archemitis

er27 into hatch.4 speed dr. front axles removed, rwd. it will do burnouts, and even idle with the tire spining on the ground, with the front emergency brake pulled. seems fine right when i get on the highway, i slip the clutch. it seems fine at lower speeds but at higher speeds(car speed, not engine speed) it starts slippin. i am only able to get up to about 85 then the clutch starts slippin like mad, and i go nowhere. this clutch, and flywheel/pressure plate combo held just fine on my 90 hp motor. never slipped once. now i cant get it to hold for crap. i cant even get a good lauch out of her to tell if shes fast.... help! can anyone think of something i could have screwed up on the cluthc install that may make it slip? other than the cable too tight? could i just have too much hp for this clutch? its almost motor pullin time again =/

oh ya, front emergency brakes and rear wheel drive are a fun combo. the only problem, the second i let out the clutch, i instantly loost traction. im gonna put about 400lbs in the back, and put about 50 miles on tomorrow. more, very good pics to come. =]

yar pricey! id like to see someone do this job for the 200bucks i spent on it. =] i'll start looking at newschool engines, when they get about 15-20 years old.

get the pilot bearing. it presses into your flywheel. if you neglect to buy it, your could have a grinding noise from your transmission area in a few thousand miles. theres one in there, im sure.

hrm. aside from cali. isnt it illegal to put an older motor into a newer car, but legal to put a new motor in an old car? i wonder if i could ever get into trouble for having different motors in cars =/

dont think so but didnt the hydro heads have bigger valves than the solid lifter heads?

i think your going about it wrong. unplug the old pump, and leave the wiring alone. the stock fuel pump in the carbureted car was turned on when the distributor moved. you gotsta have the efi pump relay runing off of your ej computer, not the original relay. the only thing you have to use from the stock system, is the power wire to the coil. use that to turn your computer on and off, with the ignition.

ok, confused ones... the 5 speed has a better crawl ration than the 4 speed dr. the 4 speed dr should be able to handle the same amount of power. as far as my research showed. the gears are the same width, and made out of presumably the same metal 4 or 5 speed. i have a 4 speed hooked to a 6 cylinder. i have floored it quite a bit now, and it shifts smoother than any 5 speed i have ever touched. you dont NEED a dual range, but if your goin offroadin, with bigger tires, dual range is the only option.

most parts stores sell precut lengths of brake line, and a small hand held tubing bender. figure on the length, get one thats close, and start routing it. if you have to much, you can coil it up at the end. morganm, had some rubber lines made for his rears, but that would defeat the purpose of stainless braided lines.

sweet. thanks alot. its cold as crap outside, and crawlin around under a slammed xt6 would suck today =]

what year? i have had alot of luck with just taking the wiring from the motor, to the computer. leave the rest where it unplugs. then you run power to the big red wire =] and find your computer switch wire. there are alot of diagrams floating around here right now.

you either love them or hate them. i like a fairly low mileage hitachi,compared to a brand new weber. tuning issues, fuel delivery issues, parts availability. just my opinion. who has actualy got theirs dialed in just right? even the posts where people got their jetting good, they still seem to complain about one thing or another. bad fuel mineage, bad topend, or lowend power. all kinds of stuff... im currenely screwing with a fairly new one on an ea81, and im thinkin about stickin this reman hitachi on it. whats your opinions?

hrm... so if i use my xt6 backing plates, and xt6 calipers, with a 4 lug disc/hub. that should work out then?

i think it would only be 2 wheel drive. i bet its realy funny when the outside wheel is powering you around a corner.

im pretty familure with the swap, im just wondering. if i can use xt6 rear brake calipers on my 4x ea81 hatch. i have backing plates, and discs from an ea82 turbo, but those calipers are shot. is there a difference between rear xt6 calipers and ea82 rear calipers? or will they interchange?

eeeeewwww. too long. offroad nightmare =]

thats the only thing holding me back. i want to hit the local road corses with it this summer.... lsd, or vlsd. 3.90 or 3.70, awd or rwd..... decisions decisions

hey guys, sorry i had to bail. the girlfriend was apparently starved for attention. and i had alot of crap i had to move. moving sucks! hope to see you all again next time. hopefully i'll have one of the cool subarus there next time =]

ok, tried to drive my er27 powered hatch more than a few miles on friday. got onto the highway, and i thought the clutch was slippin like mad, id feather the throttle, and it would act and sound like a bad clutch. but no smell. cold day, dry roads, 13 inch tires. apparently the one rear wheel was spinning like mad, because i pulled onto some side streets, applied emergency brake. and proceded to do a brake stand! droped the emergency handle. smacked her into second, spinning and smoking the wohle way! so im guessing since i can do big burnouts, its not my clutch slipping. does this make sence? i want to weld it! and leave it rear wheel drive for a while! how bad is that?

ok, i hope everybody that can possibly come, will be there. i dont know what im doin for party tonite, but i realy dont want a hangover tomorrow.

use either a box end, or a rachet and a large hammer! its the poor mans impact wrench. thats how i tighten them too seriously!

i've driven a 300z that had a siezed turbo, it ran, but its a big restriction on the exhaust, and intake sede. that turbo freed up eventualy, and kept onworking after that. i suspected carbon build up from hot shut down.

drove that same hatch alot today, but with a bigass motor. it has no hookup compared to frontwheeldrive. i need some sandbags, or some front axles. all you do is pull ONE or both front axle and engage 4x, then you are rear wheel drive.

you dont need to turbo the er27, you just gotsta put it in something that weighs 1000lbs less! =]

if you realy want a race car, pull the choke shaft out all the way, and use the accelerator pump to enrichen it on start up. =] then the plate and shaft arent in the way.