Reveeen

I can't go muddin nemore because I am afraid of breaking the rear shocks clean off Why not repair the shock mounts? Sure seems easier than an engine and assorted swap.

That's a lot of money and a lot of work. I make it a habit of buying junk cars. I can do the work myself, and am semi-retired (semi-retarded?) and have the time and money to "play". I am not going to say: this is not a desirable car But I am going to say: 1) properly "rebuilt" motors do not blow head gaskets 2) I would count on more than a plane heads and re-assemble (probably quite a lot more) 3) with a salvage title it may be a put-together, verify a "turbo" serial number 4) I would suspect a strange combination of motor parts that may, or may not work together. I would try to hold out for a car that has not been messed with, or "improved" to the point that it blows head gaskets. I DO NOT buy cars that kids have owned, or monkeyed with. It is your call, I *think* you made a generous offer, but if you gotta have it, then have at it, the parts are available to put it right, but no one can say what fixing this is going to cost you.

Like anything, this car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, I don't *see* anything "special". It is a old car (1993, new is 2008, it's 15 years old) that has a very sick motor and transmission. If you had a similar car it's worth buying for parts (I have a similar, '91 turbo Legacy, I paid $425 for, with a good motor and transmission, ok interior and body). I *think* you were being generous @ $1000.

Pretty well everything is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

I wonder If heim joints on the radius rod might help to get a bit more flex out of the front end... 1) heim joints work best in front of an axle rather than behind. 2) why use a $100 part when a $5 part will do it's not like we have 12" of suspension travel.

So.............unless you are into fishing expiditions, install it and work it out after.

I didn't hear a rod knock.............plus rod knocks don't pay short visits while an engine runs. What I would do it take a bit of 1/2 inch heater hose, plant one end at my ear, and CAREFULLY move the other end around (not snagging moving components, or getting wound into the fan belt(s)) and try to isolate where the noise is coming from.

The Ford escort should top that list. I always had good luck with them until they started with the Mazda parts. Any ford in the late 70s early 80s You had to be selective, the bad surpassed the good, 427OHC? Boss 351? You do know what Fiat stands for don't you? I had *thought* "fix it again Tony"? How about chevy vegas? The only car I could reliably buy for $50, drive 6 months, then scrap out for $100. The gremlin also made that same list because of how slow it was. I bought one new, drove it home, gave it a 4 speed and a 401 (police motor out of a cop Ambassador), lasted until my brother-in-law stuck it through a stone fence, 12 second quarter spinning over 1/2 the way. has everyone seen the movie Drowning Mona No, both to Mona, and Yugos.............did you guys get Skoda cars? Innoceti?

You have 2 things going against you, on these cars, for a "quick fix". 1)When overheated, (or if the cooling system leaks due to age) folks tend to, again the "quick fix" with the stop leak. Stop leak plugs heater cores, always did, always will. 2)Some vehicles have, what I call, a "down hill heater core". Your Loyale is one of them, where the water pump has to push water up, and over, into the heater core, the return trip is the same thing all over again. Any, well, "stuff" in the cooling system (be it crud, detached deposits, or the afore mentioned stop leak) gets pumped into the heater core, and stays there plugging it up. If it was me, I would try the hose flushing thing that was mentioned, and if you see no improvement, I would consider a new one.

During a search for Murphy's Law (the TV show) I stumbled across this: From Gallway Ireland for your viewing pleasure.............. http://community-2.webtv.net/@HH!3B!01!109A6273ED6D/Babajani1/MurphysLaw/

There is spare 20amp in the box, this will work? Yes................ You almost have to pull the drive shaft to check it. The needle bearings in the U joints take a "set" rather than wear out, because the shaft travel is so limited, there is not really "wear".

Reliant, they are called Reliant cars.

Traditionally the profit margin simply isn't there with a small car. And really, who wants one? There are quite a few Yaris cars here, they seem to come in waves, as in a bunch of folks buy them, burning them out in short order, moving onto something "real", as the dealer waits for the next crop of idiots, oh! sorry, buyers. There are a couple "riced" up too, can't leave those folks out, wanna race me in my Yaris? We have "Smart" cars here, $22,000+. I told the wife I'd look pretty smart attempting a 1200 mile trip in one. Small micro cars are like having small male equipment, maybe ok around home, but don't take it anywhere.

