Gloyale

Of the last 4 EA82t engines I'[ve torn down, ALL of them have the BTV cracks. Those are pretty much fine, as long a the valve seats are still in place. 5 of the 8 heads had exhaust crack as well(it's worth mention that a few of these motors ran, pretty well actually, even with the cracks, they don't ALWAYS go through to the waterjacket.)BUT,... I'd say it's pretty damn hard to find uncracked heads used. And new or "rebuilt" heads cost $200-400 dollars, depending on source. In contrast, welding my heads cot me $60 per head. That was at a racing specialist in Wisconsin, buit I'm sure there is somneone in you're neck of the woods. Talk to the local sprint track guys.

Firstly, this doesn't sound that odd. Thee engines, both carbed and fuel injected, are setup to idle pretty high. 3000 rpm doesn't seem too strange, other than the length of time. But still, I'm not sure there is a "problem" here. I've never seen a 2 row radiator from the factory, in ANY EA82. Supposedly, 88-91, AUTOMATIC Turbo EA82s had the 2 core. But I own one of those car, with an original radiator, and it is a single core. Only way I can see to be sure you get a 2 core, is to order a "2 Core".

They can clog I suppose. Other than that, I've never heard of them going bad. I mention running without them, because they just get ommitted during SPFI conversions, or replacing of fuel lines sometimes.

I hate wiring attached directly to the battery. Looks janky, and makes terminal replacement a PITA when they corrode. If you really want to run you're line from that far back, run it out of the fusible link block. Most of them have an empty spot that a spade can be inserted into. Then use a fusible link. this still means running a wire through the firewall. If you don't want to do that, the "easy way" I think, is in the fuse box. If you pull the fuse box down, there are open clips in the back. Now, all the open slots are on the unfused side of the block, so an inline fuse is still needed. But this way the power is still supplied through the Fusible links, so you have some extra protection. And no need to run wires all over the darn car.

I think he mean the Fuel dampner in the supply and return lines. SPFI GL/Loyales have 1 in each line very close to the TB. They are to "smooth out" or prevent spikes in the pressure in the fuel line, and provide a constant presure at the injector. However, many people have removed them without issue.

87 and 89 GLs have 99.9% identical wiring. This statement doesn't make sense to me. I myself usually add a 10G wire to the fuse box by crimping it in to one of the unused spots in the back. But I install it with an inline fuse holder with a 25 AMP fuse. And then run my accesories off that. Beyond that get out a test light.

Maybe it just needed to be shaken down a bit. And a poor Knock sensor connection could casue alot of trouble, epecially if it was making contact, then not, then contacting, then not...... you get it. Keep us informed. And don't take TOO much crap about it from the wife, it's running now ain't it?

Yes, I believe you can. There is a description of how to change the ECU setting to match the vehicle in the FSMs. IIRC in the pre-delivery inspection chapters. I Believe this feature is a "failsafe" provided in case incorrect ECU is installed in vehichle at factory. Can be easily changed by the tech. Unless I am totally misundertanding that chapter. I thought I read about it here as well before.

Alos the O-ring between in the high presure passage of the oil pump. It's between oil pump body and block, plus the rest of the mating surface is sealed with anerobic which can leak too. You should have included this on the timing belt job but oh well:rolleyes: Any leak at the rear is probably the seperator plate and/or rear main Oil pan a a last resort, Anerobic or Grey RTV only, no gasket.

First, the Clutch switch and the nuetral switch are 2 different things. Clutch switch just disable starting. Nuetral switch tells the ECU when the car is in gear for fuel managment reasons. A manual trans ECU will want to see nuetral switch. Without a neutral switch the car may not idle. Basically, if the neutral switch is not "on" the ECU believes the car to be in gear. During this time it will cut fuel to the engine when throttle is fully closed. This is to save fuel and avoid backfiring. Say... costing down hill in gear. The momentum mean no gas i required so none i used. ONLY if you are fully off the throttle however. So if the ECU doesn't know you are in Neutral, it will cut the fuel when you put the clutch in. BUT.... You can wire the neutral switch signal from a button mounted to the Clutch pedal. If you're car is a Loyale, it will have a clutch lockout button mounted there already that can be used. Or scavenge the plunger type button from a brake pedal with cruise or even the brake switch itself IIRC, and mount it on the clutch pedal. There is already a hole. However......you're car has a Auto ECU. The auto ECU doen't look for that signal. I think, that the problem most associated with the neutral switch is using a D/R without one in a loyale, Or using SPFI on an older 4 or 5spd in an originally carbed car. Doing a Auto to manual swap, you shouldn't need it, you're automatic ECU will not be looking for it. However, that said there are ways to trick the ECU, and grounding or ungrounding one pin can convert one ECU to be the other. Either ECU is capable of being the other. It's all been covered here before. But again you don't NEED to. Many have reported doing auto to manual swaps with no problem. You do however need to either permanently defeat the P/N lock out switch, or wire it through a clutch pedal mounted switch like the Loyale manuals

Really, in all relativity, the CTS is an inexpensive part. Bad sensors do happen. That said, often the issue is corrosion or contact, not a failed Sensor.

