Gloyale

It helps to support the trans from underneath with a jack or blocks. Raise it up an inch or so off the crossmember. There is also a little thin plate that covers the bottom of the bell housing area(I guess for inspecting Flywheel teeth?) but anyway that cover is a PITA sometimes too, bend it downward to make sure it will clear the bottom of the trans bellhousing.

Just tell her to take a look at the chemical make up of blacktop. It's mostly oil anyhow!! If the drive was brand new concrete I could somewhat understand the biatching, but Blacktop!!!! C'mon...

Naaaa... I think it'd be fine if you made the attachments tough. This is how I am gonna setup mine

On Loyales the ECU is bolted to the bottom of the steeering colmn. If you remove the lower dash panel under the column it's visible, and the little light to watch is right in the middle of the ecu tucked into a little sight hole. Once you know where it is you can actually see the light through the gap under the coulmn without removing the panels. But for the first time better to pull the panel. Somewhere on this site is a link to trouble codes. Or you could just post the findings and I or someone else can look in the books for the corresponding code.

OLd thread but I just was lookin through the 86 FSM and found a diagrahm that shows the Knock control unit to be inside the center of the dash on XTs

Just pull the exhaust off and look up into the exhaust port from there. No need to remove the head. If it stops smoking after warm up it could be residual crap in the Catalytic converter. It's common for them to smoke for several days or weeks after a HG change. If it was actually burning coolant the cloud would get thicker after warmup. Drive it for a few weeks, watch the temp, and see if you are actually losing coolant over time. If you are not losing coolant you probably are still burning junk out of the cat.

Better than no skid plate. It would keep you from puncturing the pan. I try NOT to use the skidplate and if you pick a proper line you won't. I just worry about being belly deep in ruts sliding on a mud ridge in the middle, then oops a rock! Making essentially a beefier pan would prevent damage in that case. I'm not talking bout Rubicon style rock crawlin here. Just protection from the occasianal buried rock in the mud or snow.

Well, the "splitting headache" thread from Gravityman in the retrofit forum has pics of the cracks. I've had several heads with the BTV cracks that pressure tested fine. I've seen a few where the crack was big enough to let a little by but still "passed" the test. And Valve "seals" are not the same as Valve "seats". The seal is under the spring on the lifter end of valve. These are viton and usually are replaced during rebuild. They keep oil from pulling past the valve stem into the intake. Valve seats are the hardened, angled, rings that the valve faces close against in the combustion chamber. I don't think it is alway the practice to remove these seats. Ussually they are lapped or ground in place on the head. Fitting new ones requires special presses and in some cases a liquid nitrogen dip to super cool the seat and shink it. Then it's fitted into the head and when it expands it is permanently seated the head. I doubt that the seats were removed. If they had been removed then at that point welding the crack is a snap, and that would be the only real *fix* to the problem. But 1 in deep is fine. Again there is 1 5/8 inches before the crack would hit coolant.

If he was pointing near the bottom of the head at the exhaust port, he could have been talking about the ASV port. And to use a carbed head on SPFI you just need to tap and plug that. Has that been done? Other wise there is no difference at all betwen the Carb and SPFI heads. No part of the radiator or fan bolts to them however, anywhere.

I'd love to but I got no way to bring it to Wisconsin

There aren't any radiator attachment ports. Unless you mean the the radiator hose don't even attach to the heads. Do you mean the exhaust studs? thats the only thing I can think 4 of. Man if this shop thinks those are radiator attachments no wonder there is trouble. As far as MPFI, i suppose it's possible turbo heads could end up on a NA-MPFI(non-turbo) motor. But 98% of those motors are in XTs or have are transplants into GLs or Loyales. Hank what year Subaru do you have?

Turbo heads are all MPFI and all EA82 MPFI motors, turbo or not have dual ports. An SPFI Manifold will not bolt up. If you're car is SPFI there is no way possible that your heads were ever on a turbo. The Noise I discussed in that thread is definately rod knock, I've diagnosed it for sure now and am building a new motor for that car. I am guessing your *&machine gun * noise is the lifters, and that is a relatively benign issue. Glad you found the splitting headaches thread. I am going to do a similar disection of EA82 heads soon. Just waiting to get them back from being hot tanked. Then you guys will see cracks for sure

