could have washed carbon and gunk into the tps interfering with sensor operation.

misadjustment of tps? or otherwise damage to the tps which would mean get another one.

96-99 also 98-04 forester same cars trans crossmembers have round spacers that will drop the trans mount too. some spot welded on but easy to cutoff wheel. (might need to adjust the shfter rear mount i.e. tab forward) grab the longer bolts too. might want to drop the carrier bearing mount a half in. or so too.

Outback crossmember spacers will fit the EA82 and are 1-1/4"

Since subies are ground switched, I wonder if the LED polarity is backwards.....espescially on the outers with hi/lo. you could make a relay bank triggered by the subie wiring but sending power to bulbs with + switching. Honestly I am a bit confused by your description. What excactly is your setup?

thank you. I was gonna call this out too but trying to let more stuff go. The OP just needs to do a leakdown.......listen for the wooshing air and that will tell where it's going.

i can tell you now you are going to want to run a new set of wires to the front speakers. You can run the wires just to the kickpanels and connect to the factory wires just before they go through the door pillar. (2 pole pink connectors....blue wires are the -neg ) this is because the factory setup uses a common ground between F/R speakers. So you run new wire to teh fronts, and use the factory wires at the radio to connect to the rear speakers. Don't have diagrahms to post, since Photobucket got lame. but maybe I can look up some wire colors. I will see what I can find in my FSMs

you need to adjust the parking brake shoes. there is no automatic adjustment so you must do it manually through the oval access holes in the backing plates. there is an adjusting tool in the factory tool bag if you still have it. Or you can buy an adjuster tool, looks like a bent screwdriver. there is a starwheel in there you catch with the tip and pry upwards. (wheel goes up, adjuster tool handle goes down)

get a timing light on it. set it to specs which I believe is 8 btdc. no reason to pull engine.

solenoid and the TCU ground through a bolt inside the trans. one of the valve body bolts IIRC. I would check the ground wire from trans to body at top of the trans. One would think being bolted to the engine is enoguh, but I've seen weird issue with things not working well without a direct ground for the trans. If anything, tie the pin 4 wire (still connected to both TCU and Duty C) to the body ground....but don't cut just add "t"

that's silly. same car with smaller motor, driven the same, will go a little slower, and get slightly better gas mileage. generally speaking. there is a point were too small would be a hinderance, but swapping from 2.5 to 2.2 will see either same or improved mileage. Unless he flogs the engine harder to try to still drive as fast. I get 1-2 mpg better consistantly with my Forester w/ 2.2. not a big deal but it's certainly not worse.

yes it would be but they don;t exist......... or nobodies done the legwork to find what they would fit from. So yeah........Somebody get on that.

Worn Ignition switch contacts. replace the switch, or add a relay or pushbutton or both. I personally like a pushbutton that triggers a relay......but the 12v+ for the button I run through a first relay triggered on by the key on......so no accidental;y cranking starter without key on.

??? Really?? I didn't know that. For whatever reason I rarely ever get Imps in my shop......all OB and Frosties, a few older Legacy and a few old gens. Of the hundreds of cars I service each year, for 8+ years now, I can count on one hand the # of Imprezas I've worked on. is there any sort of serviceable filter or just the sock in the tank? seems pretty dumb idea to me......right up there with "stretch on" A/C belts.

95 2.2 from an automatic is the excact direct bolt in. Dual port exhaust, EGR 96-98 2.2 will work also, but will need the front section of the "y" pipe to swap from dual to single port exhaust. otherwise identical swap.

what year and engine, and which tensioner bolts? Timing belt? Alt belt? A/C belt?

easiest way I can think of is to use the front diff section of a 4eat. it could be trimmed down for less bulk. but starter stays on trans side. I have seen EA81 engines setup for aircraft use that have the starter mounted engine side sort of under the pass side head. Required a modified oil pan. Also since the OE engine mounts are not used for aircraft there is no interference from that either.

It's pretty easy, relatively, to pull the wrist pins and pop the pistons out. No need to mess with the "bottom end" rod and main bearings. then you can more thoroughly clean or even lightly bottle hone the cyls. and either replace, or simply clean out the dried burnt oil from the oil control rings.

this should probably be in the parts wanted section. That said, which side window glass? I have one 1st gen brat door window in my storage......I'd have to check which side it is.

I know you can fit 235/75/15 on 96-99 Outback struts that was with stock forester steelies I saw an Anderson Fab kit on a car recently and it was a strut bottom lift....required 1" wheel spacers.

basically are the cam followers riding on the lobes or is there slop when on the 'closed' portion of the cam

worn valve guides would not cause a no compression result. I mean they might be worn......but that's not the problem.....not part of the combustion chamber. They seal the valve stem, not the chamber. you need to check that the valves are closed....which they look to be from pics but you'd have to measure to tell for sure. But everything in my mind is saying cracked piston/blown ring land.

yes dude you are gonna kill that rack. I actually have experience with this.. tried a "mini-drop" on my ea81 sedan.....2 thick washers, about 3/8th in. had to replace the rack within 6 months cause the bearing and seal on the input where shot and leaking. I thought like you "it'll be okay" against the advice of this board. That was ten years ago.

there are 2 factory relays under the hood int eh main fuse box. You could check the connectors on them for corrosion. But my guess is that you have a faulty connector at the bulb. Often cause by installation of some fancy "hi-output" psuedo HID bulb at some point in the past. The connector may need replaced again. wtdash is refering to a secondary, aftermarket system that can be installed to bypass the stock wiring (using it only as a trigger) and passing voltage in a shorter path to the bulbs through fresh wiring . Be careful though, as most of those setups are for american, positive switched systems. Subarus and many other use Negative switching. if you go that route make sure you understand the difference.