Gloyale

If you are having trouble keeping the engine from rotateing while trying to remove the flywheel bolts, you can put 2 bolts into the Pressure plate bolt holes (M8?, use extra bolts, not the ones for the plate as they may bend/get boogered doing this) Then use 2-3 foot long piece of flat steel or angle iron braced against those bolts while you undo the Flywheel bolts. The flywheel bolts should not require an impact wrench. Just a breaker bar will do. One trick is to put the socket and breaker on. Hold the bar firm, with just a bit of CounterClockwise pressure with one hand. With the palm of you're other hand, give the breaker bar a sharp, quick blow. The front crank pulley bolt is 22mm, but if you try holding the crank by the bolt, you may just unbolt the pulley, not the flywheel.

Yeah, I was just saying that Carbed GL-10s exist. You have one so you know:grin: this is what I meant

I use 2 yardsticks. Get under and place the ends of them against the front edge of the rim on the . Mark a line where they overlap, then repeat in the back. Adust until the lines match up front and back. You can assure you are measuring the same point on each rim by taking you're measurments with the sticks pressed up against the underside of the car, in a way that it touches 2 matching points(like the exhaust pipes or the sway bar)

2wd Turbo and all 4wd use the same clutch kit and flywheel. Only 2wd, non-turbo is different. (1 inch dia. smaller disc)

Generally speaking this is a good method. But Subaru actually recommends a different order, bleeding the secondary circuit first, then the primary. I've had good luck with this method 1st, Front left 2nd, rear right 3rd, front right 4th, rear left

Daeron, GL-10 is an interior package and not nessecarilly tied to motor option. In 85 you could get a GL-10 Carbed, MPFI, OR MPFI Turbo. In 86 they where offered in Carbed or Turbo, but the non turbo MPFI was dropped(except XTs) SPFI was available on 2wd ones only, but I assume still offered in GL or GL-10. With that clarified, Subarule, I want to tell you something important about vaccum hoses. Some of the vaccum hoses contain small metal pellets that have tiny holes or *orifice* in them. If you are replacing Vaccum hoses, you must fish out these little plugs and insert them into the new vac hose. They are indicated by 2 little arrows and an *orifice* label on the diagrahms, but it doesn't show what they are actually. there are just a couple, and it's easy to put them in the new hose. Buit if you don't you're vac system will be messed up. *note*: on the diagrahm, There is an *orifice* shown at the T split going into the Anti-afterburn valve(passenger front corner of engine bay. Looks like a very small barbell on end) There is not a pellet in that hose, the blue T connector itself has the smaller opening built into it. All other are pellets in the hose.

I have a feeling you would just have all the oil for the heads pouring out of the lifter sprayer, and basically none(no pressure) getting to the HLAs(lifters, but not) can you say "massive tick of death"

Try turning the wheel hard away from the direction it is locked. It's just tension on that locking pin that is keeping the key from turning. Get the tension off it and turn the key

Tps?

It's one of these 2 Subaru Part #s Either, 8067 30032, 30mmx50mmx9mm(this is the one listed for 4wd) Or, 8067 27040, 27mmx45mmx9mm(this one is listed for automatics and 2wd, non turbo MT) Measur you'res and compare size and that will tell you for sure. Or just order a sela of that size, whether it's "listed" for you're car or not.

If the turbo didn't spin, no air would pass through the MAF, and the Car would not run. The turbo is always spinning. If not, barely any air could pass though it. The specs from Subaru say the Turbo is spinning at about 20,000 rpms at idle, to 120,000rpms + under load Removing the turbo pipe is not a good way to test squat. For the third time this ends up with the car pulling X amount of air through the MAF, but actually running off of a completely different Yamount of air. Also since the AAV is supplied though that tube, you either end up with it open(huge Vac leak) or plugged(no ability to function to control idle). When I mentioned Vaccuum leaks, I was not nessecarilly saying the leak was connected with the removed pipe. I was just saying it seems like a Vac leak is where his problem lies. To test the boost sensor and light, simply pull the tube off and blow into it while someone inside the car watches the light(make sure the key is on) It only takes 1 psi pressure to trip the switch.

