archemitis

if its the flapper maf, with the vac. advance, you can swap it out with pretty much any ea82 2 wire distributor. i've seen some turbo distributors with two vac units, so two vac lines going to them, but i dont think you have to have it, because i've used both kinds. but thats with the flapper maf only.

i always just leave the whole passenger side of the harness in one piece and splice the few wires you need at the dash crossover connector. i've wanted to try to cut it down, so it looks nicer, but i always just leave it all together and tuck it away. i guess if you were trying to run the whole harness from the car it would be huge though. do you plan on wiring in your own fuses, and power? if so you only need half of that ten mile tangle.

yar! i always think its funny to see what i wrote years ago.

solid, maybe you could email me the page? that would be awesome

well, that ea82 head on an ea81 thread has got me going in a totaly different direction now, but i figure i have to finish these ea81 heads in the mean time. i got my valves today, and put two cuts on them. one is stock one cut, the other is the double cut one. superflow tells me they have a universal head fixture and it should be on its way.

the date a vehicle was badged as doesnt realy have anything to do with it. i've seen an 85 ea81 wagon. my dad had a 95 s-10 that was the 93 earlier body style. its all about how long it sat around before it was shipped.

have you ever heard of the snow rodeo in minnesota numbchux? morganm has mentioned it to me, but i cant find anything about it.

i always likes vws mechanical fuel injection. just something cool about tweed lines runing all around your engine. i've never had a carb strand me, but efi has screwed me a number of times. i guess if i was driving newer vehicles, the old wires and sensors would not be an issue. but when that stuff is 20+years old...

i need to know valve stem protrusion. spring coil bind, and valve lift(not cam lift) would be nice too. thanks

it looks doable, to a certain extent... 1.rocker arms need to be spaced, differently. the ea82 valves are just a hair further apart than the ea82s. it would put the push rods at a slightly different angle, which wont hurt anything, just slightly different. 2. have somebody cut aluminum pieces to make the pushrod tube passages meet up with the ea81 rocker covers, ea82 boxes wont work because a rocker arm would hit them. pretty much build up aluminum then mill it flat to mate to ea81 rockers. 3.weld up about a 1 inch square for each rocker base to sit on(2 on each head). then mill it flat, and drill for a stud in each one. 4. theres two holes near the exhaust port that will let oil out once the rockers are redone, so you'll have to weld those up. 5. regrind cams. the biggest thing im worried about is if the pushrod tubes closest to the intake port will clear the port without cutting into it basicaly i dont think you could bring a set of heads to a machinist and say make them work, its going to take alot of R&D. i've got the time and the machines right now, so i think i can pull it off, as long as i dont run out of ambition. thats an spfi head, i plan on practicing on that one, then do up a set of mpfi heads to make it all worth the effort. show that airplane guy the pics and see if hes blowin smoke, or maybe hes got a different solution to make them work... more pics later

whats more inportant, why do brats always come with tons of bumper stickers? or subarus in general, every one i've ever bought had a darwin fish, or a jesus fish, along with several political/religious bumper stickers, that brat covers all of them!

whenever i went on a trip with my ea82 i brought an alternator, and timing belts, and pullies, the two things those cars seem to eat. as long as your timing belts are not anywhere close to 50k miles old you should be fine with those. aircraft guys use these motors because they can handle sustained high rpm. i've driven 1300 miles without stoping for anything other than gas.

i hear ya on the lift rocha, if you can find the bolts and steel localy, it wont cost too much. i used chevelle rear shocks, and they were 15 bucks each, 4 inch longer and fit with minimal modifications. just buy the strut tower extensions from SJR, the hundred bucks or so is well worth it, it took me several days, and a few tries to get it right...

what about the ones that had SU carbs, i know they were cable controlled. and carbs will kick efis rump roast any day of the week thanks subiemech85, i was thinking about somwthing like that, but im getting tired of building every piece on my car, and was hoping there was an easy solution i could buy... and i was hoping it was cheap too =]

titanium retainers dont have anything to do with high rpms, unless you have the heavy springs, and titanium valves to match. im pretty sure you belts would catch on fire at 9k. ej22 way easier and cheaper, for more hp than your talking about building. but 10.5 or 11:1 should be doable with the right cam and ignition advance. i forget the exact calculations, but a turbo motor is close to 12:1 runing compression at full boost.

the front suspension is different, different struts,different steering, brakes, driveshaft, front axles different drive shaft, different rear suspension all together... pretty much useless if your looking for runing gear, you need an ea82 for parts. or just stick your motor and transmission in the ea81 body, thats always fun, and super easy.

its funny, you would think a hatch and a brat in similar condition would go for the same price. i even like the hatch more than the brat, but for some reason, if its a brat, its automaticaly $1000 or more above the hatch, or similar ea81 car. i pay 100-300 for hatchbacks in pretty good condition, but have never ran across a brat for under 1500 in rough shape. 7 years ago i bought a brat for 450 and it was on its last leg(minnesota car). basicaly a brat is worth its weight in gold to some people... if you were in my state id tell you 200 bucks and come get it, but im sure its worth a few thousand if theres no bad rust.

hahahaha, i vote for tick of death but seriously, there are alot of aircraft engines that can run on diesel or gasoline, for diesel they turn the ignition system off and let it ping along, but thats avgas, which runs at super high compression. im sure somebody out there has converted a gas ea81 to diesel, even chevy did it with their v8s so i t cant be that hard

the flapper style xt had weights and vac advance. when mine died i replaced it with a carbureted ea82 disty, same stuff. otherwise thats your problem, you have the wrong disty. part number 21 in that diagram hides it all

that engine compartment looks like the opposite of simple skip!

now im getting excited. water jackets all match up, there are already two holes for the two outer pushrods, and there looks like there is just enough room for the two center pushrod holes. heres a pic of the one spot on the block that wont match up, im thinking about machining a square chunk out of the ea82 head and welding in a little aluminum to seal up the oil passage to the head i think id have to run gutted ea82 rocker boxes to seal up the ea81 rocker arms looks like the rocker arms will bolt right on, but i think im going to weld in a chunk of aluminum to give them a wider place to mount, and put in two studs like the ea81 has... this is super sweet, i was hoping they would bolt right on and seal up, but with a little machining, its going to work the ea81 head is real clean, the ea82 head is the dirty one. this must have been an aaftermarket gasket, you can see how two holes in the water jacket were covered up, but its the same jacket on both heads.

it almost works! the ea82 head fits on the ea81, the coolant passages line up, there are two pushrod holes that are still there in the ea82 head, and two that arent, the problem is that the "oil jacket?" doesnt quite match up, i'll post pics in a few minutes, but this has realy got me thinking!

how would i get two carburetors to open at the same time with cables, and not linkages. i've seen old honda motorcycles, where a single throttle cable splits into two, to run two carbs. are there any cars that run like this? 280z maybe? im putting two side drafts into a car and this is a small stumbling block. any ideas?

big valves shouldnt get in the way of bigger cams here, untill they get close to the piston. but to a degree, a bigger valve can act like a bigger cam. the flowbench is pretty cool, but its more or less a tool to get all ports the same flow, for me anyway, pretty much whatever you do will improve flow, untill you start hogging and reshaping ports alot, then it gets hit or miss.