Gloyale

Check these out. http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/650035552.html Those are sweet wheels. B2200 FTW

I see. Well, I will believe you that it works. I knew the pumps were different but admit I was just repeating something read here with regards to the EJ. At any rate, you're right that wouldn't apply to using the whole SPFI on the EJ motor. Some EJs came with SPFI in other regions. But probably not the same sytem as the EA SPFI. Aside from fitting the Throttle body and mounting the injector, I guess you'd have to generate a CAS signal for the ECU. I wonder if there are any bolt in CAS style distys. Possibly later Escorts?

Just wondering, what are were the symptoms and how was it diagnosed?? That is a REALLY surprising failure in a car that new. Just trying to confirm that it is the problem.

That's when the 2.5 was introduced. And as Gary said, the 2.5 equipped cars had the matching ratio. So you're mechnic is going by his interchange book which provides *excact* fit interchange. What we insiders know, is that for Subaru's 4EAT, it's all interchangeable. Subtle differences in shift points and such were adjusted for each combination of Engine and Vehichle. These are determined by the TCU. I.E. an Impreza sedan w/EJ18 and 3.9 gearing will have different shift points than an Outback wagon w/EJ25 and 4.11 gears. But in the real world, any 4eat/TCU combo will work and drive fine.

So, the crunching is when the clutch pedal is depressed? Sounds like the throw out bearing to me. An easy fix with a clutch replacement. If it is making the sound in gear, clutch released, driving, then it would seem more like an internal bearing or gear issue in the trans.

This made me think of something that has not been said. It is VERY important to chase the oilpuimp bolt holes with a bottoming tap before installing the pump. Bolts should be cleaned thoroughly or replaced. And they should all get a dab of blue loctite before being torqued to around 30 in/lbs (not very much, overtightening will strip these bolts quick)

Load of crap. I have a 93 legacy 4EAT in my 89 GL Turbo, running off the GL TCU. No codes. Besides, I don't think a blinking trans code would make you fail engine emmissions. There is no standardized trans code format for manufactures, so how would they regulate it??? I suppose they could test the transmissions tailpipe:lol: But It's BS anyhow. From 88-98 definately, Any 4eat TCU will run any 4eat in any car. Final drive ratio is the only thing to make sure matches.

No they aren't

Here's the hook up http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

Was it ever concluded that the fans were left unplugged??? That right there would be the smoking gun for blaming them. If you're car had not overheated from there mistake, the Headgasket would not have blown at this time.

If you use the hub to repeatedly squish the grease into the bearings, it works pretty good. If you unbolt the control arm bolt and swaybar mount, you can even pull the knuckle out off the axle stub a bit and feed grease in from the back side. Also, at least the outer grease seal can be changed easily with the disc/hub assembly off. The axle has to be removed to replace the inner one.

I think he was having the trouble with the front seats.

He's r4eplaced the seals, and his pump was within spec. I say it's more likely that he actually needs a few new lifters. It happens. Mizpah???Mitzpah???something, Will rebuild you're lifters for something like $3.50 apiece. I definately plan on getting a full new set for this summers EA82t build. Maybe check them out.

It is pretty easy to pull the disc/hub assembly off and shoot some grease in there. Then push the hub back on. Repeat until grease is seen coming out around the inner part of the knuckle. It at least will quite them down till you can get a new set of bearings. But then again, Get a good sized drift punch and replacing them is easy.

This isn't true. The oil return galley are at the very bottom of the head. It actually IS fairly common to see the headgaskets leak externally. It's happened to several of my EA82s. Now what everyone has said about the Cam Case seals is also possible. NWSunni, your Mechanic probably doesn;'t know about those O-rings. I would think he could clearly see the difference in the seems between the head and the cam case. But possibly not. If you're pulling the Cam cases to replace the o-ring you might as well replace the headgasket so it not that big a deal either way. The good news is that other than leaking some oil, the weeping Headgasket won't hurt anything. If you start to getr overheating, big clouds of smoke, water in oil, then things have gotten worse, but that is unlikely. Start saving you're money, and have the engine resealed at some convenient point in the future. Don't worry til then.

No, someone has converted it. A great upgrade. It will run fine if installed properly. Look around at junkyard for 85-94 subaru. GL/DL/Loyales. These are the cars that you're FI system came off of. Get a MAF and the intake tube from one of these cars. (86,87 2wd, or, 88+ all,non turbo, will be the cars that have the correct FI sytem)

The EA82 SPFI system does not run at high enough fuel pressure to satisfy the EJ injectors. You'd have to upgrade to the MPFI pump.

You get what you pay for. By the sound of you're name I give it 6 months. Remeber, it's not a $150 dollar car. It's a car you only spent $150 on:grin: . That means you should feel OK about having to spend more to keep it running. If you don't want to spend money on maintainance and repairs.........Get a bike.

Axles will come off the diff stubs by dropping the diff. I've done it. Obviuosly to entirely remove them you also need to unbolt the 32mm axles nut.

?????? Why would the EA81 be any better than an EA82 for this???

You're belts didn't leave you stranded, you did by not maintaining them. You're entitle to you're opinion. However, The information here is taken at face value by newcomers, and statements bashing EA82s are a disservice to the remarkable durabilty of those engines. I've been driving almost nothing but EA82s for 13 years now, and the ONLY time I've had a timing belt break was on a car I was driving home from purchasing. That's because I replace my belts and do the maintainance. NEVER, has an EA82 made me walk.

To replace the pump, You'd have to remove the transfer extension as well as the diff carrier/bell. The reason being that you have to unbolt the transfer gear from the end of the pinion shaft, in order to slide the pinion shaft out to remove the pump. Waaay easier with the trans removed. It is also possible that the pinion shaft may need to be fitted with proper adjusting shims with the new pump body, or else you're diff may suffer. Probably more cost effective and less risky to get a used trans. Unless you enjoy challenges.

Cool, good to know. I haven't done much mix-n-match with manual trannys yet.

If that where true, we'd all still be drivng Model Ts Less parts does not equal more reliable. Overall design dictates reliability. EA81 and EA82 are basically the same engine, other than the Valve train. The differences represent improvements. Why do you think Timing belts are the norm on almost all modern enigine designs? I have done it in less than an hour. A/C and Power steering equiped car with covers ON. It is really not that hard. And BTW, it's pretty hard to repair anything on the side of the road with no tools:rolleyes:

Idle switch is part of the TPS assembly For SPFI its pins A and B. (top 2 as installed on vehichle) For early (flapper) MPFI it's pins 1 and 2. Pin 3 is the Wide open throttle contact. For later (hotwire) MPFI it's the only 2 wires going to the 3 pin connector on the body of the TPS. Not the pigtail. For all, there should be continuity across the pins at throttle fully closed. Insert a thin feeler .012 inch feeler gauge between the throttle shaft and the stop. There should now be no continuity.