Gloyale

I am dubiuos of this accuracy for US market. Since hte latter is listed for a 2.5 LL bean 2.5 Legacy. Doesn't exist in US. Also listed for a VDC model???? wouldn't that be a different trans? GT's have 4.44 gears, Regular Legacys and LL beans have 4.11 I wouldn't trust this as conclusive

don't make a harness. Strip one down complete from a compatible car. Do you have the intake? how many large connectors to the body harness does it have? If you don't have an intake get one. Preferaby from complete harness donor car to make sure the connectors match. Legacy 90,91 is 3 connector, 92-94 is 2 connector. Or you could run it with any Impreza 2.2 or 95-98 OBD-ii 2.2 or 2.5 computer from Outback or legacy or even 98 Forrester. You just have to get a matching OBD II 2.2 intake. But for the love of god......search.....there is so much info on harness prep and what works for what.

And he's using 2 matching old tires not one mismatch so no worry if it is an LSD

there should be a FWD fuse there. It will be at the end of a row of relays. At the firewall end of the box. Look at the diagrahm on the insdie of the fuse box lid. It's a small recess for the fuse, easy to miss but definately should be there. Consult the owners manual about using the spare tire and you will find more info.

did you make sure to fully and properly seat the torque converter? My guess is no, and that the drive tube snout is tearing up the pump drive.

go with an older 2.2 or 1.8 Plenty of torque for wheeling, and you won't be as likely break stuff. Plus 90-96 are non-interference. You don't want an interference engine in a wheeler

Cam bolts very tight. Crank bolt even tighter. Other bolts just enough tight. Excact torquing of these parts not required

looks like a decent deal to me. small amounts of rust can be fixed. And those are some stylin wheels I must say. Never seen them before.

Centric is chinese generic garbage. I use a set of rear wheel bearings from them on my wheeler and they were MASSIVELY failed within a few months of occassional driving. Garbage. I would trun the OE rotors or buy new OE from subaru. They won't rust as bad, superior alloy. Centric is EBAY bullshit I wouldn't put on my worst enemies car.

Guys, remotes are not that expensive. IDK why the OP here thinks they cost first "several hundred dollars" then by the end of his post it's "$700 a piece" Something doesn't add up. These don't cost that much. Pretty sure I paid $68 for the last one I bought from the dealership. You can use generic replacement from Autobone or whatever. Just have to program them right. It's one step above a garage door opener people, not rocket science compared to all custom work and efforts that go on here on the board. I personally just don't understand the "me no understand, Hulk smash puny alarm system" type of thinking. Not for something so easily and readily solved by spending a few bucks.

blown rear shocks or mount

It is an interference motor. But the belt should still be fine. They don't break unless an idler seizes. replace it at 100k. $780 is resonable considering their parts markup and labor rates. Although that said I do them all the time for about $500 including all idlers, cam and crank seals, and waterpump. Brakes if they have pad, run em until they don't and then replace rotors unless the shaking is bothering you. If you do new rotors, you must get new pads or they will ruin the new rotors. $170 is steep for a battery. Tires are fine if you think they have enough meat still. To my knowledge Cabin air filters for "legacy" based subarus started with the redesign in 2005

I have seen a car where someone moved the whole seat mounting point. this was on a Power seat 03 outback, so the rail trick was no go. Basically he made 2 strips of steel with a hole that bolt into the original mounts. Bent the steel back over the mounting "hump" and ending with a tab that the original seat mounts can bolt to. In the back he simply drilled new holes in the floor and tunnel and bolted through the bellypan using washers to reinforce.

You DO NOT have AWD. You have selectable, part time 4wd. My guess is that you are trying to drive on pavement with the 4wd engaged, and you have mismatching tires so the drivetrain binds from the wheels trying to go different distances per rotation. Same problem with turning. Push the lever down until you get to 2wd mode. Use the 4WD only on slippery surface like sand, mud, and snow. NEVER ON PAVEMENT.

Shaped like and sometimes refered to as the "dogbone". It goes from firewall above the engine, and down to the bracket on the EA82 bellhousing. If you don't have one, you need one. Not having one will cause the enigne to buck and jump around. Checking your motor mounts too is a good idea but if you don't have a pitch stopper, that is a problem. And still, The way you describe them blowing out "parallel with the axle" sounds like expansion blowout from heat. Ussually ripping from too much flexing happens along the lines of the boot ridges.

Do you have a pitch stopper????

Just remove the rear transfer hub discs. Plug the rear output. I think you want to leave the transfer hub in there though so the upper shaft can't walk rearward. But if you remove the friction discs no rear output will spin. Just plug the hole with the cutoff end of an old driveline, or anything else that is suitable. Subaru 4eat has full mechanical (gears) engagement to the front diff at all times.

So I just looked at the FSM, and apparently the California model 85 EA82's do use a 2 wire sensor. But the 2 spades are not connected so to speak. What I would do is turn the key on, and ground each of the wires in the connector one at a time. Which ever one results in the gauge pegging to hot, is the gauge wire. the other one goes to the ECU. So you can install a standard 1 spade sender and just run that one wire to it and leave the other disconnected.

Did you bottom out the joint while burping the air out of the boot after you regreased? When they heat the air expands, maybe you are popping them?

Sounds like you put a fan thermoswitch in instead of a Sender. IIRC, temp Sender should have only 1 spade. Thermoswitch in the trans controls fans, noit teh ECU. In fact, those old Feedback ECU's don't really do spoob other than vary the mixture by opening/restricting the air bleeds for the emulsions. Disconnect that stupid ECU. it will run much better.

do you have a pitch stopper? if not, get one installed

+1

That connector is for the knock sensor. If you look, it has 2 poles, but on;y one pin/wire inside it. Should go under the throttle body, to the knock sensor. Which should be bolted to the rear top of the block just to drivers side of centerline of the engine.

The engine bay charcoal canister is now unessecary. Just loop a piece of tubing from between the 2 lines that would go to that engine bay canister. 2 pole connector at the back of intake? Knock sensor? Or I know there were some models that had a Air Temp sesnor in the intake plenum? Right above the middle PCV line.

set the ignition timing? Checked all PCV and IAC and Vac hoses?