TheLoyale

*Cough* obviously you have not seen my 4 build threads then...

Where do you buy a Seam sealer product? I will probably just seal it up with bed liner if I put it heavy enough. Good call on Fat mat, I'll look into that.

Removed the Dealer installed A/C. More space. Welded in a patch. 1 of many needed. I think this radiator will make it another 70,000! Little bit of wax brought back the shine (Needs a better waxing though) Front crash bar

Agreed. Do not pull all the wires off the Cap at once swap one wire onto the new cap at a time, make sure you put it on the same terminal ather wise the firing order will be incorrect and backfire (At least there are only 4 wires plus the Coil in the center) try a V-8 Arrg!! :cool:

Haha awesome! What are the odds that someone on here owned that GL!

Black soot could possibly be worn Jets, but I would suspect this to be related to the Cap/Rotor/Plugs if a tune-up has not been done in some time.

Check out the "Art of Subaru Maintenance" videos by MilesFox. Loads of good step by steps.

Harborfreight torque wrenches are pretty good. Whatever you do, DO NOT drop or throw any torque wrench, it will throw off the calibration and will not provide accurate torque readings.

I run EMPIs in my EA82, well built axles and are worth it.

Did not know they unscrewed. Thought it was molded. Fox, helpful info!

Here, this is the $53 EMPI axle which will work for your car. It is 23spline DOJ. 25 spline are for Turbo cars. FWD or 4WD does not matter. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926

You will need a 36mm Axle nut socket (Any auto place or Sears will have it) A Roll pin punch is a lot easier to use then a screw driver or small bolt. When you retorque the axle nut(s) get a breaker bar, and also a length of pipe and then put all your weight on it. The torque is 150lbs, but I run them a little tighter and never have an issue, you'll feel it stop. Get the Jackstands and breaker bar, save your money on the torque wrench, it is not needed. I never use one (Unless I'm doing Head gaskets.)

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

I had the same idea, these are harded steal, but it might loosen it up. Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow since its gonna be 60!

I would like Justys more if they actually sported a Flat style motor...

I would get KYBs GR-2s for replacement shocks/struts. Is that a 4-Runner next to the Chevy Motorhome?

I am not looking forward to the wheel bearing(s) I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out. I will have to pound the entire axle out through the bearing and back in, as I did on the XT6 as I am not going to be able to serparate the Axle from the stub in the knuckle.

I will go to NAPA then and see what they give me. I will also need that pin socket, although I'll just buy once so I have it. I will also need to buy a Driverside front axle as there is no DOJ boot on the one I have. I'm gonna be balls deep into this car before its over...

The EA81 chassis does not have the smugglers hatch like the EA82. But I was planning on coating the EA82 as well, and I think this Rust-oleum stuff would work just fine for that. I used it on my Swing arm for the rear bumper with no issues.

So, I am looking at bearings. Partsgeek offers either Partsmaster or NTN. NTN is a genuine bearing, Timing componenet bearings are NTN for instance. NTN is $70, Partsmaster is $34. Anyone have insight on bearing brands for wheel bearings? The EA81 trailing arm does have the same type of bearings as the EA82 correct? The outer race taps in from behind then the Cone bearings follow. I did it on an XT6 once so I have an idea on the job. Milesfox, insight on bearing brands and such? You're pretty good with that stuff.

Coated the Cargo area with Rust-oleum bedliner (Nice hard shell)

Wow, looks nice once again!

Tom, rough break. That is probably more repairable them my tank though. A Radiator repair should handle that pretty easy, as there is where I took mine for a quote. Jon, Good luck on the car, was a nice day for it! I started with removing all of the hard sound coating which was cracked anyway. Just a hammer and a plain screwdriver did the trick in 15min Down to bare painted surface. After using Rust-oleum Bedliner with brush. I may remove the headliner at some point to check things out (Rattling) probably a cross brace. After coating the cargo area, I am also going to buy something like Duramat sound deadening mat to insulate and dampen sound.

Outbacks are a dime a dozon though, Finding a Factory Clean EA82 is harder and is worth it for those who are into keeping the car until they are in 70. Personally, I paid $500 for my '95 Outback, I also paid $500 for my '92 Loyale, I paid $1,200 for my '83 GL which is the most rotted out of the bunch lol!

Yes, the car is easier to push now I don't think I can take much more out of it.