Gloyale

I would attach the "charge" light wire and leave other off. Might control voltage better. at any rate to track down the drain put an Ammeter between teh negative battery post and the Neg cable. You will see the draw in amps or milliamps. begin pulling fuses from the fuse box until the draw goes away. Once you know which fused system has the draw you can begin testing by unplugging individual components. If none of the fuses make a difference. Then try disconnectiing hte Alt. If that eliminates the draw there is at least a partial short in the ALT.

Both my local Machinist are Strabysumatic (cross-eyed) I think it actually helps them line stuff up like when you close one eye to look through the sights of a gun. HAHA

I hear ya. And for most things I agree. The exhaust stud issue for these cars is my exception. I do like your idea of helicoil in the steel spacers. Also a good fix, but doesn't apply to EA82 or Deleted ASV spacer EA81s. Or any EJ's. I had to repair 4 studs on a EJ25d just last week. I have just had too many bad experiences with helicoils coming out the next time the exhaust is removed. Threadserts are better. But more expensive. Customers don't like to pay my price of $35 a piece for the cost/time/trouble of installing an insert of any kind. By using the 7/16th, it's quick, you leave room for future repair, and I can charge $10 for the same fix. When you have 4 studs on the same engine to fix, the difference between $40 and $140 is signifigant to the customer.

Gary is a great guy. 1 Guy. He has no employees. No secretaries, or counter manager or parts department. Just a great guy fixing old subes for 20+ years. An excellent, experienced mechanic. He makes his money doing work on cars, not as a wrecking yard selling parts. Espescially not ones he has to ship. I doubt the money you were gonna spend with him would come close to any kind of profit for him once he goes through the trouble of shipping it to CA for ya. Plus it would deplete his inventory of parts he could use for local, good paying jobs for customers that respect him. The "SoCal" attitude won't get you very far in the laid back PNW. Change it, and you might find someone here on the board to help with what you need. Try the "wanted" forum here.

Skip the helicoil and get 7/16 exhaust studs and a tap. You can get that size stud at most auto parts stores. The ones I like to use are corse thread on the head side, and fine thread on the end that holds the pipe. This way you can tap the head directly, without having to drill out more material and chancing the helicoil coming out further down the road. And it leaves enough meat so that if they strip again, you can still then go to a M10 helicoil or threadsert. ****bonus**** the standard studs are cheaper than metric and easier to find in longer sizes.

Simple fix would be to put a "double up" spade on the starter terminal. Connect both your pushbutton wire, and the original starter wire to teh spades. Now when you hit your pushbutton, the current will also be passed to the original system and the ECU will see the starter signal volts.

yes EA82 rear springs sit directly on perch. Upper hat has a rubber

the linked articale for this picture calls this a group of toyotas. ha.

Just keep in mind the taller the lift the bigger the leverage the blocks have against the body. Meaning that you will rip the captive bolts out of the body if you don't crossbrace the lift blocks. And even then you still might. I'm just gonna say it.......If you can't get it done with 6 inches, you ain't gonna get there with 7.

You have to pull the timing belt components to change cam seals and pretty much gott pull cams and do a fair bit of tricky math to get your correct shims swap them around whatever. PITA. I doubt the issue is valve lash. It's the tensioner or it's rod knock. both are common failures in 25Ds. Put a 2.2 in it. lol

31" wil not fit without wheel spacers. So 7 inch is maybe a bit much. 3 inches is enough to fit 29" (235/75/15) with trimming. And you want a Dual range 5spd from a 85-89 GL (not hatch or brat) You will need an adapter plate and a redrilled flywheel. Personally I would leave the Auto. It can crawl better and you can rebuild/modify the 4wd transfer to work very much like a true locked 4wd. Go for the swap later if you burn up the 4EAT.

Leave the original steering shaft on the rack. Just get an early outback coupler. 96-04 should work. And to woodswagons post, I believe he is incorrect. Lot's of foresters and later outbacks had a rubber isolater (rag joint) built into the middle portion. Not an aftermartket.

nah the VDC automatics use a planetary ger set and lock/unlock the sun gears to send power forward/back Standard 4eat cannot alter the front output, only the rear.

Yeah the kit for the DLs mounted them there, since the DL had it's own steering wheel not compatible with the wheel mounted buttons. From what I recall though, the power mirror switch is on the other side of the dash.

Exactly. You probably got a clogged emulsion tube. Primary main tube most likely. Pulling too much fuel and no air to mix with it. As soon as the secondary main circuit begins to open, you get the mixed gas you need. But in the transition between you get too much gas, no atomization. remove the top of the carb. Unscrew the 4 emulsion tubes (2 of them are under caps. Need a very skinny flathead screwdriver) Clean them out with carb cleaner and/or compressed air.

As long as it's not a VDC model, any 99-2004 trans tailshaft should work. My bet is you've got worn clutchpak. The discs get thin, and then the hydraulic force all goes into just closing the gaps before actually clamping on the satck and transfering drive. I'd disassemble and install some new clutches and/or shim the old ones with a thicker retainer. I've added one extra set of discs to the stack to take up the slop. Scavenged from another junk trans. BTW, what is the "snow switch" you speak of? something you guys got in NZ? Like a second gear start/traction control?

Because these aren't your fuses. Individual circuits around the car have fuse protection through the interior fuse box. If all is correct, the fusible links will never ever need to melt. They are merely there to prevent a direct short to the battery in an accident or odd case of mice chewing or some other "dead short" to ground of the wires running between the Fusible link box and the main fuse box. Where your actual circuit protection happens. You don't want the combined loads of the accesories in the car to get anywhere close the Fusible link max. But in the case of a dead short somewhere between the Fusible link box and the fusebox, it will try to draw as many amps as are available from the battery.....i.e. several hundred. So as long as you have some sort of FL in there it will do it's job. You can buy fusible link wire in rolls, of different gauges, and crimp spade connectors on. Very easy.

You must swap over the 4wd trailing arms. cannot put 4wd hubs onto 2wd arms Can use 2wd brakes but need a 4wd drum to fit or a 4wd rear disc setup would be great too.

Check timing belt

Unless you lift the car so high the wheels are no longer in the wells, you will always be limited by the diameter of the wheel well opening. Moslty at the lower corners. The opening is only so big across.

Subaru uses multiple, redundant grounding throughout the harness. 1 item not working could be a ground. Multiple not working is more likely a Fusible link or main power wiring issue. Possibly an ignition switch wire. Espescially if the wire is any other color than black. Subaru main harness ground wires are always black.

You can use wide lift blocks for the crossmember spacer. Drill holes inboard for the EA71 body, and then outboard to fit the EA82 crossmember. You're gonna have lots more fabrication than that to do if you start trying to mix and match front end pieces.

For automatics, a large screwdriver or prybar can be placed through the slots/holes in the Flexplate. Access through the rubber plug at the back of the engine. Just be careful not to let the prybar rest against the TPS or IAC or any of the throttle body parts.

If the "Check Engine" light illuminates at Key on, then the computer has power and ground.

GL-10 and XT6 rear brakes are the same. One thing though is the bolt hole in the arm may be larger. You will need whole the XT6 "K" bar/crossmember, or enlarge the mounting holes on the GL-10 bar.