Gloyale

4.11 is a lower gear reduction. He would end up at higher RPMs. He'd need to go the other way. Best for that setup would be a 3.54 rear end from a SVX, or at least 3.7 from a Turbo or Automatic GL.

This is only apllicable to the Manual tranmission models. Because the 3AT uses a Hydraulic clutch pack to transfer, (not gears, that have to mesh), it can be engaged/disengaged at anytime, in turns, at any speed, doesn't matter. And it never gets "stuck" in 4WD from binding. Hydraulic actuation and release. It is the one truely good thing about the 3AT.

Something doesn't sound right there. First, what engine? Original? does it say the car is a Cali car or is it a swap? My guess off the top of my head is that someone has swapped in a Phase 1 2.2 into it, which has a slightly shorter belt than the phase II 2.5 SOHC. If you've for sure you got the right belt, you really don't need the marks. Just line up the Cam notches up, and the notch on the Crank Angle sensor weight(notch is on the tab on crank TB pulley, don't use the arrows)

Realistically the drivetrain should still be fine. Might want to reseal trans however. Rear diff should be fine

Can we sticky that as possibly the best piece of advice on this board ever IMO limited income is the critical part. With enough $ you can overcome the other 2 obstactles.

I think it was just the outback sedan for a while(97?98?). Then badged as SUS, (still an OB sedan though) for 99 and then continued so with the body change in 2000 until 2002? IDK if the "SUS" trim is any different than the regular outback sedans. Kinda reminds me of back when there where "DL" "GL" and "GL-10" XTs(85-86)

+ 1 to just about everything GeneralDisorder said. I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure, as long as it comes up at speed. It's proably a faulty sender. Even if it is very low, The mains in these ussually outlast everything else anyhow. Espescially if it is to be a $350 dollar beater. I'm a bit further south than GD, in the Corvallis area if you need advice or help.

I almost asked if he was trying to invoke the wrath of he who don't speak of. LOL But 91Loyale, I'm sure you've been here longenough to remember him, right?

Huh??? By that logic every subaru before 1990 sucked. EA61,71,81 all had 3 mains. The EA82 is basically the same block! And the EJ isn't really all that different either. At least the EA82 is closed deck:cool: + 1 for EA82T cars being great candidates for EJ swaps. High pressure fuel setup in place already, disc brakes, and 25 spline axles ready to go! I just got my whole donor 94 legacy for my swap! But I want to keep at least one nice EA82T in close to stock condition, for my own personal reasons

And look up all you're parts(except body) for a Wagon. As lot's of parts places have all Subarus of that vintage listed as "1800"s, and often the only distinction is when they ask if it's a 3 door(which they actually mean the hatch, EA81) or a Wagon(EA82) But all the wagons of that year are EA82. That's what, you need are EA82 parts.

No, they were offered all across the USA

Possibly a freeze plug in the head let loose. That will fill the crankcase with coolant. But again, a GD said. Are we talking about an EA82 or EA81? You call it a hatch, but is it actually the "3 door Coupe"?

It might. Drain it and refill to the proper level. Sometime I will add a tad more, if the diff is very noisy. But "WAY" overfilled is bad. A drastically overfull differential could blow out the axle stub seals, or the input shaft seal, either i bad.

Remind you're passenger to hold their handle up too. Or wait for them to close their door first. It is only nessecary to hold the front door handles up. The back you can just lock and shut.

That is a subjective opinion for sure. EA82s have there faults, for sure. But most of the fault lies in people not servicing them right, or abusing them, or some combination of both. There is a reason they made them for 10 years. Cause they are as solid as any other subaru motor if maintained properly. Espescially the non turbo ones. But even the turbo ones are good too. I've read threads and personally seen a proportionally same amount of troubles with EA81T and EJ22T. They just made WAAAAAY more EA82Ts than either of the others, so you hear about more problems. the one big "flaw" I can see with them is the exhaust crack tendancy, which can be avoided with proper cooling. And repaired if needed. I've been TRYING to blow up a EA82T for about 20,000 mile now. With cheap ebay Headgaskets(retorqued after a warm run) Still hangin' on like a pitbull.

Have you tested the O2 sensor? Had it replaced? The sensors fail more often than the Converters.

That is you're hill holder. It can be replaced. It might be possible to find a rebuild kit for it. I've heard here of people doing it, but I would just get a used or new one.

Why do you think the starter is out? Are you getting a "click" when you turn the key? It could be that you have the classic ignition switch fault. The switch won't send enough power through(can't conduct the amps) to the starter solenoid. Try using a remote start switch connected to the solenoid. Or just simply jumper a wire to the solenoid. either way, if the starter then spins, you have a switch issue. This type of failure happens 10 to 1 over actual starter failure with Subarus. I've personally never had to replace an OEM starter. But I've seen more than a dozen ignition switch failures in Subies (and Hondas and Toyotas, which share switch suppliers) My solution is apushbutton starter switch, wired to fused constant 12v. Others use a relay, sometimes in conjunction with a pushbutton. I'd at least investigate the possibility before buying a new starter. You could end up with the same problem with the new starter.

That sounds like float and/or needle valve issues in the bowl.

I pulled a trailer for all my soob stuff. But to move the whole Family, we BOUGHT a truck. It's ugly, 86 GMC 14foot box truck, 6.2 diesel, and lots of rust. Got it for $650, put $150 into battery and a brake caliper and pads. It was way cheaper in the long run, and now we till own the truck. Which is good cause we stayed with family for a month first, then had to move again once we got a place. The truck was like rolling storage. We spent way less than a uhaul would have cost, and got to load and travel at our lesiure. Plus I could still sell it and get some money back.

All the time. I used to work alot with Gina and Bob back in the day, now it' Brian. Ask about the Wisconsin guy, who does all the EA82 stuff, at the part counter and they know me, and my buddy Gemini.

The wiring for the power windows i a seperate harness, with it's own cicuit breaker type fuse. It plugs into the harness under the driver kick panel, but then runs under the carpet/seat to the other side where the main relay and ciruit breaker are. For that much, it's plug and play, if you get the whole harness under from under hte carpet, and from the doors. The locks are a bit more complicated, but I do believe the basic power supply plug is there. but again you need all the lock harness, which will be in the door harness. But in the car IDK for sure if it is already run in the main harness.

TIZ-IGHT I like it. Why no spider intake? Hi Comp?

Change the timing belts or at least have spares and the tools to change it. Change the oil. Check the antifreeze. Get fresh gas. CHECK THE BRAKES. and then go!! I bought a car on Ebay that had sat for 2 years after an engine fire, and drove it home 2100 miles after repairing the fire damage to wiring and engine rubber.

I had one that went bad. Got stuck in low. I thought it was just stuck, being stubborn. I pushed hard, and drove around forward and back this and that. It wouldn't budge. So I pushed on it reeaal hard, and it moved. Something broke and it just was grinding in "neutral", but 4 lo still worked. I Pulled the rear axles and drove like that for a while. Not really an option in Alaska. In retrospect, I think it was the shift collar on the hi/lo gear shift had broken. Hard to fix, and I didn't know what I was doing so much back then (14 years, sheesh) Point is, don't try to force it out of LO. Perhaps the best thing, would be to disconnect the balljoint from the shifter arm on the side of the front diff, driverside. Then try to move the lever back(rearward) to the HI range, Perhaps with the front wheels off the ground. Check the rest of the linkage for any binding before reassembly.