TheLoyale

In order to remove the axle off the trans stub, you would need to either remove the control arm from the crossmember or pop the BJ out of the hub from the control arm. to be able to swing the entire hub out enough to pull the DOJ off the trans stub. Ben, in order to get enough clearance I would just pop the BJ out of the hub so I could swing the hub out some with the axle DOJ disconnected from the tranny cause then the entire strut/hub assembly will pop down and out enough to get the spacer block up and bolted to the strut top, then just put it all together. The axle shaft will rub on the crossmember where the control arm meets while the car is jacked up (Mine does) but one on the ground you will have enough space where it won't. As for why one side does and the other doesn't I have no clue, maybe it was hit once and somethings a bit off. But with the DOJ disconnected you will be able to swing the axle up more to clear the crossmember so you can put your block in. (I've been there and done it, Lol)

If you were to remove the A/C pump or alt you will see the small rubber hose thats bent like an "L" that connects to the top of the water pump and then goes to the heater core line that runs under the intake manifold. you will have to remove the A/C pump or Alt (Depending if you have A/C or not) and you will then see it. If you were to replace the Waterpump you would need to remove this hose anyway to get the water pump out. -Tom

Looking good Ben! Finally lifting it Are those 14" BFGs!? Must be old huh? As for the waterpump, mine was leaking out of the weep hole and there was no play in the shaft (Go figure) it very well could be that small 2" long hose from the WP to the heater core line like GD said. I had the part number for it (Dunno if I still do) Keep us up to date

What I did today: Thanks to Mick! ALLIANCE Decal!

But you elders are supposed to be kind to us youngens, or something like that right? How about, you pay for the Round Trip - and I take the RX home with me.. I'll shake your hand as I pull away. Deal? Anyway, enough nonsense from me now.

Pictures please!

Cool, that looks pretty wild in there. Gonna give me a ride?

Rough rides are what Subarus were ment for, I like my cars to ride like trucks. Hmm, a Brat Trophy Truck eh... That would be cool with long travel shocks and electric cooling fans ontop!

Those look nifty as ell! Swapped doors for daily driving you drive that thing on the road....!

Whoops, I missed that. C'mon, you could still drive that Looks like a cluster F*** of wires! That would drive me nuts. Lookin' forward to seeing it together.

Wow, did away with the EA82T huh.. How much boost are you running?

Rob, when did you drop a EJ22 in the RX?

Adjusted the tension on my passenger side t-belt (Nice and snug now) Still need to put the Turbo swapbar on! (Just to damn lazy)

Thats really stuffed into that shell. Making good "Photochop" progress

But it wouldn't be running an EJ, nor would it have a Subaru body

Agreed, but it'll be one of the few when its done

Mick, Haha I know about dry rotted tires. Long ago (early/mid 90s) my parents bought a '79 K10 Blazer (350, 4bbl) Anyway, it must have had the stock desert tires that came with it from 1979, we drove all the way to Nebraska on those tires and when we bought the new ones the tire guy said it bearly took any effort to pop the bead - it was sooo soft. Oh and these are the same tires that my folks got the Blazer up on 2 wheels sideways on (quick 40mph turn in 4-lo) after that dad said "I gotta get this thing into 4-hi" that was the day they bought it Lol. Funny stories. Sorry for jacking the thread for a moment. Back on topic, looks like Subarus were once flooding IA. Not anymore eh?

Wow, thats nice. How's the new Forester? Is the Firebird a 400? I still like that '72, its hard to find 4x4 pickups with the 16" wheels around here, everything has 15"s (Some are 4WD) 3/4ton pickups FTW! So when are you gonna sell the red Brat to me?

Everyone always wants to wheel a hatch, so why not a Justy. Looking cool there! Keep it going, I wanna see a video of this thing in action!

You really can't believe everything they say in those repair manuals. As they sometimes are wrong with procedures and torque specs. Chilton is one that I have noticed to be wrong on some things with the older Subarus. Haynes on the other hand seems pretty good (Not great) but good. -Tom

Thats awesome! And god it that thing spotless

Gonna be putting a GL-10 Turbowagon front swaybar on as soon as my new bushings come in! Wow the Turbowagon swaybar it alot bigger in diameter then the stock L-series bar. -Tom

Hey, Oh I hated the top shock bolts when I did the lift. Lots of DeepCreep (Didn't have Yeild then) and lots of heat and back'em out slowly. I bid you good luck with getting the broken studs out, I like the SSRs btw! Cheers -Tom

Its a Justy Halking out! Good be great when its finished...

Try this http://www.mothers.com/02_products/06108.html I always use this on my wagon, works awesome! You can get it at Wal-mart, Farm&Fleet, Checker, CarQuest ect... I've also used this to restore faded window cranks and anything faded on the interior. -Tom