Because their 5 spds are clunky, prone to grinding, have long throws, and tend to be noisy. When you pay for a top of the line model, it should be refined. Plus, automatics are better able to keep the power to the road in real world driving, espescially in the mud and snow. It's just alot more sophisticated piece of engineering than the manual with a 30 year old gearbox design.

OBD I is a bad label too. Because before the implementation of OBD II standards, there was no standardized "OBD" systems. Every manufacturer equiped there cars with whatever type of dignostic abilities they decided. There would not be a label saying OBD I on you're car, so what the hell is the guy talking about?

Yeah and I think they were carbuerated too! But we never got those here in the states

Do you have a sunroof? The drain for the EA82 sunroofs runs down into that area. If the tubes are disconnected or leaking it could cause this. Just a guess

I have a feeling that it's not very good for the differential bearings to have a DOJ vibrating like that. And vice-Versa, I think worn diff bearings can conmtribute to premature DOJ failure. Although mostly it's just S...ty aftermarket axles.

What about polishing the top of it to mirror shiny finish? I've always wanted to do that to an EA82T with a Spider intake(so you can actaully see some of the block)

My 89 GL Turbo has been flawles since I got it. I've got my freshly machined high comp engine ready to go. I'm just waiting for the old engine to give up. I threw the old enine that's in it toghether using 3 different donors. Original short block with 225k, overheated badly. It caused a engine fire, so all the rubber, wiring, and plastic under the hood was toast. Heads from a rusty old XT turbo engine that had been sitting out in the rain for years. The block was toast. The heads were OK, other than big BTV cracks. Had to tear them down and clean the snot out of the valves and valve seats. Turbo, MAF, harness, and injectors and all other plastic or rubber under hood, from an old GL-10 I scraped I thought it would barely run and limp home. 25k miles and 2 years later it still runs like a champ. Slight piston slap at start-up, a little sluggish until the turbo kicks in(worn rings, low compression), but runs great. I want a reason to install the new engine, but when it runs so good........Why bother?

If you ever get that new bumper, would you sell me the old one? I love that thing. I travel back to K-town a few times a year.

Bump for an update

I haven't heard of single port heads ever cracking in that way? sure it wan't just a blown headgaket? Did you see the cracked heads? Glad it's fixed anyhow. 45 bucks for used heads with no cracks is great. Frankly, I've never seen a used EA82 head without at least 1 BTV crack

Where are the heated leather seats? That was the one thing I though might actually make an old GL pretty pimp?

Just to be sure, you know you can't drive around on pavement with the "c" switch locked. Use it only when you need it and only in slippery stuff. Hopefully you wired it o that it disconnect the wire to C solenoid to get 4WD(switch "off" position). Normally, the switch should stay in the "on" position. I can give you one other recomendation. You have a "power" mode built into you're TCU. It increases transfer pressure(4wd), and holds gears to a higher RPM when in power mode. The way to activate it is to give the gas pedal a quick stab. It's not about how far down you push the pedal, but how fast you push it. If you just roll on to full throttle, you won';t get it. You have to make it quick stab, doesn't even have to be to the floor, just really quick application of some throttle. The POWER light will come on, and it should help a bit. + 1 more for "C lock" switch forcing another worn transfer clutch to keep working!

Illegal in my town, other than maybe changing a tire. Too much chance of fluids draining into the storm drain. I actually called the cops on a guy who was pulling an automatic tran from a ford van in the street, and letting all the ATF drain out onto the ground(he didn't plug the tailshaft) Now if you are reponsible, I really don't see anything wrong with working in the street, but this guy was blantanly NOT. They wrote him a ticket and put down a bunch of drie-sorb to soak it up beofre it washed down the drain. No worries about that in the living room eh?

No, there are not any that I know of. That is why subaru and nearly every other manufacturer uses a resistor block in the ground circuit. Since you have eliminated the engineered solution to this problem Subaru designed, you aren't really asking a subaru question anymore. You may have better luck asking on an electrical forum