A Subaru, or a Ford, not much choice, unless you are buying a truck.

Whats seals or gaskets are in this general area that could cause this? Valve cover gasket + grommets Rear cam cover (a bolt in plug there is an "O" ring)

It's called following too close and not paying attention. You have the roads out there, you are just lacking the drivers, here, we lack both. At least you are semi-ok, though, if played right, the cards you have been dealt could be turned into "cash for life". I could tell you to get better soon, and mean it, but from someone who has been there, and wakes up each, and every morning, a "hurting unit", let me warn you: DO NOT SIGN OFF.

They are 16 inch tires so your selection of tires is limited. Sadly, for those with anything other than 16" wheels, tires may become a "problem". 16" wheels are the future, all the new 4X4 trucks come with them, I have a large assortment of tires available to me, and the selection is only going to get better as time goes on. We kinda know 13" is dead, 14" soon to follow, 15's have been around a long time, and now 16's will take the lead.

I *think* you will find that your rear wheel wells are "structure", unless you are doing something else for mounting your rear shock/strut (depending on year), the wheel well flexing in "normal" suspension operation is likely what caused the necessity of replacement/fix. Anybody out there using this stuff?

Bond, James Bond, stirred, not shaken. Ok, while we seem to be on the topic of "quick fixes".................... Has anyone had any experience with "body panel bonding" as in "glue"? Product here: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=P14FZGJL4Zgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=5G2DT12RRHbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler quickie instructions here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1756705&Main=1754387 "official" instructions here: http://goodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/gmspo/tech_info/MetalPanelBonding.pdf

I've Never heard any turbo/blower car having boost at idle? If the system is "making boost" where would it go? the boost is usually activated by the gate opening "The gate", or what is called "the waste gate", allows exhaust gas pressure to by-pass the turbo when a pre-set limit is reached. The waste gate is controlled by either a pre-set, or adjustable, diaphragm hooked to the intake manifold for signal working against a spring. They are normally closed until intake manifold pressure overcomes spring pressure (in the diaphragm) forcing it open. I am far from a turbo expert, but to see boost at low RPMs you might want a turbo from a small displacement engine (eg Suzuki), you have to be careful it doesn't "overspeed" (and blow up). The pipe sizes, and length, between the exhaust port, and turbo are critical to both maintain flow, and velocity.

granted the total Power out put of their motors is barely above a N/A motor, the driveability is greatly enhanced to to the good bottom/mid-range TQ increase. Saab is an odd car manufacturer, gone all to crap now, that they are owned by GM. Sadly I *think* you can keep your LPT systems, unless the boost gauge is broken on my 9000, I see 5-7psi at idle, close to 21psi at red line, roughly 300hp, no LPT systems here, or wanted. No sense having a turbo without the "lunge".

If I were to install a restrictor disc in the up pipe to the turbo, can I lower the rpm that the turbo will spool up and start boosting? No, you want a smaller turbo, a restrictor will slow your turbo down, causing less boost at low rpms. Saab LPTs do just that, install a restrictor, causing lower turbo pressures (LPT= low pressure turbo). All kinda moot anyway, your naturally aspirated engine won't last long at pressures greater than 6-8psi. +1 on EJ22(T) swap.

How can I tell an OEM alternator from a replacement? Typically, if a replacement alternator it will have the rebuilders tag on it, usually a sticker, of some sort. I *think* it would be best of you contact your dealer, verify the re-call, and find out where you stand in regard to that re-call. If that is a "go" explain that your alternator is "dead" and to save towing/their labor you would like to wander in with it. It really, in the end, all comes down to the relationship you have with your dealer. Great if you can snag "a free one", but really, 10 years on (1997-2007) could be called "regular wear and tear".

but well worth it!! I sometimes wonder........................ When good old manufacturing names like TRW and Raybestos are stuffing their boxes with Chinese junk can Subaru be far behind?

That car came from just down the road from me Rallye Motors in Moncton NB. I would fix my fuel leak first, because I haven't a clue where it is leaking, but I'm willing to bet it is messing up the way it runs.