Uhh. the cracks are in the combustion chamber, The gasket does not touch them. The gasket has big holes over the pistons. The wall that the cracks run through is all solid metal dividing the intake and exhaust ports. The crack has to run very deep before it crosses into a water passage. What are you referring to as a Carb mounting point. The SPFI and Carb heads are identical. SPFI heads don't have holes in the side of the exhaust port for ASV pipes, But otherwise they are the same. Tops off the heads are excactly the same. Turbos are all dual intake port heads so there is no way these came off a turbo. Again, the cracks are in the combustion chamber. They won't have anything to do with the Gaskets. And the valves do not have any oil in them so how could oil get from one valve to the other? That wall is just metal, no passages of any kind until the ports diverge. 1-5/8" deep before hitting coolant This is the Lifters ticking, and is a common thing for subarus. Perhaps resealing the pump would help, but if your oil pressure is high and it only happens occasionally its fine.

That's not the crack I'm reffering to. That is the "Between the Valve" crack. And generally even if they go deep into the head they are still fine. These cracks are on nearly 100% of all EA82 motors and are 99% not a problem. Look in my Photo collection for pics of the exhaust cracks that allow water into the exchaust ports. THOSE are the ones that I've only seen on Turbos.

I don't believe it would be hard to make a skidplate for the 4EAT. Usel a flat piece of 1/4 plate cut to the size of the pan. Then replace 4 of the pans corner bolts with studs. Use a nut on the stud to hold the pan lip. Then put a sleeve over the stud long enough to clear the pan, then bolt the plate onto the studs with the sleeve as a spacer. With the combined thickness of the pan and the plate you would never punch it hard enough to bust through. Espescially if you welded some ribs to it.

Hey, in talking about CTS replacement, it seems there is data and trial to prove that the cheapo MPFI sensor outputs in the same range, and can be used with a simple connector swap on the SPFI motor. (SPFI sensor =$80, MPFI=$20) This is the thread.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75129 If this info needs to be consolidated into more of a "write-up" on the switch I could do it. But I don't have any SPFI sensors to really take pics of both and do a mock swap. But the data is there for it and people have done it.

I was thinking that about tongue weight too. Cut off at the B pillars and use the hood as the new front wall. Slightly angled

The exhauast port is combined so how could there be a crack in just the #1 cylinder?

Theres an arm attached to it held in by on of the blower motor bolts. And There 2 litlte screws on the box. They have little metal clips on the back that they screw into, and those do like to strip. You'll need to get or fashion new clips to get it to screw back on.

Those cracks are always there. It's normal. My first Soob I bought new heads when I found those cracks. $550. Then I found out there an *acceptable flaw*. Since then I've put togheter countless engines with those little "BTV" (Between the Valves) cracks with no problems from it. There is another place where they can crack. Look in the exhaust ports for cracks through the little wall. There a common crack spot there at each end of it. Although I've never seen the exhaust cracks on single port, non-turbo I've never heard of hammering them. That's actually a good idea.

I love mine but you have to be fanatical about the maintainence. Pretty much if you buy a new one tear it down and reseal it with all new belts, hoses, Check the pulleys, replace the thermostat. You never want to have one overheat. I personally have had pretty good luck with the 2 I've owned. You just gotta stay ahead on the maintance. Oh yeah and know the limits. Don't expect to build it into a *raging hot-rod* to quote a no longer with us member.

I can't believe it would be hard to make a skidplate for the 4EAT. Usel a flat piece of 1/4 plate cut to the size of the pan. Then replace 4 of the pans corner bolts with studs. Use a nut on the stud to hold the pan lip. Then put a sleeve over the stud long enough to clear the pan, then bolt the plate onto the studs with the sleeve as a spacer. With the combined thickness of the pan and the plate you would never punch it hard enough to bust through. Espescially if you welded some ribs to it. And once again it seems there is talk about the evils of the Center lock switch but no-one bothers to give details. What do you mean by "killed" the tranny with it. Can anbody tell me what actually happened to there trans and what they were doing for it to happen?

Heres the way the 89 style shoulder belt attaches to the Lap belt Heres the hole it attaches to in the body Here's where there would be a mount on later Loyale style. There are no mounting holes in this 86 at least. Maybe someone else could look at an 88 and see if they are there.

My friend just had an 88 DL totalled by the insurance company. They gave him $2200 for it, but they took the car. In 2001 I got $1900 for my 85 GL after a rear ending. I got to keep the car though. Don't take the first offer. Go online and get an autotrader, prove that there are Soobies out there of higher value and you'll get more.

Don't forget the breaker bar, and a 22 mm socket or you're screwed for doing the Timing belt.