TheLoyale

I'm wondering for giggles, if I should see what the dealer can offer for a fuel tank. I'm sure there a supply of these things NOS somewhere, Even if it cost $160, I'd much rather have a new flawless tank to start with. I may go to the dealer tomrrow and see what they say. Perhaps a different Subaru dealer which didn't get me the wrong parts.

Yep, they list it from a 4WD, so I will double check that (Otherwise I'll have to get a BFH to make room for the diff HAH!)

Anyway, I have contacted a Junkyard which listed a used rustless tank for a 4WD '84 GL wagon. We'll see if what they say, and we will also see what this Tank manufacture says. I will also go to Parts Hut tomorrow and see what they can offer, after all, they got me the correct Cap and Rotor. My local parts hut is pretty good with getting obscure parts for old cars. No sense in being a doubting Thomas until all options are exhausted.

If the fuel line didn't start dripping, I could have been driving this car right now. I figured since I need to replace all the lines, I might as well go all out and tear everything out and fix it. I drove this car home, it indeed is a driver. Just not when it starts pissing (I had an '81 320i that did the same thing lol!)

I contacted this company about an '83 style tank, since all they list is '85 and up (Which is sucks, since I don't know if they are listing EA81 or EA82) So we'll see what they say ect. Although, a new Carbed tank is $74 + $24 shipping. That is one hell of a price! I'd pay that in an instance! http://www.tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/301812

Yeah, I've heard from a few people who say its easier to do it with the windshield removed. Mine windshield is flawless and the seal doesn't leak as far as I know, so I ain't gonna touch it right now lol. Its up in the air right now, I may remove it or may not. The reason for removing it is to replace the Fuel lines which run up under the dash and through the Firewall, so its tight :cool: I would appriciate the documents though! Would help me get an idea at what I'm looking at. I am in no rush to remove and reinstall it anyway, the rest of the car is stripped down and undrivable at the moment. -Tom

What the...! Reminds me of a Renault Turbo 5 with the wide rear! Looks really awesome.

This sounds correct with the plastic pieces, I remember seeing those and wondering WTF? Haha.

All they listed were in other states, but I did email one Junkyard they listed with one instock (Supposedly) so waiting on a reply email, and seeing if they will ship. Hoping I can get one somewhere...

Yeah, the rest of the floor is solid.

For those of you who don't check the "Wanted" section. I am looking for a non-rotted 4WD Fuel tank. So if you have one, PM me a picture and I will purchase it ASAP.

Hmm, thats interesting. I will have to look at that aspect of it. Thank you!

Guess I should have stated the Backrest portion is the piece I can get out lol. Yeah the Seat Cusion was easy to remove, 4 12mm bolts and out!

So, still nothing about the rear seat eh? Is this a mystery? :-p

That bad huh? What is the worst part of removing it? A first gen Legacy and EA82 seems fairly easy, what makes this one harder?

How does one remove the rear seat out of an EA81 wagon? I have taken the seat out of my Loyale which was straight forward, but this one, I can not find any bolts for the pivot points. A picture would help. Also is there a Exploded view of the bolting points for the Dashboard? I want to make sure I am looking at the right bolts before I start taken them out for no reason. Cheers and thanks, -Tom

I took up the rubber water barrier on the floor, and started looking for rust, found a few spots, I then proceeded with removing some of the hard chassis coating Subaru applied during manufacture. I am now at this point: I will cut most of the damaged metal away and then weld in a new piece of 18ga.

I would give me left nut to have a 4EAT in my Loyale! Agreed, it would be a shame to scrap this car.

Agreed. Now, how does one remove the rear seat out of these cars? I took the rear seat out of my Loyale and it was straight forward. But I can not find a way to remove the seat from its pivot point, even the wheel well rear plastic panels can not be fully removed unless the seat comes out (There is no split in the plastic to compenstate for the hinge.)

I will check out the site and see what I find. The point is to do it right and not just patch it up, since usually when I buy a car I plan to have it for 10+ years. I could have kept the Legacy for the rest of my life as it was rust free, drop in a 5spd for less technical malfunctions and be good to go.

I'm really digging that rig! I couldn't imagine having a Subaru THAT spotless! As for the Subaru show, Search for WCSS13 and you will find a thread about it and all the prior events.

I would also need to try and seal the rust holes. To do it correctly, would probably cost similar to getting another tank. Cost effective, Non of my vehicles are cost effective lol...

I contacted Wes, the guy parting that White GL. We'll see what he asks for the tank. I may remove the rear suspension, I'm not 100% sure what is what under there, I don't really see any type of Torsion bars. Looks pretty similar to an EA82 trailing arm (They infact will swap) Maybe I should swap an EA82 rear trailing arm on, with rear disc and Coilovers.

Dropped the rear diff and fuel tank out of my '83 GL. Need a new fuel tank! zzzzzz

And Project thickens; Need a new tank, There are pin holes on the upper landing of it, and one of the fittings for the rubber hoses has been broke off. The only thing holding the hose to the tank, was age. Whoopsy! The drain plug came out very easy (And so did all the Mounting Bolts) This car looks worse then it is, I was shocked that all the bolts I removed came out fairly easy. Nicest day we've had all winter, upper 50s and sun! I was outside until 6pm which was awesome.