TheLoyale

New Pioneer with USB and MP3/WMA with 4-Runner cubby. Looks factory! And sounds great. Speaker upgrade time... 8 Speakers plus the factory sub. Gonna be spending some money on that.

If you have a junkyard with old Subarus' readily available, then go for it. Although, you may not know the condition of that hub either. But indeed, I did replaced the entire front knuckled on my Legacy after it got hit. I didn't want to press bearings. I bought a used hub for $98 from a "Pull their own" lot. I had my new knuckle in, in about 30min (Even had a decent Balljoint in it)

Ha, you would think. But in the real world, the dealer most likely will over look a lot of things (Not bashing anyone who does work as a Service tech) but we all know there are techs at the dealer who will glance at stuff without deeper inspection, and then the non-mechanically inclined owner doesn't understand why their Subaru with only 58,000 has stalled at the stop light from a failed timing belt due to a seized tensioner bearing.

Ah, indeed things could be pretty worn depending on vehicle service history and treatment. Granted mileage isn't always factor on when and if parts fail, I was just curious.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on your car?

Yep

Also, after install the Cone Washer, there should be a flat washer that goes in front of it, and then the Axle nut. That flat washer only goes one way, as it is not totally flat. They have a slight curvature to them, most have an etching that says "Out" on it, that would face outwards toward you. When you put that washer on, you want it bowing outwards against the Cone washer.

Look for nicks and gouges on the Cone Washer (It should be pretty much smooth) it should also be kinda snug when you push it in (As you tighten the axle nut, it will push the washer in deeper creating more force. I always apply a little grease to the Cone Washer before reinstall. As for getting a new one, the Dealer can get them. Rockauto.com might have them as well. As for Wheel bearings, you can probably do it your self. A shop is gonna cost you a load if you take the car there. Its like $70/hr at most places. I guess you can tap the old and new bearings in. I know when I did it on an XT, there was a lot of pressure applied before the bearing popped loose. I used a 12ton press and a large socket to press it out and in.

Just remember, there are no dumb questions. (only dumb answers lol) Cheers.

Because, its a Twin Turbo. It can do anything Is that a Busa on the back?

Pretty long post, but was a good read. I've actually never heard of this issue until seeing the thread and wondering what you were talking about. I have never driven a Subaru newer then a '01 3.0 Outback Wagon (Which rides like a Cadillac) I can not imagine how the new ones are, they are a totally different breed that is for sure. But I guess having an Automatic which actually gets out of its own way is nice

Any thing new with this car? I hear it sporting a complete exhaust now (Cheery bomb with a tail pipe extending out to the bumper) which is kinda what I was gonna do. Guess I'll have my change for a custom Header and Mid-pipe/Tail on the EA81

How old would you have to go back? Back to the days of Two piece wheels with tubes?

This is what I am going to do when I drill, seems lots more easy them trying to mark it with a sharpie. Thank you for posting the correct degree chamfer I'll need.

I know that rear gate isn't, Lol!

Here are the specs. This is for a Non-tubro car, but its all the same EXCEPT for spline count. Turbo cars have 25spline axles and N/A cars have 23spline. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926 Compressed Length is 27-1/4" Personally, you should not have to show proof that it is the correct part or not to return it. If they will not give you your money back without proof, I would get loud when other customers are in there, cause they will do anything to get you to leave the store, they will refund your money ASAP. I did this for a BMW part at AutoZone once, they gave me a part for a Ford and said it was correct. I got loud, 5min later I have my money back.

Well, after a lot of discussion and actual pictures. I think I am still going with the Trailer wheels (Might even be getting the Wagon style like you said JoAnne) but in 16" with 205/45 rubber. Nice and hard like the Legacy used to be with those Potenzas'. Anyway, here is the Fuel pump and lines leading to it. All lines needs to be replaced and I need to de-rust and refinish the pump mounting bracket.

Just had to wax it this evening, a dude in a Corolla gave me a thumbs up at the petrol station! I think another restoration will need to happen sometime, I need a new rear gate, and two rear door (Rust Free and no dents) Ah, someday. I also changed the oil today, all ready to drive down to IL tomorrow and Saturday!

I had to press the bearings out on an XT MonsterWedge (4cyl) it took a few tons and then it finally popped. As for cost, I like to buy decent bearings. National bearings for the rear of my EA81 was $70 a bearing (But Moog is always expensive)

Doesn't matter if car is in gear or not, a bad bearing will move no matter what (Unless the brakes are clamping it) You want to do a pushing/pulling motion on the wheel, either left to right (As if you are trying to turn the wheel) and or top to bottom. One hand pushing, the other hand pulling. You can also check for Bad tierod ends and Balljoints this way (Do not worry about this at the moment)

Very clean Loyale! Welcome to USMB. As for typical EA82 oil leaking, here is a run down on seals that should be replaced: Cam Carrier Seal (Right behind the Cam pulleys) Crack Seal Valve Cover Seals/Grommets Oil Pump Seal and O-ring (Seal looks like Mickey Mouse head) Possible Cam Tower O-rings Oil Pan needs to be resealed with Fujibond (aka RTV Black) Rear main seal (Possible) Intake gaskets could also use replacing most times Sounds like a lot, but is worth it No matter what, a Subaru will always leak oil lol. If its not leaking oil, you are probably out. Cheers, -Tom

Front wheel bearings will need to be pressed Out and In via 12ton press (Unlike the rear wheel bearings) You will need to remove the entire knuckle, either buy a press from Harbor Freight or take it to a Machine shop, Bumper to Bumper could press the bearings for you. You are looking at about $70 a bearing with 2 $5 seals. GD is correct, I'm sure he's delt with all this stuff more then once as have most of us. If you leave the wheel on, jack it up and try to tug on the wheel, you should get some play if there is a back wheel bearing. No play at all is what you want, as that means you have a Good wheel bearing. As for noises, different bearing styles can make different noises and depending how they are failing can cause different noises as stated. Most times its a Moaning sound, but knocking is also possible.

Very good replies! This is really helpful. Idasho, your wheels appear to have the safety bead as well. So I think I might just stick to my guns and buy the wheels I have in mind the first time. O.C.D, Good links as well, and the wheels are fairly priced further more. Chux, Good to know about the manufactures. McBrat has also told me about the Chevy wheels having to much positive offset, leaving a good few inches of tire gapping out of the well (Plus extreme cutting of fenders would be needed for those as well) as seen on the Mnt Grizz wagon. Toyota does seem to have almost perfect off set for the Subarus, I've seen an EA82 wagon with 15" Toyota Alloys, looked good. As for "Offroad tires" the ski wagon isn't going to get the full on Offroad package like my EA82, I'm thinking 205/45/16s, nice firm sidewall like my Legacy used to have. I can still get a decent tread pattern in 205/45s, good enough for Snow/Mud.

The dimple can only go one way, as the Splines will make it a tooth off it you have it 180* the other way. the roll pin will not pound in then.

If its new, I can't imagine it being "Bad" mine only knocks because EMPI only used Assembly grease in the CVJ with no bearing grease (Plus my rig is lifted and has more stress on the axles) I suppose you could pull the CVJ boot off and check to see if there is any grease in the joint. But you will then need new boot clamps or big heavy duty Zip ties.