TheLoyale

I forgot to add one more thing to the list, I need to replace the hood latch assy. At least I got the old one out.

I was looking at a $120 crank pulley for when I had an EJ22, wasn't sure how it would effect the motor and if it would be worth it at all. Good to know it does make some improvment.

Thanks, I will do that.

Found some pics of a '80 Ski wagon once owned by McBrat.

Some Sideways action for a slammed First gen.

The other thing I am looking for is the proper Alt bracket for a Non AC EA81. Mine had Dealer installed AC which I removed, I now want to move the Alt inboard more and shorten the belt. Anybody?

Aussie Leone!

I was looking at engine specs on Wiki, EA71 vs. EA81 - The only different between the two motors (At least Wiki says) is the EA71 has a Stroke of 60mm where as the EA81 has 67mm stroke, both share the same Bore (92mm) Also the Compression ratio dropped in the EA81 to 8.7:1 from the 9.0:1 of the EA71. Is this info correct?

Roger that. Thank you!

Correct, they offer a Topcoat if it is being applied to an UV exposed area. But the issue I see is under the vehicle, kinda peals off. Rust-oleum Bedliner is hard as a rock and does not peal off, perhaps a better product for some apps. Interesting Sale thread for an '84 Ski wagon. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119085&page=3

I still don't understand what the EA81 is, I always though the EA81 was a 1600 motor? The EA82 being a 1800. I find contradicting info throughout the internet. Non-Turbo EA81 1. 1600cc 2. 1800cc Which is it? lol.

This is a good option, I may see about this over POR15 again, as the POR doesn't seem to be holding up all that well, perhaps it was the prep, but I thought I did a fine job on prep work. If I buy the Chassis paint, I will post my results after using it.

Prior to running Yota axles Mick swapped EA82 coils into something, Unless it was not Mick. Either way, Cheers! Hammer and Locking Pliers, all the tools your Subaru will ever need...

Indeed, last clean examples of these cars are either being crushed because it is a 30yr old car OR some teen gets his hands on it, Bajas it cause he thinks its a Rally car and then junks it cause the 30yr old gearbox quit.

I like this idea, as $30 for a Pt. is costly if it does dry out. Although, I think I read somewhere on POR15s site that they could not manufacture the coating in an Aerosol version as the thinners used for Aerosol style paints would destroy the Coatings ability to adhere correctly due to chemical structure breakdown. And POR-15 is to thick to be used in a spray gun, whether its a Gravity fee or not. All I can say is this BLOWS!

Ha! V-10 Brat... Looked like a mini 4-Runner from a distance with the Topper. I like how this Brat is bagged up pretty severely, but has Zero rust...

I want to say McBrat put coilovers under a 2nd gen Brat at some point. Ask his if e knows anything.

So here is an updated, comeplete list of everything I need to do to get this car up and going, and up to my standard of a DD. These are not in any order. List: 1. Clean, Seal and Install rust free Fuel Tank (Once I get it) 2. Replace pretty much all Fuel and Brake lines under the car 3. Attack the Underside surface rust with a Wire wheel and/or Grinding Disc 4. Weld in needed floor patches 5. Coat underside of the chassis Hard Bedliner, Epoxy Paint and Rubberized Undercoating. 6. Coat inside of floor pan with Hard Bedliner 7. Cut out Old Rockers and Replace with Rust free versions, Coat backing of Panels with Hard Bedliner (Once I get them) 8. Drop Rear Trailing Arm tube, Clean up, Seal up, Reinstall 9. Replace Bad Rear Wheel Bearing 10. Replace Bed Front Axle 11. Replace Radiator, Hoses and Thermostat 12. Replace All Brakes and Wheel Cylinders 13. Change All Fuilds, Oil, Diffs, Coolant 14. Reinstall my Interior 15. Replace Gate Window Seal 16. Replace/Redesign Rotted Front Valance/Rad Support 17. Replace Rear Dampers 18. Crank up the tension in the rear and adjust my front springs 19. Replace Every and All Vac lines 20. Clean Engine Bay and Motor 21. Drive it!

I had the idea to use an EA82 rear coilover in place of the Shock on an EA81 car, the main issue is making space for the Coil spring, a Spacer would be needed for the top to move it outward enough. Using a front strut would be harder in the sense of the top hat being very different along with the lower strut mount which pushes into the Hub. As for Making EA82 lights fit in the rear, sure, anything is possible with sheet metal, welding and bondo. Would be interesting to see done! That rust in the rear strut tower looks pretty bad...:-\

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale. Rob, Lol, I just looked at my grill, indeed it is removable! Subaru was thinking ahead for the Tuners of the '00s?

That is possible, I forgot what the Sale ad said, if anything. Its too bad this Brat wasn't taken care of.

I guess we under estimate the Westcoast and their Rust. This is a 1983 Brat out in the PNW and the Rockers are rotted away along with the hood lip. Most of this must have been sitting rust, sitting in a field or something.

I made that mistake about 5 yrs ago on my Loyale, I just covered up the rust with Bondo, as I though that would keep water from getting to it. 2 years later the bondo started pulling away revealing more rust. Needless to say I did it proper last year. RUST is the Enemy! We must eradicate the enemy! Napalm!

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.