After reinstalling the Clutch fan it ran cool even with AC on. My other "air conditioning" burned just fine.

So glad to here you fixed it. I was going to suggest checking the junction where the 2 wires merge. I had a power window problem one time that was because of excactly the same type of corroded connection, where the factory wires are crimped/spliced for junctions. Sounds awesome too, I want to put XT dual tip muffler on my GL.

So I made it. No problems. I did get a CEL for a few minutes here and there. Checked and it was an O2 sensor code. Funny though, it only happened in North Dakota and Montana. NDs gas is full of ethanol, and Montanas gas is 85.5 Octane for the cheap stuff. I figure I'll replace the O2 sensor soon anyhow. I was getting slighlty warmer than I liked(2/3rds) in North Dakota. Although I was using the AC. I stopped in Montana and put the clutch fan and shroud back on the water pump, and it was never above 1/2 after that. Had to drop the 4EAT into 2nd for afew of the steepest mountain passes. cruised up the hills easy though, 45 mph@ 4000 rpm. Deceneding was the hardest part though, a trailer that's 2/3rds the weight of you're car is hard to control when you have to slow down. But the 4 wheel discs did fine. I am amazed this slapped toghether, badly cracked head, overheated bottom end, temporary solution of a motor with 200k+ miles on it is still doing so well. This is 20,000 miles and 4 cross country trips on it since I assembled it out of 3 junk motors.

Taking the turbo pipe off makes the engine do weird stuff because it is not supossed to run like that. The Turbo is still being exhaust driven and pulling air through the MAF. But that air is not going into the engine, the engine is running off of a different amount of air. I would disregard that method and it's aparent data as flawed. You have a vacuum leak somewhere, and it becomes a boost leak under presuure, so that is why you get no turbo light. Hook up you're vacuum lines properly, time it, and then set the idle. Trial and error diagnosis is getting you nowhere.

The ones on right are timing cover bolts. I think some of them may be the ones that hold the inner timing cover on. The bracket looks like the bracket that holds the dipstcik tube? The bolt w/ nut in the center is for the lower most, drivers side Timing cover, and the other bolts of teh same size are for the outer end timing covers. The larger bolt in the center may be for the dipstick, or could be for one of the timing tensioner bolts, which would be bad. I think you are right about the bolts on the left not going to you're car.

Haha, that's nothing. Surface rust.

Do you have a torch? You could heat up the pin red hot, and then pound on it(it will come out then). If you do this you'll probably have to replace the seal around the stub. But that's not that hard to do and relatively cheap. Changing out the stub in the trans is also an option, but a very very labor intensive one. Better almost to just swap the whole trans if you can find a good one.

Buy a 500 dollar truck, abuse and neglect it, and you will be just as unsatisfied if not more than with you're subie.

The cracks between the valves are fine. Don't worry about them. Here is a picture of where you do need to look for cracks, in the exhaust. This pic is taken with the head upside down, looking into the hole the exhaust flange bolts to. Ouch, I just saw you're third picture. That exhaust crack is bad. Having it welded will be cheaper and easier than trying to find an uncracked used head though. Talk to a Machine shop that does race motors and ask if they know an experienced alumnium welder

Sounds like an electrical issue. Perhaps the circuit that controls power to the ignition? Perhaps in the ignition switch itself?

Pins 60 and 61 are should be grounded. They are just grounds for that circuit in the ECU, but they don't actuially provide the ground to the injector. Pins 49,50,51,and 52, are the ones that ground the injectors. Here is another Diagrahm , of just the FI wires.

EA82s only have one O2 sensor

The EGR gas temp sensor is a Cali only thing. Test it to see if its continuity across the 2 terminals is above 250 Ohms. If not get a new sensor. Or put a resistor in it's place between the W/r wire and ground. 300 ohm should do t eliminate the CEL, if it;s lighting. If not I'd ignore the code.