Gloyale

gate timing kits a junk. chinese garbage. Get OE/Japanese only.

nope split was in late 96 for the 97 model year. If it's a 96 with it's original engine it will be non-interference. You could carry the belt and a pre-compressed tensioner and fix it if it breaks and be back on the road. Minimum I would suggest is to change belt and the cogged idler roller. everything else is optional.

yeah that would explain the hot and smokin black fusible link. that's the one ALT charge goes through.

yes will fit. use 215 or 225/55/16 60 series may also fit but will be larger than stock rolling diameter and might rub a little.

Backwards. ECU grounds the that pin to illuminate light. So if your are seeing 12v, you are seeing the power through the unlit bulb and no ground on the ECU side to light it. If the light was on you'd get zero volts or full ground. I would check all the ECU grounds for continuity to body, and check the intake ground bolt.

Oh my friggin god, I about choked on my coffee. EAlbatross82!!! Hey at least there is a way to loosen the noose in the form of an EJ22. The OP here has the best platform too. MPFI car to start, Large line, Baffled fuel tank and F.I. pump. And if it's 5spd, he can stuff it's guts in a EJ trans case and use EJ clutch no adapter plate without any driveline or shifter mods and keep true 4wd and or difflock whichever he's got. Being an 87 could be either.

I just don't understand why either Nuetral or reverse switch would be removed for doing a clutch? Do people not look for connectors? It's like when someone removes all the sensors and wiring from an intake before pulling the engine, rather than unpluggin the entire harness connector. I guess you gotta learn somehow.

How did the firing order being off solve the fuel issue? Did you not have the distributor plugged in? That would stop fuel from flowing during cranking, but still should have had an initial priming at key on. What did you fix?

I"ve done it, and would not recommend again. The EJ rack is too wide between the inner tierods. (needs to be the same distance as between control arm pivots minus the distance from lower ball joint to tie rod arm of the knuckle.) What happens is you can get the Toe correct while wheels pointed straight and stationary. But movement of the suspension up and down, and turning wheels side to side the alignment goes off. Toe out during suspension plunge and in turns. The car was and is driveable. But it eats tires and feels weird in fast curvy road sections. I found a good EA82 rack in a late loyale 2wd sedan. Look for a 2wd one, they aren't as beat on and ussually in good shape.

bleed the clutch slave

If the line is sanpped either place I can imagine, It will just be easier and cheaper. If it's the line that runs along the trailing arm, it's easy to replace the whole section with a 20" piece of ready made, fitted line. If it's where it comes out of the body, the line is likely rusted too much to get a purchase to cut, unless you did it inside under the seats. Then you are still buying the fitting to slip on after the line, and new line to replace the cut out section. You Chux, are a top level seasoned Suby pro, so to speak. You have developed the long term skill of how to do things like this. I get the feeling the OP of this thread may not be so seasoned. I think he's got a better shot at an easy, succesful repair by buying an easily available off the shelf piece.

Oh, you mean a really big wire. That is the Negative cable to the engine. It does indeed go to a tab, that is bolted thorugh the upper starter bolt.

sounds like the body to transmission ground. but not positive

no luck for me either. I am hoping to scavenge a good newer seal from the parts rig i just picked up. looks like the rubber is soft and newer. my only solution.

it's way up in the upper left corner of the dash. i'd check the ground wire bundle on the intake manifold for a good ground first.

No cam seals. FB timing chain engine.

plug in the green diagnostic connectors. this will make the fuel pump cycle on and off. Or it should. If you can hear the relay clicking, but the pump doesn't run.....start checking fuses, and maybe jumper a wire to teh fuel pump under the seat. Oh and check the intake manifold grounds again. All ECU function ground through the bolt on the intake.

12v "battery" power. Meaning always on, not Ig. switched. Agreed. The power tap in that circuit is for operating a scanner, not to charge the battery. As evidenced by the 7.5 amp fuse, the lowest in the whole car IIRC. You Cigarette lighter is not a charge port either. If you want to charge the battery, hook up your charger to the battery.

inspect all your PCV and IAC lines and the intake plenum. Also, make sure the air cleaner above the throttle body is latched correctly. It's downstream of the MAF, and if the tabs at the bottom don't engage all the way it won't seal and you'll have an unmetered air leak.

Yes you will want to have the old wire attached still. There is a split that goes to the ECU to tell it to enrich during cranking. If you totally bypass the original circuit, the ECU will not see 12v during cranking.

The Charge light is also tied into the Ebrake/lowfluid "brake" light which activates the DRLs You alternator has a bad diode. That's why your Charge light is on. Hasn't stopped making voltage but it's on it's way out. Trust me, if it's lighting the Charge light while running it's shot. Because all the red warning lights are tied into hte same power circuit, when the charge light is on, it's backfeeding to the Brake light and that is turning off the DRLs, just like it would if you apply the ebrake.

Soft lines to the power steering resevior leaking?

Don't screw around trying to make double flares. Very tough to get it right. Just buy a length of flexible line. Close to the same length, and bend it around to fit

no. It's hydraulic. Sounds like a failed Master or slave cylinder. I recommend replacing both when this happens.

Man oh man, can I relate. Currently in my yard: I've got 5 xts and xt6s , 2 or 3 of which are just parts cars now. an EA81 parts car. And my wifes 99 Forrester that got rearended (future gambler 500 rig) Not to mention my personal "complete car" projects that the parts are for. EA81 4wd sedan, Lifted EA81 wagon, Bigger lifted t-cased XT, EJ22 FT4wd XT "daily", and a crazy EJ25d 'FWD 80 DL and 2 XT6's slated for paint and restoration (one will be ER27 5spd, stock. Other will be EJ253 and 4.44 auto) Oh and we've got My 98 Forester and My wifes 03' LL Bean H6 wagon. Oh and my 73 dodge 1-ton flatbed, and a 79 International 44' school bus. So yeah.......not sure I'm the best person to ask.