Gloyale

holy old threads Batman! Anyhow thanks for using the search function. MLS gaskets are only for the EJ25 EA82 gaskets are composite. I buy "Stone" branded HG sets which are typically a reboxed Japanese OE set or the closest that exists to OE now nearly 25 years after the last EA82s were made.

MPFI has idle control. Either on top of the thermostat housing (flat manifold) Or a cylindrical type under the intake (spdier) ussually they fail to a high idle, since when warmed up they supposed to close anyhow. Or they cause too low an idle when cold but once warm it should run the same as if it was totally plugged.

Buy a complete 2.2 engine from a 95 Automatic non-outback legacy. The 95 model w/auto has EGR, and Dual port ex. so it's the one you want for a plug-n-play with no codes. Re-seal it or just Install it directly into your car. Done. Other 2.2 engines can work also 90-94 legacy 2.2 with a changing over wiring from you're 2.5 manifold. 96-98 2.2 with the use of the single port exhaust. Many if not most of those will not have EGR, so you will have codes for them but they will run great. I would think you could get a rusted out early legacy w/ good engine and swap it over inexpensively.

I think he means he'd take the whole car. Asking if he should commit to a 2.5. Swapping rides not, swapping motors

Seller has alot of Negative feedback form folks claiming this guy doesn't actually have the parts, but tries to get them after you order them. Listing shows No picture of part. I would be surprised if he actually has them. I might order and see cause I need them, but this is a one off sale. NOS I am guessing if it actually exists. Or it's a 4cyl gasket which will not work. Bottom line these engines are not going to be supportable for much longer. That's why I am EJ swapping almost all the rest of my Xt6 projects. I've got one running ER27 engine. It leaks a oil a little from the HGs. If it starts leaking internally it's gone. I will put an EJ251/3 in them and call it good. Same horsepower, better cooling, better mileage. Bonus.....Use an EJ power steering pump and delete troublesome Electric PS.

Yup. Cause we know that is the most productive way to go. If someone wants to upgrade obsolete platforms fine. We are just telling them the problems that are known. Don't want advise? Want to do what you want? Fine. But when asked, we give the best advice possible. Which in almost all these types of cases is "EJ" it.

Yeah the shaft seal is still available. It's the rubber "mickey mouse" like gasket. It's not the same as an EA82. That is not available from any of my sources.

Can really get oil pump seals for the er27 anymore. I've been looking.

There is a cone shaped screen in the inlet of the pumps that can get clogged too. PITA rump roast to pry out but worth checking.

Something to consider before taking apart the running impreza. If you get it. Which even just in 2wd they are great durable little cars. The EJ18 is bulletproof. I would bet if the Outback is an Ohio car that's been sitting in the weeds, you are gonna have alot of trouble with rust and broken bolts. The Imp being 2wd might have been less salt exposed. I would seriously check the condition of the rear crossmember and the structure on both cars where it bolts in. Check rear strut towers too. You may need to slot/widen holes for the rear tophat. I think the OB ones may be larger pattern. If the rust is bad on either car the whole project could turn into a nightmare. If neither car is too rusty, and you think you can get the rear subframe and rear struts out, having AWD and the added height from the OB woudl be worth doing in my opinion, if you have the time and desire. Oh and yes all the clutch pedal parts would swap over

Ballast resisotr for the Trans solenoids. not needed.

If all that changed was you messed with the exhaust and O2 sensor, it should run. You should be able to run the car without any O2 sensors at all. I'm still gonna bet you've got the air intake not installed correctly. Loose hose? Did you plug the MAF back in?

Hold "DISP" button while using the tune up and down buttons. That absolutely is the correct procedure if it doesn't work then the stereo is broken.

Actually very, very little from an EA82 car will fit an EA81 without modification. EA82 intake will fit the EA81. EA82 wheels fit the EA81. Same brake light bulbs. Still not much even with small modification. If you swap the entire front crossmember, control arms, axles, knuckles and radius rods, you can use it all toghether with the EA81 radius mounts. widens the front track considerably. With enough modification anything can work.... but my feeling is this guy is trying to stay original. Whatever the reasons I don't understand.

test light. Just probe the back side of the injector while cranking, you should see the light glow dimly and pulse with the time of the engine. scotts tip about the corroded injector wires is a good one. Common issue on XT

Nah there's plastic ones still. And if cracked at the top it would be seeping vapor, but not actually leaking liquid oil. It cannot be just cut and removed if thats what it is. it seals the crankcase and has baffles that are part of the PCV venting system.

If you can pull the plugs, you can do a compression test. Just need a tester with a long flexible tube that can thread into the spark plug hole. The ones that you hold against teh hole are worthless anyhow. Get a proper tester and then yes you can comp test it. This is a basic one. Longer hose would be better, but this should work. https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-Compression-Tester-Piece/dp/B000EVU89I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1498501232&sr=1-4&keywords=compression+tester

Hold the "disp" (display) button down while using the tuning buttons to operate the clock. "down" does hours and "up" does minutes.

If you don't have A/C then you only need one belt for EA82. Although, some setups have Dual pulleys for all items, so you can run 2 identical belts for redundancy.

Actually, the lifted cars it would be even harder, as the engine and the disty move lower in between teh frame rails. Unless you are talking about an 8in lift or something crazy. then the engine would be fully below the frame rails. just not really an upgrade to go from EA81 to EA82.

I am wondering if you cracked and bent the Seperator plate? That is the only plastic anything inside the bellhousing if it is not the inspection hole cover itself. If that is broken yes the engine (or trans) will need to come out to access and replace it with a metal one which is better anyhow.

Might and I say MIGHT be able to use Early STI hubs from a WRX. (up to '07 I think) They are 114 and I think fit the same bearing. If nothing else get the Whole STI knuckles but that will be more $$$$

Yeah, like a customer of mine did a few days ago. Brought the car in for a new fender after a parking lot mishap, and she asks "while it's here, can you change the oil? The oil light's been on for a few days so I figure it must be due" So I drained the old oil, changed the filter and filled her up. The amount of oil that came out of the pan when drained would fit in a beer can. Told her that her engine will not be lasting much longer, but she will need to check oil much more often for as long as it does keep running. It sounded fine, and no flakes in the oil. EJ251 is much more robust than the old 25D which would have been toasted. Sad thing is she probably lost more oil than "usual" for the car because of an overtightened and profusly leaking Oil Can Henry's oil filter from her last oil change.

Compression test to make sure you didn't lose time. I know they are a chain engine but if previous owner didn't change oil often they can fail.

Remember, you want to look at the "hash" or "line" markings on the edge of the pulleys, not the arrows in the middle. Gotta check that even if the Cams are lining up with eachother, are they both lining up with the crank pulley. So if you haven't pulled the center cover to check it would be worth it. Without pulling the cover first, The quick and dirty way to check is to look at the 4 holes in the crank Dampener. If they are not in a perfect straight up and down cross when the Cam hashes are up then its a few teeth off. you want dashes up, not arrows. And yes for sure double check the 3 pcv hoses and the IAC hose and the little vac line to the FP regulator and MAP sensor if equiped